The boot
Day 1: Getting there..
So it’s my last part of mainland Italy to explore...... the podiatrist end!
I’ve done my usual research and given myself a potentially gruelling schedule of towns, transport links and times!! However I’m relying heavily on a couple of websites providing the schedules and I am uncertain if I have the correct information. My entry and exit are sorted and a flight to Sicily as I managed not to find any ferry details but then discovered that I can book via italiatren.it and would have been possible!! Ah well!!! Live and learn!
So it starts with an early morning flight from Luton on the day the clocks jump forward!! After a very social night at Luton airport chatting to a variety of people including an Icelandic couple and mother who’s son is an anaesthetist and knows my mate Jakob, I board the 0730 whizz air plane and am asleep before take off! I’m leaving a drizzling grey day and with an hours sleep and couple of hours of planning, arrival is blue skies, 16 degrees and sunny! Welcome to Puglia!
There’s a 45 minute wait for all transport out of airport, so I’ve decided I’ll do the local bus and see a bit of town (you spend the first 20 minutes circling the airport!!). It costs €1.50 and takes 40 minutes on a Sunday at lunch time but gets you to the station area. That’s a couple of English lads on the bus, sound like they study here chatting about adopting a cat and the logistics of getting it back to the uk in the future! It’s background chatter as I enjoy the route, although not the cleanest area!
As i leave the station I wander down the pedestrian street / park area and already I spot him:....
Bari is home to plenty of upmarket shops in the centre, although only cafes and the odd restaurant are open currently (Sunday!). I’m early for my check in but the ability to leave my bag if possible is too attractive so I pop to the hostel to try. It’s closed but the manager / owner is more than happy to let me so I’ll check in later. I give my €10 deposit in exchange for keys and off I trundle in search of tourism and a drink!
I head for the water first, it’s a calm day and the sun is shining. I can feel it warming up, I’ve left the jacket behind. Before long I have the attention of some guy, Lorenzo, with the ‘belissimo’ and in my way ensuring that I stop!! I ensure the introduction is short and explain I am not able to stop as have not any time! He follows me a while and shouts out for me at one point offering me a wine this time. Again I turn him down and walk rapidly along in the opposite direction. He’s not the fittest so I hope!!! Lost him so can slow and enjoy.
I hit a lovely square area with lots of restaurants but as expected those enjoying tables in the sun are full and the shaded are empty. I wish the sun so head on.
Passing churches, basilicas and cathedrals all in a stones throw of each other set up from the narrow winding streets. As the temperature climbs, I’m glad of the cool in parts. I notice many many wee bars with a man hanging around outside, and suddenly realise they’re bouncers of sorts!! I have a spinach pastry slice in one to ward off the stomach growl and head on.
I hit a lovely square area with lots of restaurants but as expected those enjoying tables in the sun are full and the shaded are empty. I wish the sun so head on.
Passing churches, basilicas and cathedrals all in a stones throw of each other set up from the narrow winding streets. As the temperature climbs, I’m glad of the cool in parts. I notice many many wee bars with a man hanging around outside, and suddenly realise they’re bouncers of sorts!! I have a spinach pastry slice in one to ward off the stomach growl and head on.
I pass the castle with it’s chilli art in the moat area and notice a bar in the sun. Bingo!! There’s no view but it’s good enough! The guys speak little English but I can get my coffee order easily and then ask for a local wine, typically they all are, and they offer me a franciacorta , a bubble between a champagne and prosecco. Why not!! To be honest I am not good enough on this taste etc thing to notice a difference, it’s just a prosecco to me!! Handing said that it’s a large white wine in size. The man on the next door table is watching waltzing lessons in English on his phone which is quite distracting!!! It amuses me a bit as he’s not a youngster!! Got to learn sometime I guess!!
I look at the map markings I did before coming here of where to see and I’ve covered most in the 1.5 hours I’ve been here so that’s not too bad!! Think there’s a gelato need!!
It’s Mother’s Day so I’m going to call home while I wander this area, however not long after I start my call I notice I’m being followed again as I leave the cafe, by the waltz guy. After doing a variety of random side streets I’m certain of it so I will avoid stopping and decide to keep moving and head back to the hostel.
It’s chill time intentionally to lose any followers and also to get checked in and double check tomorrow’s plans! I have a wee 20 shut eye and feel ready to head along the shoreline. I have a quick chat to my host before leaving and as the internet is still not working I will check in later officially.
It’s Mother’s Day so I’m going to call home while I wander this area, however not long after I start my call I notice I’m being followed again as I leave the cafe, by the waltz guy. After doing a variety of random side streets I’m certain of it so I will avoid stopping and decide to keep moving and head back to the hostel.
It’s chill time intentionally to lose any followers and also to get checked in and double check tomorrow’s plans! I have a wee 20 shut eye and feel ready to head along the shoreline. I have a quick chat to my host before leaving and as the internet is still not working I will check in later officially.
There is no real beach this direction, west along the shoreline but the water is clean and clear and calm. Many people are enjoying the wander on a sunny Sunday afternoon and the wind is just starting to bring a light chill. The smell of the sea is more noticeable now as I pass the large empty Ferris wheel!
After a time enjoying the short long buildings I head into town and decide to grab my (early) dinner....... so I do a loop back round past the posh shops and onto the square area where earlier I’d found the restaurants. The cafes and ice cream shops are now queued our with locals enjoying their sweet treats and the restaurants are empty, making it a little harder to tell what’s open and not! Sadly the gluten free option is not open to try! I’m in the mood for pasta and find a spagettiary which sounds as good as any to satisfy my need.
I get a seat outside (table 13, I hoe not an omen for the trip!) in the undercover area and not long after 3 guys come in who are also English speaking. Over the 45 minutes I enjoyed my meal there the place went from empty to totally full, one half serving food the other half serving pastries and coffee.
My spaghetti is a local ham, tomato and pecorino cheese option which is lovely and I top it off with a tiramisu and coffee. The tiramisu was presented in a mug and certainly a decent portion!!
After a time enjoying the short long buildings I head into town and decide to grab my (early) dinner....... so I do a loop back round past the posh shops and onto the square area where earlier I’d found the restaurants. The cafes and ice cream shops are now queued our with locals enjoying their sweet treats and the restaurants are empty, making it a little harder to tell what’s open and not! Sadly the gluten free option is not open to try! I’m in the mood for pasta and find a spagettiary which sounds as good as any to satisfy my need.
I get a seat outside (table 13, I hoe not an omen for the trip!) in the undercover area and not long after 3 guys come in who are also English speaking. Over the 45 minutes I enjoyed my meal there the place went from empty to totally full, one half serving food the other half serving pastries and coffee.
My spaghetti is a local ham, tomato and pecorino cheese option which is lovely and I top it off with a tiramisu and coffee. The tiramisu was presented in a mug and certainly a decent portion!!
I head back full and ready to sleep!! The host is in the reception and I check in, she tells me that she’s living there too but hates it and is looking for her own place to escape. She’s had to move someone out of the dorm due to their snoring but now they are in her room so not ideal!
I then head into the kitchen to get some water and meet a Turkish guy who is living in Berlin and arrived yesterday. He’s not really planned anything for his trip and is just enjoying the nice weather etc!! We get chatting about my plans and he asks to join me tomorrow on my early start to Alberobello. I’m happy for him to but he must be ready at 5am!! We agree, and then a Brazilian girl comes to ask if we are going for food. She’s got no English but I can tell her in Italian that I’m good however the Turkish guy will join her....... then a Bosnian girl joins us. She’s also in the dorm. We all have a brief chat then I head to bed. Sadly sleep will not be possible for some time, the Bosnian girl is very chatty, and the beds are very squeaky!! Mmmmm going to try!!
I then head into the kitchen to get some water and meet a Turkish guy who is living in Berlin and arrived yesterday. He’s not really planned anything for his trip and is just enjoying the nice weather etc!! We get chatting about my plans and he asks to join me tomorrow on my early start to Alberobello. I’m happy for him to but he must be ready at 5am!! We agree, and then a Brazilian girl comes to ask if we are going for food. She’s got no English but I can tell her in Italian that I’m good however the Turkish guy will join her....... then a Bosnian girl joins us. She’s also in the dorm. We all have a brief chat then I head to bed. Sadly sleep will not be possible for some time, the Bosnian girl is very chatty, and the beds are very squeaky!! Mmmmm going to try!!
Day 2: to the south....
Plan for the day:
Bari
Alberobello
Locorotondo
Monopoli
Brindisi
Lecce
Leuca
Bari
Alberobello
Locorotondo
Monopoli
Brindisi
Lecce
Leuca
It’s 4:50am and the alarm goes off after a poor sleep. Not used to sharing with people who are wrigglers in squeaky bunk beds!! I grab my bits and head out of the room to shower and change in the bathroom as promised to avoid waking the others. Think it worked as I hear a couple of snore noises as I leave the room!
I’m out the apartment by 5:05, pastry and banana in bag and not joined by my Turkish mate. The deal was 5am or I will continue. He has the options at least if he wants to go later.
It’s empty on the streets (unsurprisingly!) except the man sweeping around his kiosk. The 15 minutes to where the maps tell me is the bus station is straight forward. As I am approaching a guy on his moped slows to ask me something, he’s after a cigarette (another chat up line!?!) and offers me a ride. I’m 100m mad from my destination so politely decline explaining this. He rides off and I’m at the bus in no time. I can’t get the ticket on the bus but the office is open so I head in. There’s a couple of cafes open and a few people around. I didn’t feel in the slightest unsafe wandering to the location behind the train station which is good!
Ticket in hand on I jump, the seats are already semi reclined and it’s warm. WiFi connection doesn’t work but it’s not needed. We’re off as soon as the stragglers arrive slightly later than timetabled (4 minutes!). The sun is rising and it’s a clear view over the flat landscape covered in rows of vines and olive trees. A couple of short stops on the way and we are in Alberobello
I’m out the apartment by 5:05, pastry and banana in bag and not joined by my Turkish mate. The deal was 5am or I will continue. He has the options at least if he wants to go later.
It’s empty on the streets (unsurprisingly!) except the man sweeping around his kiosk. The 15 minutes to where the maps tell me is the bus station is straight forward. As I am approaching a guy on his moped slows to ask me something, he’s after a cigarette (another chat up line!?!) and offers me a ride. I’m 100m mad from my destination so politely decline explaining this. He rides off and I’m at the bus in no time. I can’t get the ticket on the bus but the office is open so I head in. There’s a couple of cafes open and a few people around. I didn’t feel in the slightest unsafe wandering to the location behind the train station which is good!
Ticket in hand on I jump, the seats are already semi reclined and it’s warm. WiFi connection doesn’t work but it’s not needed. We’re off as soon as the stragglers arrive slightly later than timetabled (4 minutes!). The sun is rising and it’s a clear view over the flat landscape covered in rows of vines and olive trees. A couple of short stops on the way and we are in Alberobello
Alberobello:
I head to the coffee shop beside where we’re dropped off and fill my need then up the hill and onto a white square with well manicured trees. From here you look down on the cone shaped roofs of the town centre and the sun is perfectly positioned for highlighting them. I wander through the winding streets enjoying the traditional style. There’s little life here yet but it’s small enough to get around, clean and warming up!
I head to the coffee shop beside where we’re dropped off and fill my need then up the hill and onto a white square with well manicured trees. From here you look down on the cone shaped roofs of the town centre and the sun is perfectly positioned for highlighting them. I wander through the winding streets enjoying the traditional style. There’s little life here yet but it’s small enough to get around, clean and warming up!
Next stop is locorotondo to get a bus to monopoli I hope so now to head back to where the bus dropped me. There’s no sign of a bus stop and no office so as the bus is due at 0725 I’ll sit and hope it comes!! At 0727 one passes so as I can’t see any signs on it I indicate to the driver who stops and nods me in. It’s full of school aged kids, and he doesn’t want me to pay...... so not long before it’s locorotondo and I get off the bus. My intention is to swap onto one going to monopoli however I already see a small problem, I’m getting off in a different location than was indicated on the map, so now I’m not sure if any of the bus stops are going to be reliable..... well I’ve 25 minutes so shall head to centre and come back.
Locorotondo:
It’s a charming small centre with a couple of lovely churches and a great view over the plains. I don’t have time to hang around so keep moving but get some photos. Back to get this bus......
Locorotondo:
It’s a charming small centre with a couple of lovely churches and a great view over the plains. I don’t have time to hang around so keep moving but get some photos. Back to get this bus......
I head to where I’m guessing there’s a bus, and the timetable is hard to read, so that’s not ideal!! I hang around and the bus to Bari arrives but nothing else. It’s 15 minutes after the timetable is found said it should leave so I’m going to head to the train station where originally is seen the start location bus stop. It’s only 5 minute walk.
Sure enough there there is a bus stop but it’s all closed up and so I head into the cafe as there’s a bus outside but no one driving it yet. I recheck my information and find that there’s a bus yo fasano which also is on a timetable in the station door so I shall go there and decide. The bus is due at 0840, 10 minutes.
I check with the driver in the static bus, he’s not the one I want. As time gets closer he asks some ladies over the road and they tell him I think a different location. So if the bus doesn’t come he’ll drop me there. I thank him and at 0845 he tells me to get on the bus. I get the folding seat at the front and we head off. We pass a bus and I get an impression this may have been it as he cursed and waved his hand....... he takes me back.... to my starting point from earlier.
Ok so it’s supposed to be arriving now in it’s destination so rethink. I can head the opposite way to Martina Franco, in 20 minutes so I’ll do that. There’s a group of ladies standing around a spot with no sign but I’m guessing it’s the bus stop so give it a try!! On time a bus rocks up, they all have tickets and the bus driver can’t sell me one!! He lets me on but then shows me where I should have got the ticket, a small tobacconist, so I know now!! It’s a quick trip down the road and I arrive.
