Kosovo #77 or is it a country??
More pastries, the bus driver has stopped again!!!! Only just through the border!! I get a roam-free message, not expecting that!
There’s lots of new building going on as we drive though. All red brick. It’s sunny but I can see clouds contemplating covering it, and after another what appears to be cigarette stops along the 10km route into the city, we eventually arrive and not long after the clouds set in.
My first plan is to head to the Bill Clinton statue, the concept just amused me! Dani (the Spanish guy) is also heading that direction so we walk together. He’s shocked at the concept of the statue..... I’m not sure if people think it’s a good resemblance??
There’s lots of new building going on as we drive though. All red brick. It’s sunny but I can see clouds contemplating covering it, and after another what appears to be cigarette stops along the 10km route into the city, we eventually arrive and not long after the clouds set in.
My first plan is to head to the Bill Clinton statue, the concept just amused me! Dani (the Spanish guy) is also heading that direction so we walk together. He’s shocked at the concept of the statue..... I’m not sure if people think it’s a good resemblance??
Round the corner is a large cathedral opposite the university and the national library, which I had intended to see, but we ‘passed’ it with seeing it. I’ll be heading back that way later so shall explore more then. Quickly we’re in the pedestrian area of the city centre and I want to see the ‘newborn’ statue which is a bit of a graffiti thing now, but is for 10years independence. At this point Dani and I part ways, swapping numbers with a potential of lunch date.... he will get advise from his host!
Im off to find a coffee and chill in the sun that has briefly appeared. On the walk past the little street bookshop I find him..... MY LITTLE PRINCE! Ah he’s here too!!
Juice had and I’m off down the tree lined pedestrian street. Lots of cafes adorn the sides and there’s a nice relaxing feel. The hotel needs some upgrading but otherwise it’s clean and friendly.
In no time at all I am at the Mosque, I thought it would be a longer walk, it’s full of people sitting around in the gardens but has a nice painted roof to the outside on the arches. Not much more, except another My LIttle Prince (MLP) in a bookshop opposite. I head through a market and back down the Main Street.
On the way I pass the Museum of Broken Relationships, containing people memorabilia of their relationships, I can see through the glass a sock... shampoo, a wedding dress and a book. Not paying €2 for that!!
There’s a need to make most of the sun and grab an ice cream...... duly done and sit on the bench, which was not the best idea.... Bon appetite is said by a guy next to me, initially I ignore him but then realise he’s continuing to say it, so I acknowledge him and say thank you. Well I’m came the questions, where from, why here, where is husband, on own etc. Just in time Dani messages to say he’s got a place for lunch. Phew!! I’m saved....... I apologies to the group around me and explain I must go meet my friend. I notice a guy frowning as he walks past in a protective way too! His recommended place is 5 mins at most round the corner so I head off to find it. I pop into a shop to get a water and meet this frowning guy on the way out! He was concerned for me with the group of guys. I tell him that is not a concern and I was ok. He insists on showing me to my lunch place (little side street). His English is not good but he says prizren is lovely but easier to go to Skopje from Pristina. I’ll take that on board.....
Dani arrives at the restaurant, it’s a veggie place with another picture of MLP. It’s got a good selection of local beers (craft and draught) and we order different local beers to try....... the place is a little quirky in line with Belgrade type bohemian style and fast filled up. Dani invites me to join the quiz night tonight being run by his host, an English Aussie ex-pat here since 2006. Oh temptation!! I’ll consider it over lunch and decide. 3pm bus there was my plan..... we finish lunch and I have time so I take Dani on the tour I did earlier including going through the market. En route we pass a guy begging who’s face is totally scarred from being burned. I don’t know what’s happened but I drop my coins in for him. His hands and arms are unscathed and I am not sure I want to know. He says thank you in a very nice clear English. Made me even more sad and sort intrigued for his story but also inappropriate to ask!
I’ve decided. I’m going to head down to prizren and decide. It’s feeling a little like rain so good excuse to be on a bus!! I’m off to the station again. We head to the national library where we’d missed earlier and part our ways, Dani going inside and I’ll hit the bus!!
I must pay €0.10 to get to the bus!!! Then it’s €4 to get ticket. It’s a busy bus, and lots of puck ups on the way. The countryside is stunning on the way down and I’m back in the Carpathian mountain concept just much better roads!!
The rain has followed us in pockets all the way and at times as I walk into town. The walk is not far and it’s not attractive initially but like every city near a bus station!! However again like most places, when you hit the river it’s idyllic. There’s greenery on the river, the banks have lovely flowers in pots in the bars and restaurants and nicely redeveloped bridges (funded by the EU!). I can see snow on mountains and the other direction the fort sits on the hill top.
I wander up round the cobbled (smooth) streets of the old town and stop for an orange juice then head towards the fort...... the maps tell me to go one way, so being a truster and with no other indicators in forms of signs etc, I duly follow...... well it’s not an easy path, and I can see it’s being renovated, and a man doing the work happily helps direct me up the slippery and uneven pathway, of you can call it that even!! I climb for about 8 minutes and hit a dead end so to speak.... the path now is scub land and although I can see people at the top I don’t see a way through. Adams peak (Sri Lanka) comes to mind!!! After following the map a few different options and finding some steps into a wall I give up!! The view from the level below is fantastic and the level of the sun enhances it. I have scrub and bush infront of me but I like this level for the roof pictures (well I convince myself as I can’t find where to go!!) and I tentatively head back down the sloping way..... without a stumble! I’m pleased and amused at the mess google can get you in!!
Back down and I can feel like I’ve done most of the city centre so I walk along the river to the edge of the old town and wander back the other side enjoying the sun going down. I can get a bus at 1830 back I think! I notice how many of the old boys sitting on benches, acknowledge me with hello as I walk past, they seem to feel confident enough to try to start a conversation in English. I only chatted to the ones in the centre of Pristina but again it occurred 3 times here! As I walk along the main road I frustratingly miss the 1800 and probably could have flagged it down to get on, but I’m in no rush!! By returning to Pristina I can get a bus at 0800 Which gets me in at the same time as the 0530 bus from prizren it says, much easier road from Pristina, so what I lose in tonight I gain in the morning.
Back at the bus station the 1830 does not arrive so I’m on the 1900 and hope to be back 2030. A german Guy I saw at one of the bridges is also on the bus. He’s not too chatty!!! Bah, never mind!! I may be able to catch up with Dani again later but sleep may also be good and I really want to jump in a shower after my ‘climb’!!
Back at the bus station the 1830 does not arrive so I’m on the 1900 and hope to be back 2030. A german Guy I saw at one of the bridges is also on the bus. He’s not too chatty!!! Bah, never mind!! I may be able to catch up with Dani again later but sleep may also be good and I really want to jump in a shower after my ‘climb’!!
The hotel is not easy to find and although just down the road from where Dani is at the quiz night the bus got me in at 2110 and by the time I checked in and showered it’s 2300 and I still want to leave earlish tomorrow so I’m not going to go join them although he did message to say there are lots of Scottish at it and many living here! I’m sure he’ll have lots of news for me tomorrow about it!
Day 3: to Macedonia
It’s a very misty start and my plan of seeing stunning views from the bus is thwarted by this. I can see about 10m!!!
Yesterday Dani had heard from his host that there were problems getting to Macedonia by road, he was not sure what they were but as we approach the border (about 10km) we are diverted off along a small road through the mountains. Maybe this is what he meant! It’s not a good road with its hairpin bends and potholes but better than those in Ukraine!! The views are