Martina Franco:
I’m still trying to get to brindisi direction, and on arrival he shows me where to buy a ticket here and goes! Ok. I look at my options..... and I need still to go to fasano, so back the way I came. I get a wander around this large town centre with its arches and grand buildings and then go buy a ticket to Fasano and wait for the bus.....
Sure enough there there is a bus stop but it’s all closed up and so I head into the cafe as there’s a bus outside but no one driving it yet. I recheck my information and find that there’s a bus yo fasano which also is on a timetable in the station door so I shall go there and decide. The bus is due at 0840, 10 minutes.
I check with the driver in the static bus, he’s not the one I want. As time gets closer he asks some ladies over the road and they tell him I think a different location. So if the bus doesn’t come he’ll drop me there. I thank him and at 0845 he tells me to get on the bus. I get the folding seat at the front and we head off. We pass a bus and I get an impression this may have been it as he cursed and waved his hand....... he takes me back.... to my starting point from earlier.
Ok so it’s supposed to be arriving now in it’s destination so rethink. I can head the opposite way to Martina Franco, in 20 minutes so I’ll do that. There’s a group of ladies standing around a spot with no sign but I’m guessing it’s the bus stop so give it a try!! On time a bus rocks up, they all have tickets and the bus driver can’t sell me one!! He lets me on but then shows me where I should have got the ticket, a small tobacconist, so I know now!! It’s a quick trip down the road and I arrive.
Martina Franco:
I’m still trying to get to brindisi direction, and on arrival he shows me where to buy a ticket here and goes! Ok. I look at my options..... and I need still to go to fasano, so back the way I came. I get a wander around this large town centre with its arches and grand buildings and then go buy a ticket to Fasano and wait for the bus.....
.....it’s the same driver. He’s still as grumpy as before and can’t understand why I went to Martina Franco!! Nor can I but the information at the time was to do that! Ah well. My route is now different and I think I’ll head to brindisi directly rather than Monopoli and Ostuni but let’s see when I arrive!! The driver is muttering and cursing all the way. It’s amusing me!! As we pass through Locorotondo I realise that my internet information on rome2rio is more reliable than the paper information as we’re 1 hour earlier than advertised. There’s a feeling from the greeting of the much chirpier bus driver that he picks up the same old guys and has a but of banter with each as they get in the bus. Papa Franco, papa sidaco etc!!
Fasano
I arrive at Fasano and am directed to the left for the station. However it’s not that simple and is a 3km walk out of town!! It’s a busy wee road through olive tree fields and past plenty of caged dogs!!! My arrival just 2 hours before a train to brindisi so I’m going to Monopoli after all and then will get the train from there. It’s only 10 minute wait and 12 minute ride. €1.1 later and I arrive.
Fasano
I arrive at Fasano and am directed to the left for the station. However it’s not that simple and is a 3km walk out of town!! It’s a busy wee road through olive tree fields and past plenty of caged dogs!!! My arrival just 2 hours before a train to brindisi so I’m going to Monopoli after all and then will get the train from there. It’s only 10 minute wait and 12 minute ride. €1.1 later and I arrive.
Monopoli:
I head into the centre and quickly get very disorientated in the small streets winding around. I’m now relying on google maps to get me out!! It’s not easy taking photos in the narrow streets!!
It’s a nice wee city with a very relaxed feel and wide square when you escape the streets. I’m warm with all the walking and the sun has its hat on again! Back to the station and I contemplate getting the train straight to Lecce, I’m already leaving out Ostuni and will walk that route into the town another time (3km also!!) however my final intended destination has no other transport earlier than the 1816 so I’ll go to brindisi first for lunch. My banana and pastry consumed over the last 20,000 steps!!
I need to check if I have a response about my arrival time from tonight’s accommodation and annoyingly they say that I can not check in after 1900 despite check in on the website being until 2100. Oh that number 13 last night was an omen!! Well there maybe a plan change again!! I email back showing the screen shot from the app. Let’s see!!!
I head into the centre and quickly get very disorientated in the small streets winding around. I’m now relying on google maps to get me out!! It’s not easy taking photos in the narrow streets!!
It’s a nice wee city with a very relaxed feel and wide square when you escape the streets. I’m warm with all the walking and the sun has its hat on again! Back to the station and I contemplate getting the train straight to Lecce, I’m already leaving out Ostuni and will walk that route into the town another time (3km also!!) however my final intended destination has no other transport earlier than the 1816 so I’ll go to brindisi first for lunch. My banana and pastry consumed over the last 20,000 steps!!
I need to check if I have a response about my arrival time from tonight’s accommodation and annoyingly they say that I can not check in after 1900 despite check in on the website being until 2100. Oh that number 13 last night was an omen!! Well there maybe a plan change again!! I email back showing the screen shot from the app. Let’s see!!!
The train to Brindisi is certainly speedy and we pass fields of, again, olives but also solar panels which must be very effective down here!!
Brindisi:
We arrive in Brindisi and it’s like a ghost town!! Not sure what the holiday is but everything is closed and no one around!! It’s got a bigger feel to it than Bari but maybe as it’s empty. Wander to find the sea and some food. Today is pizza day I’ve decided!! Ok, it arrives, and that’s my pizza for the week I think. Gorgonzola and pepperoni, it’s a heavy undertaking which I fail to complete, so pit stop and time to walk it off! I am amused at the people wandering in winter coats and scarfs, while I’ve changed into shorts and my summer tops!! I’m sure I’m amusing them too!!
I’ve covered the distance of the old town so I am going to head back to the station via the other bits I highlighted on my maps.
Brindisi:
We arrive in Brindisi and it’s like a ghost town!! Not sure what the holiday is but everything is closed and no one around!! It’s got a bigger feel to it than Bari but maybe as it’s empty. Wander to find the sea and some food. Today is pizza day I’ve decided!! Ok, it arrives, and that’s my pizza for the week I think. Gorgonzola and pepperoni, it’s a heavy undertaking which I fail to complete, so pit stop and time to walk it off! I am amused at the people wandering in winter coats and scarfs, while I’ve changed into shorts and my summer tops!! I’m sure I’m amusing them too!!
I’ve covered the distance of the old town so I am going to head back to the station via the other bits I highlighted on my maps.
The cheaper train will go at 1515 so perfect time to get it.
I bump into a guy that was on my one here, he asks if I am returning to Bari, I explain I’m going to Lecce. He tells me that he came here for a quick drink on the way back from monopoli, that much I understood, but decided not to ask any more questions!!
Ticket got and off to sit in the sun and wait. The train station is shaded from the on shore breeze so rather nice!! I have a dilemma to consider: I’ve not heard from my hotel tonight to say if they will be there so to take a chance and get stuck or to stay Lecce.......
Lecce:
I arrive in Lecce and immediately I see some information people, great as it’s a holiday I wasn’t sure they’d be any. I pop to ask and the lady explains that there are no buses today and a train in 1 hour can get me within 3.5km of the town to Gagliano but then there are no buses and no taxi as it’s a holiday she thinks. It would arrive at 1900 so I would have to do 3.5km (assuming she’s correct) within 30 minutes or risk getting no bed for the night. Hmmm time to wander and wonder!!
I can’t get my phone data working so I wander off hoping it will improve, and get into the middle of an area looking at the basilica area to establish that I have no idea how to get back!!! Oh it just keeps getting better!!!
I bump into a guy that was on my one here, he asks if I am returning to Bari, I explain I’m going to Lecce. He tells me that he came here for a quick drink on the way back from monopoli, that much I understood, but decided not to ask any more questions!!
Ticket got and off to sit in the sun and wait. The train station is shaded from the on shore breeze so rather nice!! I have a dilemma to consider: I’ve not heard from my hotel tonight to say if they will be there so to take a chance and get stuck or to stay Lecce.......
Lecce:
I arrive in Lecce and immediately I see some information people, great as it’s a holiday I wasn’t sure they’d be any. I pop to ask and the lady explains that there are no buses today and a train in 1 hour can get me within 3.5km of the town to Gagliano but then there are no buses and no taxi as it’s a holiday she thinks. It would arrive at 1900 so I would have to do 3.5km (assuming she’s correct) within 30 minutes or risk getting no bed for the night. Hmmm time to wander and wonder!!
I can’t get my phone data working so I wander off hoping it will improve, and get into the middle of an area looking at the basilica area to establish that I have no idea how to get back!!! Oh it just keeps getting better!!!
Eventually I find a rough route, phone battery dying and I’ve decided to head for Gallipoli and stay there for the night if I can get back on my data......
I switch my phone off and on again (Japanese reset!) and it’s working. I find a room near the station and after my walking today my feet will appreciate that!!
I get an email approval back and am relieved as being a holiday I wasn’t sure it would work!!
Gallipoli:
So arrival in Gallipoli after a slow train ride I wander out into a park area with roads either side....
I call the lady who has the place I’m booked into, and she’s 5 minutes away so no problem. I wander up to look around the Main Street. It’s nice and sun is just setting.
I switch my phone off and on again (Japanese reset!) and it’s working. I find a room near the station and after my walking today my feet will appreciate that!!
I get an email approval back and am relieved as being a holiday I wasn’t sure it would work!!
Gallipoli:
So arrival in Gallipoli after a slow train ride I wander out into a park area with roads either side....
I call the lady who has the place I’m booked into, and she’s 5 minutes away so no problem. I wander up to look around the Main Street. It’s nice and sun is just setting.
No sooner photographed and I’m in my room for the night. Mariû was lovely and the room is small but functional. It’s a fold down bed seatee by the look of it but it’s comfy so I’m happy!!
I head out for another wander and really need fluids. I’ll hit the old town area in the morning as my timetable plan says I don’t need to leave until 1235!
Google maps tells me the supermarket will close soon.... best get there!!
I stock up on water and fruit juice, just what I need to rehydrate.
I go to pay and the guy needs a €0.01 which I know I have. I find it eventually although he’s saying not to worry, I insist, and as a result I give him €0.02 and just to annoy me, he gives me the change. I say no but he’s insisting!! The rest of the queue are laughing as we biccer in semi Italian from me over leaving it behind!!
Eventually I leave it and he laughs as I wander off!!
I head out for another wander and really need fluids. I’ll hit the old town area in the morning as my timetable plan says I don’t need to leave until 1235!
Google maps tells me the supermarket will close soon.... best get there!!
I stock up on water and fruit juice, just what I need to rehydrate.
I go to pay and the guy needs a €0.01 which I know I have. I find it eventually although he’s saying not to worry, I insist, and as a result I give him €0.02 and just to annoy me, he gives me the change. I say no but he’s insisting!! The rest of the queue are laughing as we biccer in semi Italian from me over leaving it behind!!
Eventually I leave it and he laughs as I wander off!!
Actual day outcome:
Bari
Alberobello
Locorotondo
Martina Franco
Fasano
Monopoli
Brindisi
Lecce
Gallipoli
Bari
Alberobello
Locorotondo
Martina Franco
Fasano
Monopoli
Brindisi
Lecce
Gallipoli
Day 3: to Matera ......
Days plan:
Gallipoli
Taranto
Matera
Gallipoli
Taranto
Matera
As check out is not until 10 and Marilû appeared to not be concerned about a time I have a good try at sorting out my trip today and updating the website at last for Myanmar!! It’s a chilled start!
Frustratingly I can not find the information on the buses I found previously for the trip today and seem to go round in impossible circles on trying to get to Matera from this side. The sites I had put on my itinerary are not working and so as the holiday is over I’ll go to a tourist information and check it from there. Bad feeling!!
Showered and packed up again I head off to enjoy the city historical centre. It’s a 5 minute walk and a whatsapp voice message from brenda gives me a positive start!! Then a bit so positive from my sister in law so I call her to see what’s what with my nephew. Reassured I have some research to do, and people to contact to help out I hope I wander lost through more higgledy piggledy streets admiring the carvings and architecture and life in the streets. It’s full of souvenir shops and such so must expect more tourists later in the season. There’s lots of Roman history and I’ll return to absorb more, some bits still not open. Sadly many tourist souvenirs are corals, star fish etc. I am not going to establish if they are real or not, just don’t agree with the concept regardless.
Frustratingly I can not find the information on the buses I found previously for the trip today and seem to go round in impossible circles on trying to get to Matera from this side. The sites I had put on my itinerary are not working and so as the holiday is over I’ll go to a tourist information and check it from there. Bad feeling!!
Showered and packed up again I head off to enjoy the city historical centre. It’s a 5 minute walk and a whatsapp voice message from brenda gives me a positive start!! Then a bit so positive from my sister in law so I call her to see what’s what with my nephew. Reassured I have some research to do, and people to contact to help out I hope I wander lost through more higgledy piggledy streets admiring the carvings and architecture and life in the streets. It’s full of souvenir shops and such so must expect more tourists later in the season. There’s lots of Roman history and I’ll return to absorb more, some bits still not open. Sadly many tourist souvenirs are corals, star fish etc. I am not going to establish if they are real or not, just don’t agree with the concept regardless.
As my heels are a little sore from the 23km it’s claimed I walked yesterday I buy some insoles and then fit them over a coffee! Ah that’s better!! Right time to head for a bus to Taranto.
So it’s not going well!! Not only has there been a holiday but also now I find that the tourist information tells me that my planned buses etc don’t actually exist and I need to change plans. He gives my a ticket to Lecce and then on to Matera, then charges me €40. I pay up but the ticket only costs €30. I question and find that €10 is the agency fees. He’s not explained this. I am not impressed and tell him. I now don’t believe anything he’s told me. Anyway I have a ticket and 1 hour to wait for my train back out!! With a tight schedule I’m not in a place to challenge ur. That’s my daily spend gone!!
I have an hour so a wander round the sea front, there’s plenty of volcanic like rock but the water is chrystal clear waters I just want to jump in. Diving here must be amazing! Next trip!!
I pop into the supermarket and pick up some fruit to see me through my bus journeys today, it’s much less active than I’d expected but I should be in earlier to Matera and so better I guess. It’s ice cream day today!! Was to be salad but that was when I was going to be more active in Taranto!! I pay up in the supermarket...... and my change contains a €0.01 again, it was determined to find me!!’
I head back to the station and sit in the park area outside enjoying the ongoing sun. As time approaches I head in, it’s a rustic and very local station, no electronics except the ticket vending machine so I have no information on the train, platform etc!! There quite a few people hanging around so I’m ok.
At the station and a couple of boys are mucking around. The station master assertively tells them off and they apologise and stop. I wish this would happen in the UK!!
He comes to talk to me and check my destination. I show him the ticket and he directs me to stay here but says it will leave from platform 2. A train duly arrives at the time on my ticket and everyone heads off to the platform. He’s not far from me and another couple who look like tourists too!! He tells us to wait, then indicates for me to come towards him. He then shows me that they will uncouple the trains and I will go to Lecce and one somewhere else. I’m allowed on now and wait....... having found trains so far on time, we leave 10 minutes late!! Back to Lecce I go, and with an hour to get to the bus station / stop. From what I’ve paid and the information that it leaves from outside a hotel I am guessing it’s a nice bus!!!
So it’s not going well!! Not only has there been a holiday but also now I find that the tourist information tells me that my planned buses etc don’t actually exist and I need to change plans. He gives my a ticket to Lecce and then on to Matera, then charges me €40. I pay up but the ticket only costs €30. I question and find that €10 is the agency fees. He’s not explained this. I am not impressed and tell him. I now don’t believe anything he’s told me. Anyway I have a ticket and 1 hour to wait for my train back out!! With a tight schedule I’m not in a place to challenge ur. That’s my daily spend gone!!
I have an hour so a wander round the sea front, there’s plenty of volcanic like rock but the water is chrystal clear waters I just want to jump in. Diving here must be amazing! Next trip!!
I pop into the supermarket and pick up some fruit to see me through my bus journeys today, it’s much less active than I’d expected but I should be in earlier to Matera and so better I guess. It’s ice cream day today!! Was to be salad but that was when I was going to be more active in Taranto!! I pay up in the supermarket...... and my change contains a €0.01 again, it was determined to find me!!’
I head back to the station and sit in the park area outside enjoying the ongoing sun. As time approaches I head in, it’s a rustic and very local station, no electronics except the ticket vending machine so I have no information on the train, platform etc!! There quite a few people hanging around so I’m ok.
At the station and a couple of boys are mucking around. The station master assertively tells them off and they apologise and stop. I wish this would happen in the UK!!
He comes to talk to me and check my destination. I show him the ticket and he directs me to stay here but says it will leave from platform 2. A train duly arrives at the time on my ticket and everyone heads off to the platform. He’s not far from me and another couple who look like tourists too!! He tells us to wait, then indicates for me to come towards him. He then shows me that they will uncouple the trains and I will go to Lecce and one somewhere else. I’m allowed on now and wait....... having found trains so far on time, we leave 10 minutes late!! Back to Lecce I go, and with an hour to get to the bus station / stop. From what I’ve paid and the information that it leaves from outside a hotel I am guessing it’s a nice bus!!!
Lecce (again)
I arrive in Lecce again and my tourist places are closed!! Typical. Well I’ve found the hotel so I am hoping it’s there. I wander through familiar streets then veer off toward the outskirts to the hotel. It’s an opportunity to get some new sights in!
I arrive in Lecce again and my tourist places are closed!! Typical. Well I’ve found the hotel so I am hoping it’s there. I wander through familiar streets then veer off toward the outskirts to the hotel. It’s an opportunity to get some new sights in!
There’s a bus stop in front so looks good. I’ve 20 minutes to wait and another guy is hanging around so fingers crossed. I decide to pop into the hotel and grab a coffee, with the local police all in uniform and adding sambucca to theirs!! I head out with 10minutes to spare and hang around. 1500 comes and goes and nothing appears. Time to google the company..... it’s not letting me in as says site has been hacked. I know what the bus looks like though which helps! 10 minutes late,.... I’m standing staring at a cartoon of Obama and a cake of some sort!! Could be worse!!
I’m starting to think something is wrong, I’m going to wander off, I ask the guy beside of he also is going to Matera and he says no. I wander down to another bus stop further down to see if there are timetables and notice a few buses parked opposite...... oh no...... oh yes, this is a small bus station and yes I should have been waiting here. So another thing set to try me. The lady suggests I take a fast taxi to brindisi And catch it there but that’s going to cost over €50 so I am going to have to wait for the next one at 1700 I guess. I can find no information otherwise of how to escape. I go to buy the ticket and it’s cash only..... of course, so I need to find a bank, oh there’s one opposite, as close as the hotel Tiziano is!!! I go get cash and when I return I ask for the email address for the company. I send them a frustrated email explaining that there is no indication in front of the hotel Tiziano that there is a bus terminal opposite and this is where you wait. It has cost over €63 to get to the European city of culture so it better be good. I email my accommodation to request a code to get in and having sent my passport photo I hope this will let them check me in....... but way the last 3 days are going I fear for the reply. There is a temptation to quit, but there will be a positive for the negative somewhere!!!
The bus arrives and the driver takes my ticket. He’s talking about a 20 minute change to get there and thankfully the hostel have emailed with entry arrangements but want me to appear at 0930 tomorrow morning with my passport and pay...... nightmare, I need to try to change plans tomorrow now and find a way out and along the base....... my previous plans are testing my resilience!!
I’ve got the website updated so far so productive trip. Still struggling to find an option for tomorrow so may just go, they have all my details for a no show so seems the easiest option. They can take credit card payment and they have my passport details. I’ll email and apologise tomorrow. I really want to get these trains!!
We head through Taranto and it’s looking very industrial. The bus station is beside the marina but not attractive, don’t think I missed much here!! Then along to Metaponto, tomorrow destination, and it’s dusk but not much to see! We then head in land and into hills. From here I start to see lights on top of a larger hill. Looking at the map, that must be it. I must be getting off soon!! I think he’s said Salandra! As the bus goes on to Naples i think I’ll be the only person doing this trip!!!
We head through Taranto and it’s looking very industrial. The bus station is beside the marina but not attractive, don’t think I missed much here!! Then along to Metaponto, tomorrow destination, and it’s dusk but not much to see! We then head in land and into hills. From here I start to see lights on top of a larger hill. Looking at the map, that must be it. I must be getting off soon!! I think he’s said Salandra! As the bus goes on to Naples i think I’ll be the only person doing this trip!!!
So I arrive in a random bus stop area and the driver says there’s a 20 minute break and my bus will leave soon. So we all (4 people) get off!! A small bus arrives and a lady gets off. I look at the front and it says Matera in it, yeah must be it, I catch the drivers eye and he says yes then something very fast...... I look confused. The lady talking to him asks which languages I speak, French is an option so she explains that he will leave in a while, is going for food first. Ah I’m ok with that.
I’ve got the website updated so far so productive trip. Still struggling to find an option for tomorrow so may just go, they have all my details for a no show so seems the easiest option. They can take credit card payment and they have my passport details. I’ll email and apologise tomorrow. I really want to get these trains!!
We head through Taranto and it’s looking very industrial. The bus station is beside the marina but not attractive, don’t think I missed much here!! Then along to Metaponto, tomorrow destination, and it’s dusk but not much to see! We then head in land and into hills. From here I start to see lights on top of a larger hill. Looking at the map, that must be it. I must be getting off soon!! I think he’s said Salandra! As the bus goes on to Naples i think I’ll be the only person doing this trip!!!
We head through Taranto and it’s looking very industrial. The bus station is beside the marina but not attractive, don’t think I missed much here!! Then along to Metaponto, tomorrow destination, and it’s dusk but not much to see! We then head in land and into hills. From here I start to see lights on top of a larger hill. Looking at the map, that must be it. I must be getting off soon!! I think he’s said Salandra! As the bus goes on to Naples i think I’ll be the only person doing this trip!!!
So I arrive in a random bus stop area and the driver says there’s a 20 minute break and my bus will leave soon. So we all (4 people) get off!! A small bus arrives and a lady gets off. I look at the front and it says Matera in it, yeah must be it, I catch the drivers eye and he says yes then something very fast...... I look confused. The lady talking to him asks which languages I speak, French is an option so she explains that he will leave in a while, is going for food first. Ah I’m ok with that.
We get chatting and she is travelling by container ship around the world. She’s 67 years old and wanted to travel and has chosen this!! She’s fascinated by my wrap shoes too and the driver returns and she chats to him in Italian about them. I take them off to show how versatile and light but strong they are, he’s more interested in admiring my nail varnish!! He says let’s go and offers me a seat in the front with him. Great! We’re off. It’s not a short journey and he’s so chatty, lots of questions and no English. The previous lady said how lovely he’d been to her and helpful. He’s asking lots of questions which is ok. I can answer most and so conversation is not too strained. He’s been to London but ended up coming to Southend airport which as he says, is not london!! After a while he asks where I am staying. I show him the hostel, in Sassi do Matera. He thinks I need to get another bus after this. He’s going to phone a friend. It’s a fast call and then he says I think, that I am going with him. I look confused and he repeats I accompany him, oh let’s see!!! We arrive and I’m looking at google maps, yes it’s no where near the centre, 4.4km and 1 hour walk. I go to get out and he tells me to wait!! Then finishes his paperwork and we head to his car. It’s an Audi and he’s proud of it!! He asks if I like and of course say yes!!! We head towards centre and he’s asking if I like the town. It’s lovely, clean, white and nicely lit up.
Then he starts saying ‘pronto’ ‘pronto’, I look at him confused. He’s pointing to my side, and I look over as we turn a corner to see an amazing view of the old historical centre. Then he proceeds to take me through passing all the sights and pointing them out! We stop at a church and he asks if I want a photo, I say yes and he’s glad as he would like a cigarette. I photograph, he smokes abd back to find my hostel. We find the street in theory but pass the hostel so, as it’s oneway I offer to walk. He asks a guy in the street to confirm it’s not far and I thank him very much for his kindness and we part.
The hostel is not so easy to find and the street does not exist on google maps but maps.me has it and as my battery starts to take its last breath I find it. Instructions for entry are correct and people are sitting in the reception area. I say good evening and they whisper ‘Ciao’ back!! Oooops. It’s only 2130! I find my bunk bed in a room of 4, 3 other guys, and no one is talking!!! I set myself up for easy departure in the morning, make my bed and get in. Lights are out by 2145, weird!! A few messages from home and it’s nice end to a traumatic day!!!
Then he starts saying ‘pronto’ ‘pronto’, I look at him confused. He’s pointing to my side, and I look over as we turn a corner to see an amazing view of the old historical centre. Then he proceeds to take me through passing all the sights and pointing them out! We stop at a church and he asks if I want a photo, I say yes and he’s glad as he would like a cigarette. I photograph, he smokes abd back to find my hostel. We find the street in theory but pass the hostel so, as it’s oneway I offer to walk. He asks a guy in the street to confirm it’s not far and I thank him very much for his kindness and we part.
The hostel is not so easy to find and the street does not exist on google maps but maps.me has it and as my battery starts to take its last breath I find it. Instructions for entry are correct and people are sitting in the reception area. I say good evening and they whisper ‘Ciao’ back!! Oooops. It’s only 2130! I find my bunk bed in a room of 4, 3 other guys, and no one is talking!!! I set myself up for easy departure in the morning, make my bed and get in. Lights are out by 2145, weird!! A few messages from home and it’s nice end to a traumatic day!!!
Day 3 outcome:
Gallipoli
Lecce
Matera
Gallipoli
Lecce
Matera
Day 4:
Plan:
Matera
Metoponto
Bovalino
Vineyard!!
Matera
Metoponto
Bovalino
Vineyard!!
Matera
So snoring wakens me at 4am and as my bunk mate has just gone to the loo, I guess him too!!! I wait a while but as not stopping I decide to get up and going. I head to a bathroom to pop a little charge on my phone and spare battery as there’s no plugs in our room visible to use, and leave at 5am. It’s a cool morning but present and no wind yet! Strangely the streets are empty!!! The birds are however warming their voices up so sun is not far away!! There’s a road through the middle that I went along in the car last night that appears to be the way to go and easy to follow so I’m heading that way.
As I walk along admiring the lighting on the buildings and the way they are cut into the rocks etc I can hear a river flowing deep in the cavern below.
It’s I’m sure stunning during the day but there’s something special about the lighting too. I know I’ll return on a weekend trip or such so not too stressed about making sure I’ve done lots. I find the view point from last night but the fog has started to set in so it’s not as stunning.
So snoring wakens me at 4am and as my bunk mate has just gone to the loo, I guess him too!!! I wait a while but as not stopping I decide to get up and going. I head to a bathroom to pop a little charge on my phone and spare battery as there’s no plugs in our room visible to use, and leave at 5am. It’s a cool morning but present and no wind yet! Strangely the streets are empty!!! The birds are however warming their voices up so sun is not far away!! There’s a road through the middle that I went along in the car last night that appears to be the way to go and easy to follow so I’m heading that way.
As I walk along admiring the lighting on the buildings and the way they are cut into the rocks etc I can hear a river flowing deep in the cavern below.
It’s I’m sure stunning during the day but there’s something special about the lighting too. I know I’ll return on a weekend trip or such so not too stressed about making sure I’ve done lots. I find the view point from last night but the fog has started to set in so it’s not as stunning.
Should head to the bus station to ensure I get the bus, next option is 12:30 which would leave my arrival at next stop at 2100 which I would rather not do and I have my own room tonight so early bed, after a bit of local wine tasting!!!
It’s not far to the bus station and this time it’s clearly one!! I go ask a driver about the location and he assures me this is correct and I ask to buy the ticket and am directed round the corner to a wee shop which sells me my pass!! Now to wait for the ‘sita’ bus...... the information I have is for 0620 depart but when I check with another driver I think he says it’s half past...... or I hope anyway!!!! Sun is coming up but hidden by clouds. The last driver I asked about my bus has brought out a piece of card with the times of my bus in it. It’s correct to what I was told but as it’s 0625 and it’s still not here there’s little I can do. I think there’s another at 0645 from what he’s written which was not on previous information. Fingers crossed!!
My bottom is cold on the marble stone seat so I’m hoping the bus will arrive soon. Suddenly 4 arrive but only 1 ‘sita’ so I head over but it’s the wrong destination. I go to head off and the driver signals me to come. I let the others go ahead then go to ask but he already knows and tells me it’s the correct bus!! So friendly. Someone must have told him I was waiting I think. The bus is warm and the cloud is hanging in the valley. This would be great cycling area for those I know love hills!!
We are obviously coming to a spot where most get off. The lady at the front shouts ‘Antonio’ down the bus and a guy responds with a ‘grazie’. Maybe he’s been snoozing!! Maps tells me we’re in Bernalda, the lady gets off and shouts nice day to everyone as she leaves.
More depart and then there’s 3 of us, myself, the driver and another who has moved to the front to chat to the driver. We stop at a gas station, oh no it’s 3km our and I may have to walk: but no! Not today! It’s coffee time the driver informs me, and asks me to join them. Lovely, I jump at the chance. He explains this is a normal morning routine as usually only 2 of them and today they have me and hope I was ok with this. Of course I say.
It’s 5 minutes and back on the bus, and off to Metapronto, he drops off the other guy and I go to get off, but no, he’s taking me to the station. It’s not his route but he wants me to arrive safely! So sweet.
I get my ticket for the next part then decide to spend the hour wandering around the city. There’s some Roman ruins around here, like many places down here!! I call home as it’s Wednesday and grab a coffee then head to wait for the bus.
It’s not far to the bus station and this time it’s clearly one!! I go ask a driver about the location and he assures me this is correct and I ask to buy the ticket and am directed round the corner to a wee shop which sells me my pass!! Now to wait for the ‘sita’ bus...... the information I have is for 0620 depart but when I check with another driver I think he says it’s half past...... or I hope anyway!!!! Sun is coming up but hidden by clouds. The last driver I asked about my bus has brought out a piece of card with the times of my bus in it. It’s correct to what I was told but as it’s 0625 and it’s still not here there’s little I can do. I think there’s another at 0645 from what he’s written which was not on previous information. Fingers crossed!!
My bottom is cold on the marble stone seat so I’m hoping the bus will arrive soon. Suddenly 4 arrive but only 1 ‘sita’ so I head over but it’s the wrong destination. I go to head off and the driver signals me to come. I let the others go ahead then go to ask but he already knows and tells me it’s the correct bus!! So friendly. Someone must have told him I was waiting I think. The bus is warm and the cloud is hanging in the valley. This would be great cycling area for those I know love hills!!
We are obviously coming to a spot where most get off. The lady at the front shouts ‘Antonio’ down the bus and a guy responds with a ‘grazie’. Maybe he’s been snoozing!! Maps tells me we’re in Bernalda, the lady gets off and shouts nice day to everyone as she leaves.
More depart and then there’s 3 of us, myself, the driver and another who has moved to the front to chat to the driver. We stop at a gas station, oh no it’s 3km our and I may have to walk: but no! Not today! It’s coffee time the driver informs me, and asks me to join them. Lovely, I jump at the chance. He explains this is a normal morning routine as usually only 2 of them and today they have me and hope I was ok with this. Of course I say.
It’s 5 minutes and back on the bus, and off to Metapronto, he drops off the other guy and I go to get off, but no, he’s taking me to the station. It’s not his route but he wants me to arrive safely! So sweet.
I get my ticket for the next part then decide to spend the hour wandering around the city. There’s some Roman ruins around here, like many places down here!! I call home as it’s Wednesday and grab a coffee then head to wait for the bus.
There’s a few policemen waiting too. The bus is 15 minutes late and the police are straight on to inspect. They only go look through the non-European looking peoples bags and then satisfied, are off again. I’m guessing this maybe a popular place to come on a boat??? I have 10 minutes to get the train so hopefully it’ll make up the time.
We drive along the south coast area to Sibari. There’s sea on my left and mountains or hills to my right. As we close on Sibari I see snow peaks. The map tells me it’s Pollino national park. Looks worth a trip too! I had tried to get into it but couldn’t find buses so it’s a car plan in the future for me
It’s a quick bus to train swap and the train has electric plugs which is a bonus. There’s no time for food but I still have an apple and a kiwi fruit!!
We drive along the south coast area to Sibari. There’s sea on my left and mountains or hills to my right. As we close on Sibari I see snow peaks. The map tells me it’s Pollino national park. Looks worth a trip too! I had tried to get into it but couldn’t find buses so it’s a car plan in the future for me
It’s a quick bus to train swap and the train has electric plugs which is a bonus. There’s no time for food but I still have an apple and a kiwi fruit!!
It’s a lovely trip along stretches of deserted beaches. The route is predominately along the coast but hills and mountains continue all the way along to the inland side.
We arrive in Bovalino and I check, it’s 4.5km to my accommodation and as it’s 1430 everything is closed!! Im going to head on and see what I can get at the place I’m staying.
Bovalino
There’s a lovely path along the beach, and then it stops with no choice of returning onto the main road, so i have to turn back.
On leaving the town there’s very little path and crash barriers to walk along. It’s a bit scary in places so when I find a small shopping centre I decide to head in and grab some food. The only thing open is a cafe which does a panini and coffee so that’ll do!!
I chat with the guy a little who asks where I’m from etc, and then is distracted off to another customer. I can’t finish it all so I pack it up and head on thanking them. It’s a further 20 minutes on and over another bridge with no path so it’s not a nice walk but almost there.
I arrive...... and it’s all locked up..... no sign of any life or any ability to get in.
We arrive in Bovalino and I check, it’s 4.5km to my accommodation and as it’s 1430 everything is closed!! Im going to head on and see what I can get at the place I’m staying.
Bovalino
There’s a lovely path along the beach, and then it stops with no choice of returning onto the main road, so i have to turn back.
On leaving the town there’s very little path and crash barriers to walk along. It’s a bit scary in places so when I find a small shopping centre I decide to head in and grab some food. The only thing open is a cafe which does a panini and coffee so that’ll do!!
I chat with the guy a little who asks where I’m from etc, and then is distracted off to another customer. I can’t finish it all so I pack it up and head on thanking them. It’s a further 20 minutes on and over another bridge with no path so it’s not a nice walk but almost there.
I arrive...... and it’s all locked up..... no sign of any life or any ability to get in.
I try to call the number on the sign, disconnected both lines, then I call the number on the website, also not working so I sit down and decide to call the hotels.com help line. They are great and also can not get a response from the place so I tell them I’m heading to town again and will not be staying there regardless!
So back along the dodgy road!! I pick up water at the supermarket now open and head for the 1740 train to Reggio Calabria. I’ll sort out accommodation on the way!!
I make it with 10 minutes to spare and get my ticket. The train is early and a lovely female driver ensures I’m on the correct train. Plugs available again and that’s good as I’ve used plenty of battery sorting out this disaster!!!
I find a hotel beside the station for tonight at £20 so perfect. I’m ready to collapse!! Good thing is later start tomorrow!! I check the weather...... rain due!!! Hahaha. Typical.
I arrive at the central station just as the guy calls to see when I’m arriving, and so he’s waiting for me at the place (100m from the exit!). The room is perfect single, large kitchen and big bathroom. Happy!! The guy (Bruno) is very nice and helpful between his sort of English and my sort of Italian he gives me ideas for tomorrow and shows me how to used the coffee machine!!
I get through some bits of work and then collapse. Sleep! I’m really close to the train station so shall do historical here before check out. Rain chasing me potentially my trip me speed up!!
So back along the dodgy road!! I pick up water at the supermarket now open and head for the 1740 train to Reggio Calabria. I’ll sort out accommodation on the way!!
I make it with 10 minutes to spare and get my ticket. The train is early and a lovely female driver ensures I’m on the correct train. Plugs available again and that’s good as I’ve used plenty of battery sorting out this disaster!!!
I find a hotel beside the station for tonight at £20 so perfect. I’m ready to collapse!! Good thing is later start tomorrow!! I check the weather...... rain due!!! Hahaha. Typical.
I arrive at the central station just as the guy calls to see when I’m arriving, and so he’s waiting for me at the place (100m from the exit!). The room is perfect single, large kitchen and big bathroom. Happy!! The guy (Bruno) is very nice and helpful between his sort of English and my sort of Italian he gives me ideas for tomorrow and shows me how to used the coffee machine!!
I get through some bits of work and then collapse. Sleep! I’m really close to the train station so shall do historical here before check out. Rain chasing me potentially my trip me speed up!!
Days outcome:
Matera
Metaponto
Bovalino
Reggio Calabria
Matera
Metaponto
Bovalino
Reggio Calabria
Day 5: to Tropea, beach areas
Plan:
Reggio Calabria
Scilla
Bagnara
Rosarno
Tropea
Reggio Calabria
Scilla
Bagnara
Rosarno
Tropea
Reggio Calabria
It’s a comfy bed but people come and go through out the night, I do start to wonder what I’m staying in!!! Up and going at 7:30 packed I make a coffee and head off. It’s a big city but small historical area the map shows me.
Trousers today, it’s to rain! I get outside to find bright sunshine and minimal cloud. First stop is the basilica....... and up to the castle......
I go along corso Giuseppe Garibaldi which in summer must be filled with the enjoyment of food and sun!!
It’s a comfy bed but people come and go through out the night, I do start to wonder what I’m staying in!!! Up and going at 7:30 packed I make a coffee and head off. It’s a big city but small historical area the map shows me.
Trousers today, it’s to rain! I get outside to find bright sunshine and minimal cloud. First stop is the basilica....... and up to the castle......
I go along corso Giuseppe Garibaldi which in summer must be filled with the enjoyment of food and sun!!
Then the large sunny piazza italia with the theatres in i
Villa Zerbi looks really in need of TLC, a historical building from 1860 it would have been impressive once in a seafront position overlooking Sicily. I can’t find much out about it’s current usage, previous websites indicate artistic exhibitions but nothing since 2011!
Coming back along the seafront now, people are out running and again I can see it being filled over summer!! There are various old Roman and Greek ruins to wander past.
Villa Zerbi looks really in need of TLC, a historical building from 1860 it would have been impressive once in a seafront position overlooking Sicily. I can’t find much out about it’s current usage, previous websites indicate artistic exhibitions but nothing since 2011!
Coming back along the seafront now, people are out running and again I can see it being filled over summer!! There are various old Roman and Greek ruins to wander past.
Back to apartment and pick up bag, I can get a train out now or in 2 hours. Let’s keep infront of the potential rain......
On and train in 10 minutes takes me through Reggio seeing the coastal views. Many places 1/2 built. I miss a photo of the one which has someone living in the 5th floor and only skeleton first to 4th floors!! Interesting concept!
Scilla
I arrive quite suddenly in Scilla and I certainly am running from the rain. My sun has gone and it’s windy!! Let’s see. Coffee stop!! Next train to bagnara is in 45 minutes....
I find a coffee stop overlooking the guys putting up beach terraces in preparation of the summer trade. I get a coffee and a brioche, it’s the only option!!! The guy in the cafe thinks I’m Spanish and asks his colleague to serve me as she can speak Spanish. I ask for my coffee and brioche in Italian and the girl comments that he could serve me as I speak Italian. They’re having a good laugh!!
I head outside and meet a Spanish girl, and along with the cafe girl they are intrigued again with my shoes!! We get chatting, she’s meeting her niece and heading to Sicily. It’s starting to rain so I’m thinking I’ll get a train soon!!
On and train in 10 minutes takes me through Reggio seeing the coastal views. Many places 1/2 built. I miss a photo of the one which has someone living in the 5th floor and only skeleton first to 4th floors!! Interesting concept!
Scilla
I arrive quite suddenly in Scilla and I certainly am running from the rain. My sun has gone and it’s windy!! Let’s see. Coffee stop!! Next train to bagnara is in 45 minutes....
I find a coffee stop overlooking the guys putting up beach terraces in preparation of the summer trade. I get a coffee and a brioche, it’s the only option!!! The guy in the cafe thinks I’m Spanish and asks his colleague to serve me as she can speak Spanish. I ask for my coffee and brioche in Italian and the girl comments that he could serve me as I speak Italian. They’re having a good laugh!!
I head outside and meet a Spanish girl, and along with the cafe girl they are intrigued again with my shoes!! We get chatting, she’s meeting her niece and heading to Sicily. It’s starting to rain so I’m thinking I’ll get a train soon!!
I head back having check the station timetable to find a conflict of information:
So as the rain starts and the train does not arrive I’m going to go up to the centre and attempt to see a bit more of town! The rain is heavy and my ‘brollie is not coping with the swirling wind!! There’s no path to the town so have to get wet on the road!! At least me clothes dry fast and skin still waterproof!!
It’s 15 minutes up hill and steps and the view would have been amazing if it wasn’t for rain and clouds!! The centre is charming, small with view points and far side of castle had no beach area.
By the time I get there and wander round it’s time to go back to see if the 1216 arrives!! I get soaked by the puddles on the way back down which I sort of expected!! I can’t get a ticket at the station but on the train is ok the local police at the station tell me.
It’s 15 minutes up hill and steps and the view would have been amazing if it wasn’t for rain and clouds!! The centre is charming, small with view points and far side of castle had no beach area.
By the time I get there and wander round it’s time to go back to see if the 1216 arrives!! I get soaked by the puddles on the way back down which I sort of expected!! I can’t get a ticket at the station but on the train is ok the local police at the station tell me.
Now to Bagnara (10 mins) or straight to where my hotel is in Tropea. It’s 1.5hours away and I can check in at 2......... tempting.
The rain is slowing so think will go Bagnara and quick stop there. If wetter I can get a train (supposedly) 30 minutes later!!
The train arrives and I ask the girl for a ticket. She says something fast in Italian, I reply ok and that’s it, she wanders off!! Oh well let’s see. 1 stop then Bagnara and no more rain yet......
Bagnara
As I step out of the station the rain steps up its game and so I put back up the umbrella, which is happier now there’s no wind, and head for the beach..... I pass a cyclist whom I’d seen on my walk back to the station in Scilla, we say hi and I wander on. Well that’s not worth a visit!! It’s all closed as lunch time of course. I think the main sites are up the hill but I can’t face it in this weather and have only 30 minutes if going to get back for next train. Bonus though the supermarket is still open so I whizz in and pick up some fruit to keep me going!!
The rain is slowing so think will go Bagnara and quick stop there. If wetter I can get a train (supposedly) 30 minutes later!!
The train arrives and I ask the girl for a ticket. She says something fast in Italian, I reply ok and that’s it, she wanders off!! Oh well let’s see. 1 stop then Bagnara and no more rain yet......
Bagnara
As I step out of the station the rain steps up its game and so I put back up the umbrella, which is happier now there’s no wind, and head for the beach..... I pass a cyclist whom I’d seen on my walk back to the station in Scilla, we say hi and I wander on. Well that’s not worth a visit!! It’s all closed as lunch time of course. I think the main sites are up the hill but I can’t face it in this weather and have only 30 minutes if going to get back for next train. Bonus though the supermarket is still open so I whizz in and pick up some fruit to keep me going!!
Back to platform 3 and the train is on time!! I get a recharge of the phone and there is little to see as most of this is tunnels. Shame as I have a curvy seat looking out the window!! It’s only a 20 minute trip I think and the rain is now bouncing off the ground!!
Rosarno
I get to my change stop and there’s 45 minutes to investigate here, it’s not an impressive area to start from, dirty station and feels very unloved in general. Let’s find the square and o look for a restaurant that’s open..... only cafes. All others closed at 1320, as I arrived. Ok. Up the winding hill and steps to the square, it’s like an abandoned city!! Totally silent and deserted! I go look at the view point and it could be stunning, overlooking the farming with hills and coast in the distance. However weather means my imagination is needed!!
Nothing else to do except consume a pear and head back to the station. The train is in 25 minutes so I grab a coffee and seat in the dry for a while!! Catch up time. Then I notice there’s a train at platform 5 and head over. It’s the same girl as earlier on the train and I say hello and check it’s my train. Perfect. Warm and dry!! Back to the same seat!!
Rosarno
I get to my change stop and there’s 45 minutes to investigate here, it’s not an impressive area to start from, dirty station and feels very unloved in general. Let’s find the square and o look for a restaurant that’s open..... only cafes. All others closed at 1320, as I arrived. Ok. Up the winding hill and steps to the square, it’s like an abandoned city!! Totally silent and deserted! I go look at the view point and it could be stunning, overlooking the farming with hills and coast in the distance. However weather means my imagination is needed!!
Nothing else to do except consume a pear and head back to the station. The train is in 25 minutes so I grab a coffee and seat in the dry for a while!! Catch up time. Then I notice there’s a train at platform 5 and head over. It’s the same girl as earlier on the train and I say hello and check it’s my train. Perfect. Warm and dry!! Back to the same seat!!
It’s a 30 minute trip along the ragged coast. Off beaches spring life around them. As we get to Tropea there’s a group getting off.
Think they’re Dutch, and head into town. The rain has reduced and I’m going straight to the hotel to drop my bag and pit stop. No point drying out as not sure the rain stops for long. I read that Tartufo are typical of this area so great excuse for ice cream!!
I check in, it’s the reception girls second day on the job so she’s not sure of the hotel lay out!! I don’t stay long and head off into town while there’s a break in the rain. The reception girl tells me it’s wet tomorrow also so good day for long train journeys. It’s very touristy feeling, old but ready for influx. Restaurants are empty but bars have people escaping the weather!! I wander into the historical square and around the area..... I find an ice cream shop so time to give it a go. Theres a variety of options but I’ll stay classic!! It’s a fair helping. More than I’d expected!!! The lady brings a biscotti out too!! Enough sugar, that will save til later or tomorrow. I’ve learnt to always carry an airport plastic bag for laters options!
Pay up and off I go. Rain still fighting the sun!!
It’s got much potential for a chill out in the sun, if the sun could win, but it’s unlikely. I head to a railing and find just how high up we are, so need to go see from other angle!!
I love the clear water and it’s not too cold when I try it out, just a foot in!!
Heading back through town I decide as it’s about to start raining again, I’m heading back to the hotel.
The girl at reception has my breakfast bag ready, water, juice, toast, chocolate spread and a croissant. Lovely yellow bag also!!
I check out tomorrow’s plans again, seem solid..... here’s hoping!!
Think they’re Dutch, and head into town. The rain has reduced and I’m going straight to the hotel to drop my bag and pit stop. No point drying out as not sure the rain stops for long. I read that Tartufo are typical of this area so great excuse for ice cream!!
I check in, it’s the reception girls second day on the job so she’s not sure of the hotel lay out!! I don’t stay long and head off into town while there’s a break in the rain. The reception girl tells me it’s wet tomorrow also so good day for long train journeys. It’s very touristy feeling, old but ready for influx. Restaurants are empty but bars have people escaping the weather!! I wander into the historical square and around the area..... I find an ice cream shop so time to give it a go. Theres a variety of options but I’ll stay classic!! It’s a fair helping. More than I’d expected!!! The lady brings a biscotti out too!! Enough sugar, that will save til later or tomorrow. I’ve learnt to always carry an airport plastic bag for laters options!
Pay up and off I go. Rain still fighting the sun!!
It’s got much potential for a chill out in the sun, if the sun could win, but it’s unlikely. I head to a railing and find just how high up we are, so need to go see from other angle!!
I love the clear water and it’s not too cold when I try it out, just a foot in!!
Heading back through town I decide as it’s about to start raining again, I’m heading back to the hotel.
The girl at reception has my breakfast bag ready, water, juice, toast, chocolate spread and a croissant. Lovely yellow bag also!!
I check out tomorrow’s plans again, seem solid..... here’s hoping!!
Day 6, up the coast and back to Puglia!
Today is rain again forecast!! Hopefully this is the last of it, but probably now!! Haha.
A quick coffee and as the breakfast is being put out I can grab some ham and cheese too. Then Caio to the reception guy and pay my city tax and off I go up to the station.
A quick coffee and as the breakfast is being put out I can grab some ham and cheese too. Then Caio to the reception guy and pay my city tax and off I go up to the station.
The morning starts sunny as I head up the coast admiring this section of beaches. There are a few as most of the coast line is shear rock front, but those that are have white sandy beaches, some nicely designed. As we head into the hills the clouds are forming and on exiting the train the wind is blowing and the rain looks imminent!! I’m heading to Cosenza for a couple of hours then back to the coast!!
I change at Lamezia, it’s the bottom of the hill area and another cheap flight destination. Not much to offer from the station aspect but decided not to hang around and instead head into the black clouds!!!
I head on the next train and through a long tunnel into the plains, there’s could all around but off bits of sun! Then we stop..... it’s 3km out of town!
I head on the next train and through a long tunnel into the plains, there’s could all around but off bits of sun! Then we stop..... it’s 3km out of town!
Cosenza
Thankfully there’s a bus into town today so I take that. The driver shows me how to purchase the tickets from the machine on the bus! Then I need to show another lady!! We chug out onto the main highway and into the centre. I’m in the hills, unsure if my choice of destination at present!!!
I’ve 1.5 hours but may need a bit to return to the station for the train, so will have to watch the time!! Into centre on the bus takes 20 minutes and I’m dropped opposite Mc Donald’s (the first Ive seem in ages!!) and no idea how to get back!!
I’m sure there will be a tourist info place although may not be open..... but I find it’s located in the Main Street where I was going to head, towards the central rail station which obviously is a very local spot!!!
There are many expensive and trendy shops here and a wide central street which is starting to fill with seating. The rain is holding off and it’s certainly a lovely spot for summer eating and drinking. This is the new town I find out when I find the tourist information booth, and am given a detailed and tourist map of the area. She suggests heading to the station for all buses (orange she tells me) and also train to the other station. Best not miss my train out or I’m not going to make my distant destination.
Here I would return for a night and explore more. Looks like plenty of walking etc possible from here.
I’ve 1.5 hours but may need a bit to return to the station for the train, so will have to watch the time!! Into centre on the bus takes 20 minutes and I’m dropped opposite Mc Donald’s (the first Ive seem in ages!!) and no idea how to get back!!
I’m sure there will be a tourist info place although may not be open..... but I find it’s located in the Main Street where I was going to head, towards the central rail station which obviously is a very local spot!!!
There are many expensive and trendy shops here and a wide central street which is starting to fill with seating. The rain is holding off and it’s certainly a lovely spot for summer eating and drinking. This is the new town I find out when I find the tourist information booth, and am given a detailed and tourist map of the area. She suggests heading to the station for all buses (orange she tells me) and also train to the other station. Best not miss my train out or I’m not going to make my distant destination.
Here I would return for a night and explore more. Looks like plenty of walking etc possible from here.
I arrive at the train station and ask at information. They tell me I need a red bus or take the train. I’ll do the train, at least I know its going only one place!! It’s due in 3 minutes so I’ll just get back. I buy my ticket and wait, and wait, and wait!! There’s another man getting very angry waiting too. He’s back and forth info the ticket lady every 3-5 minutes and comments that it would have been faster to walk. I agree. It’s now 20 minutes late and only 1 per hour max......... I’ve 20 minutes but that’s not good if I need a bus!!! However the train is only 3 minutes down the track. I guess I’m waiting for today’s disaster to occur..... this maybe it!! Frustratingly I could have done the old town too by now. Only small bonus is I think I could still get a taxi!!!
The guy has gone and I go to ask. There’s a problem with the train....... great. No announcements etc. I’ve 15 minutes!! I explain my next train time and she goes to phone. I ask about a bus and it goes too round the area to be on time. She’s not sure if I should wait for the train. Nor am I.... I look outside and no taxis. The guy is back and asks again. It’s broken down at the next stop. Ok. I go ask for a bus and show the guys my train time, they say not possible. I ask for a taxi, they tell me 5 minute walk and maybe able to find out but not good time. I head off but not seeing any I go back to the station. The train arrives 5 minutes later just as I was about to ask for a refund, just as my train is leaving the other station. 3 minutes later I arrive, 5 minutes too late so 1 hour to wait.
The guy has gone and I go to ask. There’s a problem with the train....... great. No announcements etc. I’ve 15 minutes!! I explain my next train time and she goes to phone. I ask about a bus and it goes too round the area to be on time. She’s not sure if I should wait for the train. Nor am I.... I look outside and no taxis. The guy is back and asks again. It’s broken down at the next stop. Ok. I go ask for a bus and show the guys my train time, they say not possible. I ask for a taxi, they tell me 5 minute walk and maybe able to find out but not good time. I head off but not seeing any I go back to the station. The train arrives 5 minutes later just as I was about to ask for a refund, just as my train is leaving the other station. 3 minutes later I arrive, 5 minutes too late so 1 hour to wait.
Train fills up at the next station and then into Paola where I have 30 minutes turn around in-between the rain showers and board the coastal train where I’m intrigued to see this part. We stop a few times and pass through a wee place called Centraro which seems very attractive with large houses positioned on the hill and volcanic black sand beaches.
Paola
We go through various tunnels and follow the rugged coast line up for an hour then head inland as the sun comes through and the heat can be felt. We arrive in the small town of Battipuglia, where I get my final ticket to Foggia via Potenza then head for a wander. It’s a nice little town, lots of bars and restaurants, not much else I can see to admire though.
Battipuglia
I head back to the station, I only had 25 minutes, having got some water and snacks. The train is on time and we head through Eboli, into the hills as the sun continues to throw shadows over the landscape. It’s stunning with hill top towns and wind farms dotted around.
Potenza
The sun is setting slowly as I arrive so the walk up to the centre is a race for me! It’s 1.4km up hill and steps to the centre and maybe I can get a view before the sun sets. The pharmacy tells me it’s 17 degrees!
It’s a steady climb up and when you turn that corner and are hit by more steps it feels like a losing battle. Then the stair case. 4 lots of 28 steps, 2 lots of 25 and 2 of 24. Done in 1 and it’s great view to turn round to, and then I notice the elevator. They have kindly put a water fountain st the top though!!! Well of course no one does them regularly!!
The town centre is starting to get busy with people meeting and a religious ceremony is occurring in one of the squares. It’s again not a huge area to cover and so I can do the majority reasonably effectively and then head back to the station...... downhill!!! Rain starts as i get close but that’s ok, I’ll make it before it gets the better of me this time!!
It’s a steady climb up and when you turn that corner and are hit by more steps it feels like a losing battle. Then the stair case. 4 lots of 28 steps, 2 lots of 25 and 2 of 24. Done in 1 and it’s great view to turn round to, and then I notice the elevator. They have kindly put a water fountain st the top though!!! Well of course no one does them regularly!!
The town centre is starting to get busy with people meeting and a religious ceremony is occurring in one of the squares. It’s again not a huge area to cover and so I can do the majority reasonably effectively and then head back to the station...... downhill!!! Rain starts as i get close but that’s ok, I’ll make it before it gets the better of me this time!!
Foggia
I’m back as the train arrives so I can get on. There’s a few of us but it’s going to be a quiet ride. Sadly another train without plugs, I’ve had a lucky run with them recently that wasn’t going to last, so I need to preserve battery as much as possible. I arrive ...... and it’s 5 minutes early so I should make Hotel by 2230 as promised if I keep up a good pace.
The city is presently busy and warm enough to be outside so some restaurants / cafe have tables ready. I arrive at the spot on the map, and it’s a big government building, so I go ask a lovely man overseeing some light projection thing, he’s not from here, so I ask a group of guys at the coffee shop beside the location and they have never heard of it! I am back in the phone to hotels.com, whom this time are not helpful. I have 5% battery remaining..... and I’m told to phone the property as they are waiting outside for me. I can see no one. When I call the lady with limited English and my limited Italian, I find that in fact the place is 30km from here in a small village and all the website information on location, proximity etc is incorrect. They tell me there are no buses this late and I’m not going that far out by taxi as need to get train tomorrow morning. I phone back hotels.com and get put on hold...... I’ve run all my batteries down now to so need to find a place to charge. I’m passing a Spanish tapas bar, and pop my head in, specifically ask for a charge point and she has one beside the bar, so I connect in and as it’s not an apple product I need to connect through my battery, but at least it’s working, and I’m still on hold... I’m having a beer!! Think i deserve it!! A small beer while I stand rudely at the bar on my charging phone. 35 minutes on hold, and eventually a woman answers and is very unhelpful. She cancelled my accommodation but wants to phone them..... on hold again for 15 minutes, it’s now 1145pm........ she comes back on the phone and was going to leave it at that. I’m not happy, as I’m on the phone it’ll not let me get data so I can’t look for hotels and it’s poor reception area so I say o would like the alternatives, she starts suggesting my options........she’s got a couple of apartments I can book and that'll do my requirements, I point out again that it’s now midnight and unless there’s a 24 hour reception it’s unlikely I’ll get in. She then disappears for 10 minutes and I get cut off!!! As I call back I ask the girl serving what time they close. She says 3, so at least it’s warm for a few hours yet. I have to go through all the details again. This guys is more attentive but not helpful however understands that it’s now after midnight and he’s going to try a couple of hotels in the area, at 1220am he can not establish if anyone has any options for me, as he couldn’t understand them! I ask him what he suggests I do, he has no ideas for me except walk around trying to find somewhere. I re-explain that I am a single female in a strange city on a Friday night after midnight who is effectively now going to be sleeping rough. He can only apologise and I know there’s little he can do, he’s just been taught to apologise!!
I decide to take another beer and sit further in the bar as there are chargers on another table.
I settle down for a long sit, there’s no signal for my phone, and as I get comfy the guy tells me it’s closing, the last other customers have left, it’s 0115!!! Well at least I have some battery life again.
I wander off round the city, there’s a few club / bars open by the 3 arches but otherwise it’s nice and quiet.
The city is presently busy and warm enough to be outside so some restaurants / cafe have tables ready. I arrive at the spot on the map, and it’s a big government building, so I go ask a lovely man overseeing some light projection thing, he’s not from here, so I ask a group of guys at the coffee shop beside the location and they have never heard of it! I am back in the phone to hotels.com, whom this time are not helpful. I have 5% battery remaining..... and I’m told to phone the property as they are waiting outside for me. I can see no one. When I call the lady with limited English and my limited Italian, I find that in fact the place is 30km from here in a small village and all the website information on location, proximity etc is incorrect. They tell me there are no buses this late and I’m not going that far out by taxi as need to get train tomorrow morning. I phone back hotels.com and get put on hold...... I’ve run all my batteries down now to so need to find a place to charge. I’m passing a Spanish tapas bar, and pop my head in, specifically ask for a charge point and she has one beside the bar, so I connect in and as it’s not an apple product I need to connect through my battery, but at least it’s working, and I’m still on hold... I’m having a beer!! Think i deserve it!! A small beer while I stand rudely at the bar on my charging phone. 35 minutes on hold, and eventually a woman answers and is very unhelpful. She cancelled my accommodation but wants to phone them..... on hold again for 15 minutes, it’s now 1145pm........ she comes back on the phone and was going to leave it at that. I’m not happy, as I’m on the phone it’ll not let me get data so I can’t look for hotels and it’s poor reception area so I say o would like the alternatives, she starts suggesting my options........she’s got a couple of apartments I can book and that'll do my requirements, I point out again that it’s now midnight and unless there’s a 24 hour reception it’s unlikely I’ll get in. She then disappears for 10 minutes and I get cut off!!! As I call back I ask the girl serving what time they close. She says 3, so at least it’s warm for a few hours yet. I have to go through all the details again. This guys is more attentive but not helpful however understands that it’s now after midnight and he’s going to try a couple of hotels in the area, at 1220am he can not establish if anyone has any options for me, as he couldn’t understand them! I ask him what he suggests I do, he has no ideas for me except walk around trying to find somewhere. I re-explain that I am a single female in a strange city on a Friday night after midnight who is effectively now going to be sleeping rough. He can only apologise and I know there’s little he can do, he’s just been taught to apologise!!
I decide to take another beer and sit further in the bar as there are chargers on another table.
I settle down for a long sit, there’s no signal for my phone, and as I get comfy the guy tells me it’s closing, the last other customers have left, it’s 0115!!! Well at least I have some battery life again.
I wander off round the city, there’s a few club / bars open by the 3 arches but otherwise it’s nice and quiet.
It’s all fine as I settle to watch a downloaded movie. About 1 hour to go a guy approaches and asks for a Euro, i apologies that I don’t have any money on me and am working off my card. He is nice and speaks reasonable English. He works as a tree surgeon he tells me and was late off work so missed the train to his house and is staying here for now. I am not totally believing the story, but theres no point causing problems. We chat for a while, and I can not shake him off, but I have 30 minutes until my train leaves and staff are starting to arrive, so I apologise for being rude, but explain that I am going to get on the train which is already at the platform, and this is good enough for him to leave me alone and not follow me. I sit for about 10 minutes on the platform then a train guard comes along and lets me on the train, telling me that it will be cold but he is warming it up!!!!
Day 7: To Sicily
I snooze for a while and arrive in Bari station. I get a little confused trying to find the airport train then realise as I wander around, that theres a different station for this line, so can get the train in 15 minutes. I’m going to be 2 hours early at the airport but its better than my other options, so off i head and no sooner it seems I’m in the airport grabbing my coffee!
Arrival on time despite late departure and we’ve flown over most of the island to land, but sadly most was also under cloud. It’s much flatter than I expected and Etna is hiding well shrouded by the low cloud.
Arrival on time despite late departure and we’ve flown over most of the island to land, but sadly most was also under cloud. It’s much flatter than I expected and Etna is hiding well shrouded by the low cloud.
It’s fast out of the airport as Schengen, and off I go. I follow city bus signs, they take you one way then back again!! Ah information man will tell me. Go far end and get the Alibus he says and gives me a map. I head up to the far exit and there is a Alibus. I pay €4!! It’s not that far!! When I open the map it seems that the bus will go on a mini city tour, well may as well as I did pay for it, and closest stop to my accommodation is the final one!! As we head off the place is run down and not very enticing. I had heard this, and it’s not a big centre. We’re round it in 20 minutes on a Saturday afternoon!!!
I check into my hostel and find an old lady doing her washing in the sink in the loo when I attempt to use it!! Never mind, I’m heading off anyway.
I check into my hostel and find an old lady doing her washing in the sink in the loo when I attempt to use it!! Never mind, I’m heading off anyway.
Catania
Syracuse / Siracusa
I’m going to head to Syracuse and enjoy a bit of late pastry eating I think with coffee of course. I had plotted to head to Noto but the clouds as I head down are still heavy over the hills and so I’m not sure I’m keen to push it just because, plus there’s some nice restaurants around the hostel so I could get back and have food....... let’s see!! I run for the train but convinced I messed up finding the stairs as it’s a walk to far end of station and then a 2 carriage train is at the opposite end where I just came in!!! A change of pace for me!!
I check the forecast again and it’s still to be very wet tomorrow. Short stays in locations I think and I have found a route right round the edge and the top...... Etna is not likely to come see me this trip!!
There are olive fields and oranges falling from the trees as we head down the east coast.
There’s a huge flock of flamingos at Augusta but on the opposite side than I’m sitting so next time I’ll try to get them on the way back.
I check the forecast again and it’s still to be very wet tomorrow. Short stays in locations I think and I have found a route right round the edge and the top...... Etna is not likely to come see me this trip!!
There are olive fields and oranges falling from the trees as we head down the east coast.
There’s a huge flock of flamingos at Augusta but on the opposite side than I’m sitting so next time I’ll try to get them on the way back.
Siracusa is split into 2, the peninsula and mainland with the majority of the historical and cultural buildings on the peninsula and the more modern bits on the mainland area. I’m going to head for the old town area with its Roman remains.
For the first time, I feel like I’m in a tourist spot!! All the voices are English speaking and I realise how untouristy the previous week has been.
For the first time, I feel like I’m in a tourist spot!! All the voices are English speaking and I realise how untouristy the previous week has been.
The shore front has no beach, just a wall to stop the waves, it’s going a great job but you see how vicious waves and nature can be. It’s mesmerising to watch.
Overall the old town is quaint, curious and stunning in a traditional way. Always helps when sun is out though and the idea of rushing for another train is a certain no, so i meander around initially kind of aimlessly. It’s strange not to have my bag too!!
There’s so many stunning little streets and offer of course plenty of local food, when open!! I really fancy a salad but when I do get caught by a restaurant promoter she says yes to salad but offers me some well cooked broccoli and carrots, not quite what I fancy.
There’s so many stunning little streets and offer of course plenty of local food, when open!! I really fancy a salad but when I do get caught by a restaurant promoter she says yes to salad but offers me some well cooked broccoli and carrots, not quite what I fancy.
I’m 30 minutes from the station and have just under an hour to kill so I wander back in that direction and with a nibble need going through my mind, I head into a little ‘local food cafe’ that is open and pick up a pizzatino she tells me...... full of aubergine, spinach, and tomato. It’s large servings for €4 so out comes the plastic airport bag and it’ll last a while.
It’s a very busy train too, and I jump onto a carriage that is less occupied. I realise as I pop my head out the door that the carriage has a 1 on it, it’s first class so I wander back into the only 2 carriage to find no free seats and it’s looking exactly the same so I’m going to sit in first. As the train is about to leave another group of people get in and comment on it being first class, they check with me and I just tell them I’ll move if I am told but will for now play a tourist!!!! No issue is raised at ticket inspection and the trundle back is comfortable however the rain has started.
Arrival and my thoughts of food now are far from my mind so I’m going to head back. A message arrives from home so I give them a ring, nice to hear chirpy voices! My nephew and niece have been trying skiing today and loved it so that’s great. I’ll ring them tomorrow.
Back at the hostel I need to get charged up for tomorrow so I need to find a plug. Annoyingly all other beds have a point beside them except mine and the WiFi ain’t connect. I get chatting to Alessandro from Florence who is staying here 3 weeks visiting a friend. He’s not left the hostel today and thinks Catania is more beautiful than Florence. He is heading to Pulgia for Easter with his parents after this. The conversation requires google translate so dies away as he goes for a cigarette.
My phone is charging well enough so as I can not get WiFi, or 3G in the location I may as well hit the hay rather than faff to sort it out. I have a train trip to suss bits out tomorrow.
Another guy comes in and the washing lady!! I’m so exhausted that I’m not aware of anyone else arriving back. Alarm set for 5:45 and slumberland it is!
It’s been the first uneventful and smooth day!
Arrival and my thoughts of food now are far from my mind so I’m going to head back. A message arrives from home so I give them a ring, nice to hear chirpy voices! My nephew and niece have been trying skiing today and loved it so that’s great. I’ll ring them tomorrow.
Back at the hostel I need to get charged up for tomorrow so I need to find a plug. Annoyingly all other beds have a point beside them except mine and the WiFi ain’t connect. I get chatting to Alessandro from Florence who is staying here 3 weeks visiting a friend. He’s not left the hostel today and thinks Catania is more beautiful than Florence. He is heading to Pulgia for Easter with his parents after this. The conversation requires google translate so dies away as he goes for a cigarette.
My phone is charging well enough so as I can not get WiFi, or 3G in the location I may as well hit the hay rather than faff to sort it out. I have a train trip to suss bits out tomorrow.
Another guy comes in and the washing lady!! I’m so exhausted that I’m not aware of anyone else arriving back. Alarm set for 5:45 and slumberland it is!
It’s been the first uneventful and smooth day!
Catania (by night)
Day 8: round the coast
So I waken at 0515 and it’s just better to get up and going. I leave the keys and head out. The cafe over the street is opening so I grab a coffee and wander on. Back via the square and church and into basilica I start to see maybe why the guy thought it was prettier than Florence as no one is here and it is a very compact centre, although I’m still unconvinced. My route this morning is little longer to ensure I’ve got a bearing for future returns, and I realise the place is already livening up with those finishing their Saturday night off and others just starting up, cafes and take always are open and people there early Sunday morning!! Sunrise is breaking the dark nicely.
There’s also quite a group at the railway station and with only 1 machine working I queue between 2 groups of people both anxious to get a ticket. It’s a bit of a fight as they all watch the slow process that can not be avoided for every ticket. The note part is not working so I’ll have to pay with card but one of the guys attempts to speed up my transaction by pushing the buttons for me and when it comes to payment he goes for the cash button, I beat him to the card and he tries to tell me that that is not working. Thankfully he’s wrong and I have a ticket and am off!
Etna is currently almost naked as we wind through tunnels at sunrise. I can still see snow on her too. I had intended to go through the centre but it’s clouded and wet looking, what is coming this way soon!!
There’s also quite a group at the railway station and with only 1 machine working I queue between 2 groups of people both anxious to get a ticket. It’s a bit of a fight as they all watch the slow process that can not be avoided for every ticket. The note part is not working so I’ll have to pay with card but one of the guys attempts to speed up my transaction by pushing the buttons for me and when it comes to payment he goes for the cash button, I beat him to the card and he tries to tell me that that is not working. Thankfully he’s wrong and I have a ticket and am off!
Etna is currently almost naked as we wind through tunnels at sunrise. I can still see snow on her too. I had intended to go through the centre but it’s clouded and wet looking, what is coming this way soon!!
Messina
The clouds are looming again as I head into the city of Messina. I’ve got my ticket so all sorted although the lady was a little confused that I was happy to do 3 changes!!
They’re doing the gardening today around the centre and head back up w hill to get a view from the church over the Messina straights where I sailed previously. I’ve enough time to head up there and through the centre and back to the station for a coffee and pit stop then onto my train. Clouds are getting closer!!
They’re doing the gardening today around the centre and head back up w hill to get a view from the church over the Messina straights where I sailed previously. I’ve enough time to head up there and through the centre and back to the station for a coffee and pit stop then onto my train. Clouds are getting closer!!
We head through tunnels and industrial areas on the coastal side and the mountains are covered in cloud so hard to see what central area is like. The occasional small beach area pops up with Capo D’Orlando looking like a nice spot as we stop off.
Saint Agata di Mititello
Saint Agata di Mititello is the first train change for me and there’s just 30 minutes to stretch the legs! Once again I’m racing the clouds and the rain is starting to spot!! Half and hour is enough to go along the sea front and round into town and back. It’s a functional town, long beach and sadly stony, think I always picture golden beaches and forget the influence of the big volcano hiding from me.
Back to the train and the rain has not really developed. I get on and I think it’s the same train, and the same people!!
Next stop Palermo, again a short one but I’ll be there most of the day on Tuesday before flying home so not too bad.
It’s a prettier part of coast this, more beach areas and the sun is appearing to show the stunning water colour off.
We have a large pickup at Cefalù. Then on to the beautiful looking city of Termini Imerese. I may head here another trip, it was the original plan!
Next stop Palermo, again a short one but I’ll be there most of the day on Tuesday before flying home so not too bad.
It’s a prettier part of coast this, more beach areas and the sun is appearing to show the stunning water colour off.
We have a large pickup at Cefalù. Then on to the beautiful looking city of Termini Imerese. I may head here another trip, it was the original plan!
Palermo: visit 1
So we arrive in Palermo and the smell of garlic and pizza has swiftly changed to Indian spices with a similar shift of ethnicity that id not noticed previously. I also join the google map brigade!! I’ve an hour to wander and typically my map again has stopped locating me!! Follow my nose then!!
Things are finishing up for siesta time so I grab a bottle of water from a shop putting their cheeses away, wow the smell is amazing!!
Things are finishing up for siesta time so I grab a bottle of water from a shop putting their cheeses away, wow the smell is amazing!!
Back at the station, time for next train...... this one to Piraineto. I have a plan to walk to the coast but it’s looking like a route down a main highway so I’ll hold off until I arrive and decide from there.
It’s a busy wee train stopping at a few smaller local stops in Palermo and heading to a new airport near where I’m going. It’s only 45 minutes trip.
Not long and we pull in. Everything is closed up by looks of it, and I head off into town but as suspected it’s along a narrow busy road and having done a few of these already I’m not keen to go again. I try to find a pathway but they take me into gated areas so I give up and head to a restaurant I spotted. I can see a few tables full so I head in, not reading any menus etc. I ask for a table to one, and I am taken through to the main area, where the lady sells tickets and the coffee bar is. I ask for pasta and cause confusion, uncertain why I am given a table off the side and they plonked down in front of me. I am given the menu and enjoy looking at the options, trying to decide if I’m having pizza or pasta, but the waiter says only certain things are available so I go to order a pasta, and the other waiter comes out and throws down a plate of ‘pasta al forno’. I’m really not sure what I’m eating. It’s not exactly cuisine. I start to wonder if I’ve walked in when closed and on the way out sure enough it was their ‘rest’ hour!!’ Oh well. It broke my sitting around. I head back to the station and not long before the train arrives, 45 minutes early and we can board. Perfect! Trapani here I come!! Think this will be a slow train though but along the coast for most of it. I hope I’ve taken the correct side of the train!!
It’s a busy wee train stopping at a few smaller local stops in Palermo and heading to a new airport near where I’m going. It’s only 45 minutes trip.
Not long and we pull in. Everything is closed up by looks of it, and I head off into town but as suspected it’s along a narrow busy road and having done a few of these already I’m not keen to go again. I try to find a pathway but they take me into gated areas so I give up and head to a restaurant I spotted. I can see a few tables full so I head in, not reading any menus etc. I ask for a table to one, and I am taken through to the main area, where the lady sells tickets and the coffee bar is. I ask for pasta and cause confusion, uncertain why I am given a table off the side and they plonked down in front of me. I am given the menu and enjoy looking at the options, trying to decide if I’m having pizza or pasta, but the waiter says only certain things are available so I go to order a pasta, and the other waiter comes out and throws down a plate of ‘pasta al forno’. I’m really not sure what I’m eating. It’s not exactly cuisine. I start to wonder if I’ve walked in when closed and on the way out sure enough it was their ‘rest’ hour!!’ Oh well. It broke my sitting around. I head back to the station and not long before the train arrives, 45 minutes early and we can board. Perfect! Trapani here I come!! Think this will be a slow train though but along the coast for most of it. I hope I’ve taken the correct side of the train!!
Piraineto
There’s a technical issue and we’re leaving 20 minutes late! Hope this is not a bad sign! Not kind after we suddenly stop, but start up again! It certainly doesn’t sound healthy........ at least I had email returned confirming my accommodation tonight and have a rough plan tomorrow figured but depending on weather. It’s been better than forecast today!
A frustration yet bonus is that the train leaves the coast and heads down towards Castelovetrano, a location I was heading for tomorrow, mainly to change to a bus but it’s not looking too impressive.
I’ll get a sneak preview of Marsala too so know what to expect for breakfast. I’ll need to decide if I’m going to try to get to Sciacca tomorrow as the route is a little more uncertain, or whether I leave it out and start later! Sadly that’s not a option with the bus schedule so early start it is and castelventro. Don’t judge a book by its covers???
The country side is showing off why there’s so much wine and olives exported from here.
A frustration yet bonus is that the train leaves the coast and heads down towards Castelovetrano, a location I was heading for tomorrow, mainly to change to a bus but it’s not looking too impressive.
I’ll get a sneak preview of Marsala too so know what to expect for breakfast. I’ll need to decide if I’m going to try to get to Sciacca tomorrow as the route is a little more uncertain, or whether I leave it out and start later! Sadly that’s not a option with the bus schedule so early start it is and castelventro. Don’t judge a book by its covers???
The country side is showing off why there’s so much wine and olives exported from here.
Trapani
We arrive 25 minutes late but I have key instructions from my hosts so all good, I hope. I notice cous cous in many menus here but everything closed. Nasty pasta maybe was worth it!!
As I wander through the marble look town there’s the lovely sea smell.
The accommodation is down a little side street just off the harbour edge and sure enough as promised the keys are on the buzzer, except there’s 2 sets. I’ve been told where my apartment room is so I pick up both and head up the 3 flights of stairs. Into the apartment I hope it’s the right one, both sets of keys work so I head in and find a room with 2 double beds and 2 bunks. There’s 1 set of towels so I don’t unlock the rest as decide this must be it and as there’s fresh food in the fridge I am unsure if others are staying here. Back down with the other keys and settle myself in. It’s 2200 but I’m exhausted so will head to bed just as I’m nodding off I hear someone come in to the apartment. It’s the host who knocks sternly in the door and I head out. I have the wrong room but it’s ok she says!! Oooops. I apologise and give her my document (passport) and the €2 city tax and head back to bed, confirming my 6am departure. Just switch off the lights she asks.
A few messages to respond to and I’m off to sleep!
As I wander through the marble look town there’s the lovely sea smell.
The accommodation is down a little side street just off the harbour edge and sure enough as promised the keys are on the buzzer, except there’s 2 sets. I’ve been told where my apartment room is so I pick up both and head up the 3 flights of stairs. Into the apartment I hope it’s the right one, both sets of keys work so I head in and find a room with 2 double beds and 2 bunks. There’s 1 set of towels so I don’t unlock the rest as decide this must be it and as there’s fresh food in the fridge I am unsure if others are staying here. Back down with the other keys and settle myself in. It’s 2200 but I’m exhausted so will head to bed just as I’m nodding off I hear someone come in to the apartment. It’s the host who knocks sternly in the door and I head out. I have the wrong room but it’s ok she says!! Oooops. I apologise and give her my document (passport) and the €2 city tax and head back to bed, confirming my 6am departure. Just switch off the lights she asks.
A few messages to respond to and I’m off to sleep!
Day 9: Down the west and to Agrigento
5:45 I’m in the shower. I’ve been woken a couple of times by the torrential rain over night. It lasts about 3 minutes and it’s quiet at present.
Out by 6am I’m heading towards the opposite coast side. The town is quiet and just after I get going those heavens open however I do find shelter in a doorway sufficient to allow me to put up my brollie and cover my rucksack as this is serious bouncing rain!! As previous it doesn’t last long but does leave deep puddles difficult to notice on the roadway!! Yes I have a very wet right foot thanks to one!!
There’s some lovely spots here and I try to imagine how they use them. First the coastal view point which smells a little due to the amount of seaweed collected but you get a full view of the city perched on top of the rocks. It’s small so I expect a nightmare in a month or so!
The churches are difficult to photograph that I pass by but they’re quite plain and insignificant architecturally. A large curved archway which is listed as the fish market looks like a place to sit and enjoy wine, but not if the markets there, and more piazza looking out to the sea are all the way up my walk to the station.
Out by 6am I’m heading towards the opposite coast side. The town is quiet and just after I get going those heavens open however I do find shelter in a doorway sufficient to allow me to put up my brollie and cover my rucksack as this is serious bouncing rain!! As previous it doesn’t last long but does leave deep puddles difficult to notice on the roadway!! Yes I have a very wet right foot thanks to one!!
There’s some lovely spots here and I try to imagine how they use them. First the coastal view point which smells a little due to the amount of seaweed collected but you get a full view of the city perched on top of the rocks. It’s small so I expect a nightmare in a month or so!
The churches are difficult to photograph that I pass by but they’re quite plain and insignificant architecturally. A large curved archway which is listed as the fish market looks like a place to sit and enjoy wine, but not if the markets there, and more piazza looking out to the sea are all the way up my walk to the station.
Marsala
I get to the station and can’t find the ticket machine but notice a sign saying to buy at a cafe..... o can see 2, so I head towards one but certainly no signs of ticket notices here so I head to the tabacci opposite but on the way somehow I manage to drop my phone in a puddle, it’s a deep puddle too but I’m straight in there. I do have my iPad with me too but so much information is on here I realise how dependant I am on it!!! It gets a good shaking out as I walk along and to my relief it’s not showing signs of drowning incident yet.....
the tabacci does not have tickets for train, the cafe is in the station!! Back I head and find it, grab a coffee with the ticket, and head to the warm train. Hopefully the heat will dry things!!!
Bridget has messaged me about a BBC challenge that had me thinking:
https://lambert.etribez.com/ag/lambert/raceacrosstheworld/welcome.html
It’s sun up and rain tailing off as I arrive. The place is warming up in activity and temperature and I think the sun may arrive soon.
I’m going to head to the water front area and walk along that before heading back though town to the station again. I’ve just over an hour and so should be possible.
The sea front is industrial and not so interesting as most blocked off with the port but heading into town you find the real old city sights, walls, old roman foundations and lovely carved churches. It does feel again, like a lovely town. Cafes are opening and the kids are heading to school so it’s buzzing in the centre.
the tabacci does not have tickets for train, the cafe is in the station!! Back I head and find it, grab a coffee with the ticket, and head to the warm train. Hopefully the heat will dry things!!!
Bridget has messaged me about a BBC challenge that had me thinking:
https://lambert.etribez.com/ag/lambert/raceacrosstheworld/welcome.html
It’s sun up and rain tailing off as I arrive. The place is warming up in activity and temperature and I think the sun may arrive soon.
I’m going to head to the water front area and walk along that before heading back though town to the station again. I’ve just over an hour and so should be possible.
The sea front is industrial and not so interesting as most blocked off with the port but heading into town you find the real old city sights, walls, old roman foundations and lovely carved churches. It does feel again, like a lovely town. Cafes are opening and the kids are heading to school so it’s buzzing in the centre.
And here he is in local Sicilian:
Castelventro
A quick supermarket visit stocks some up with pears and water so time to head to Castelventro.... let’s see if it’s as bad as I thought. I have 2 hours until my bus to Scicca and need to locate the bus station which I think is 1km info town but hopefully can check when arrive.
Here I am..... arrival on time, let’s go! Wandering through it’s still not inspiring me. The buildings are run down and not visually appealing. There are a few churches dotted through town one of which is damaged such that the alter is open to the elements. I grab a coffee with 1.5 hours until my bus, and what the lady tells me is a typical breakfast piece. It looks like a crispy pancake and it is filled wort ham she tells me. I’m not fancying sweet so that’s perfect. It’s heated up and bright to me. It’s not as expected,,..... the outer is a doughnut dough including the sweetness. The ham is not really flavoured so not really good!!! Coffee is great though!
I’m going to find the bus station or stop...... I go and there’s no sign at number 11 of any sort of bus route but I did pass a travel agency so I’ll go ask there. He directs me to another location 1km away.... let’s see..... I’ve time and can hope the info is correct. It’s been 2 days of no issue I have to wonder if it’ll last!! I’m heading to Escobar which had a good rating for coffee etc and so if I am correct I can enjoy the sun that’s appeared.
Ticket in hand I have 1 hour to walk 50m to the bus stop so I feel the need for a cappuccino and a seat in the sun before the big black cloud opens it’s goods!!
Cappuccino enjoyed and the guy pops out to tell me that the bus will arrive shortly. So I head up to stop and sure enough it’s on time. The driver refuses to let me on with my backpack though! Not sure why as the other girl with me is allowed on with 2 bags!! Ah well it is quite full on the bus.
Within 5 minutes we stop for a ‘pee break’ for 5 minutes.
Here I am..... arrival on time, let’s go! Wandering through it’s still not inspiring me. The buildings are run down and not visually appealing. There are a few churches dotted through town one of which is damaged such that the alter is open to the elements. I grab a coffee with 1.5 hours until my bus, and what the lady tells me is a typical breakfast piece. It looks like a crispy pancake and it is filled wort ham she tells me. I’m not fancying sweet so that’s perfect. It’s heated up and bright to me. It’s not as expected,,..... the outer is a doughnut dough including the sweetness. The ham is not really flavoured so not really good!!! Coffee is great though!
I’m going to find the bus station or stop...... I go and there’s no sign at number 11 of any sort of bus route but I did pass a travel agency so I’ll go ask there. He directs me to another location 1km away.... let’s see..... I’ve time and can hope the info is correct. It’s been 2 days of no issue I have to wonder if it’ll last!! I’m heading to Escobar which had a good rating for coffee etc and so if I am correct I can enjoy the sun that’s appeared.
Ticket in hand I have 1 hour to walk 50m to the bus stop so I feel the need for a cappuccino and a seat in the sun before the big black cloud opens it’s goods!!
Cappuccino enjoyed and the guy pops out to tell me that the bus will arrive shortly. So I head up to stop and sure enough it’s on time. The driver refuses to let me on with my backpack though! Not sure why as the other girl with me is allowed on with 2 bags!! Ah well it is quite full on the bus.
Within 5 minutes we stop for a ‘pee break’ for 5 minutes.
Sciacca
On the road again and just as we are about to hit Sciacca and I’m contemplating shorts, then rain hits!! Well I can chose 1.5 hours here or 3! Then again it’s sunny and lovely shortly after.
We’re heading through very fertile plains again with expanses of rows of trees and bushes.
We arrive and only a couple of us get off and I retrieve my backpack!! Rain starts again for a couple of minutes and then after getting waterproof, it’s stopped.
Wandering towards the sea I realise how high up we are, I had pictured a lunch overlooking the harbour but it’s not at all set up for that! It got again, plenty of old historic sights, and I enjoy the sun as and when it shines but there is sufficient rain spells to make me keep going.
We’re heading through very fertile plains again with expanses of rows of trees and bushes.
We arrive and only a couple of us get off and I retrieve my backpack!! Rain starts again for a couple of minutes and then after getting waterproof, it’s stopped.
Wandering towards the sea I realise how high up we are, I had pictured a lunch overlooking the harbour but it’s not at all set up for that! It got again, plenty of old historic sights, and I enjoy the sun as and when it shines but there is sufficient rain spells to make me keep going.
Agrigento
I buy my onward ticket at the allocated ticket bar and check that I leave from where I arrived. Back at the bus stop I’m just in time for the bus which is empty on arrival. Perfect. I should get to Agrigento by 1530 so can do sights as wandering to the hostel and also can drop off my bag!!
As expected the rain starts as I arrive and again it’s short lived. I’m heading through the town centre to my accommodation by the looks of it, but could duck into a cafe if needed as there’s a few open here still (siesta time!). There’s a few bits to admire on the way, but I’m keen just to get checked in and drop off bag, I foresee more stairs / steps in my walking day!!
The accommodation is down another small alley staircase and is an old school of arts building. The host speaks good English and is very pleasant. There are 3 of us in this huge, 3 storey 17 roomed, echoing accommodation. There’s a games area with billiards table on one level and the school type dining area certainly brings back memories but this included table football tables outside it!
I settle in, actually glad that the 10bedded room has others in it, then head off. Catch the sun while it’s still out.
As expected it’s all ups and downs, down first to catch the amazing view then up to the top to grab it in the opposite direction at the cathedral. Many bits are being done up and it feels like effort is being put into this picturesque town. There’s also very much am anticipating tourists feel, while much points to French and walkers and English speakers are everywhere!
As expected the rain starts as I arrive and again it’s short lived. I’m heading through the town centre to my accommodation by the looks of it, but could duck into a cafe if needed as there’s a few open here still (siesta time!). There’s a few bits to admire on the way, but I’m keen just to get checked in and drop off bag, I foresee more stairs / steps in my walking day!!
The accommodation is down another small alley staircase and is an old school of arts building. The host speaks good English and is very pleasant. There are 3 of us in this huge, 3 storey 17 roomed, echoing accommodation. There’s a games area with billiards table on one level and the school type dining area certainly brings back memories but this included table football tables outside it!
I settle in, actually glad that the 10bedded room has others in it, then head off. Catch the sun while it’s still out.
As expected it’s all ups and downs, down first to catch the amazing view then up to the top to grab it in the opposite direction at the cathedral. Many bits are being done up and it feels like effort is being put into this picturesque town. There’s also very much am anticipating tourists feel, while much points to French and walkers and English speakers are everywhere!
I notice a osterie and decide a final evening wine is in order so I pop in to get a local one.
The guy is happy to chose, which was certainly a good decision as it’s a lovely wine, very palatable, and within a couple of minutes bread covered in olive oil and cheese is brought out to accompany it. I’m facing the menu, and there’s a mussels I’m young fennel sounding like an interesting option. Not had fish related dish yet!! I go for it! It’s containing plenty of garlic and fennel but not to overpower the mussels, which he assures me are local and most plump and tasty! It’s a large dish too, glad I’m not doing a full meal as this was a starter, and he checked twice it was all I wanted!!!
The guy is happy to chose, which was certainly a good decision as it’s a lovely wine, very palatable, and within a couple of minutes bread covered in olive oil and cheese is brought out to accompany it. I’m facing the menu, and there’s a mussels I’m young fennel sounding like an interesting option. Not had fish related dish yet!! I go for it! It’s containing plenty of garlic and fennel but not to overpower the mussels, which he assures me are local and most plump and tasty! It’s a large dish too, glad I’m not doing a full meal as this was a starter, and he checked twice it was all I wanted!!!
Consumed and off again, back to admire the sunset and then back to the hostel. I head to see if there’s a washing machine as this would get me ahead for my return, so head to the kitchen level to look, to find a Chinese Canadian guy rating bread in the dark standing at the serving hatch!! He’s on a 3 week trip round parts of Italy and had come down from Rome. He’s been here 2 days and will head to Marsala tomorrow for a couple of days. He thinks it’s going to be a big town, I show him the reality but suggest the hiking maybe good. I then head up to the room to find my other room mate / hostel mate in bed, it’s a cold room due to the size, so i try to get the rather small heater going. We're not but it’s going to take a while to take any effect. This guy is a Dutch / Belgium who is italian by passport but has never lived here and doesn’t speak the language! He’s enjoying travel as you get everything cheap under 25 but has just come back from 6 months through Asia and finding cheap expensive. He also did Myanmar and is keen to do more of Eastern Europe so plenty of stories to share. We chat for a while but he then realised that he needs to go eat and we find that not much is open on a Monday night, by the information on our maps apps. I find a pizza place going a €5 pizza and he heads off. Time for me to repack and prepare for tomorrow. I’m also in bed hiding from the chill!!
The first guy arrives back and I set him on the heating challenge, he’s sure he can work it but after about 5 minutes of pushing the remote, he seems to give up and wanders back out.
It’s not long before my pizza consumer returns very pleased with his dinner and goes to get ready for bed. We chat for a while again about couch surfing and trips planned but he’s wanting to get back to his net-flicks addiction as he calls it, so I leave him to it, falling asleep not long after I’m guessing!!
The first guy arrives back and I set him on the heating challenge, he’s sure he can work it but after about 5 minutes of pushing the remote, he seems to give up and wanders back out.
It’s not long before my pizza consumer returns very pleased with his dinner and goes to get ready for bed. We chat for a while again about couch surfing and trips planned but he’s wanting to get back to his net-flicks addiction as he calls it, so I leave him to it, falling asleep not long after I’m guessing!!
Day 9: To Palermo and London
So our Canadian friend is up and going at 7am, and fully intends to ensure we know about it. He’s banging things around, dragging something it sounded like then heads for a coffee which he could have sat and drunk in any of the 3 ‘leisure’ areas but instead returns to the room opening the door with such force I waken and open my eyes and he starts a conversation. I’d decided not to rush today as I had only Palermo to cover and so grunt and close my eyes again. He goes to sit at the table in the room and every time he takes a drink the cup is banged back on the table!!! Thankfully he’s gone by 8 and I doze off again wakening at 9 and heading for my shower etc. My other room mate hasn’t moved but is awake by the time I’m heading off to find coffee and breakfast! I tell him there’s a train at 1218 and wish him good travels. He can chose a bus in 1 hour or the train.
Into town I’ve covered most of it and find a cafe to grab a coffee. I’m on the search for water but struggle to find a shop selling big bottles, I’ll grab another coffee and look more. I notice a focaccia sandwich, but had that yet, so will buy also and that’ll do my brunch! It’s a large slice and only €2.5. Sitting in the sun outside it’s lovely but beggars, first I’ve seen are approaching us frequently. The locals seem used to them and send them away as they approach.
Into town I’ve covered most of it and find a cafe to grab a coffee. I’m on the search for water but struggle to find a shop selling big bottles, I’ll grab another coffee and look more. I notice a focaccia sandwich, but had that yet, so will buy also and that’ll do my brunch! It’s a large slice and only €2.5. Sitting in the sun outside it’s lovely but beggars, first I’ve seen are approaching us frequently. The locals seem used to them and send them away as they approach.
I head to the station and pick up my ticket. I ask in the tabac if they do sparking water, and they have large bottles so job done and I am stocked up! Heading back into the sun I meet my roommate coming for the train. He orders a warm milk and chocolate pastry (very Belgium!!) however the warm milk is loaded with a coffee too! He’s not impressed!!!
We head down to the platform and sit chatting in the sun. The train is there and we can get on after 10 minutes. I’m liking the semi circle seats but he needs to face the direction of travel so we naturally separate and enjoy the ride facing our respective directions!!!
It’s stunning through the central area with flowers blossoming and the sun shining. The journey didn’t feel like 2 hours! On arrival he’s off to find a hostel and so we bid farewell although may bump into each other on the wandering.
We head down to the platform and sit chatting in the sun. The train is there and we can get on after 10 minutes. I’m liking the semi circle seats but he needs to face the direction of travel so we naturally separate and enjoy the ride facing our respective directions!!!
It’s stunning through the central area with flowers blossoming and the sun shining. The journey didn’t feel like 2 hours! On arrival he’s off to find a hostel and so we bid farewell although may bump into each other on the wandering.
Palermo 2!
The sun is here as we arrive, so I head knowingly up the road I'd done in the drizzle previously. Definitely a better day for it!! There’s some lovely buildings, mainly churches, and at the central area it feels, the Praetorian Fountain with an amazing array of animals faces around it! The fountain represents the twelve olympians ( Zeus, Hera, Poseidon, Demeter, Athena, Apollo, Artemis, Ares, Aphrodite, Hephaestus, Hermes, and either Hestia or Dionysus) and other mythological figures, animals and the rivers of Palermo. The fountain was built by Francesco Camilliani in the city of Florence in 1554, but was transferred in Palermo in 1574.
Up past the Quattro Canti and coming into area of exclusive shops I turn down a street and hit a market area filled with handbags; on to the Massimo Theatre and then down another side street full of restaurants who are desperately seeking custom! I’m not feeling like anything at present but good to know for later.
Onwards towards the sea, but it’s not impressive so back in through town and I feel it’s the more rundown section.
I’m kind of losing the wish to continue and the grey clouds are back so rather than pick another area of the city, which there’s a couple more I could do, I decide to call it a holiday and head 3 hours early, to the airport. This is a city of return to on a cheap one!
Back along the coast to the airport and arrival back at stansted is bang on midnight, 20 minutes late.
Back along the coast to the airport and arrival back at stansted is bang on midnight, 20 minutes late.
Reflection
Chaos travel in Puglia and Calabria out of season!
Be prepared to get incorrect instruction if not able to speak the language
Stunning area of the country but run down and dirty on the whole compared to other places
Be prepared to get incorrect instruction if not able to speak the language
Stunning area of the country but run down and dirty on the whole compared to other places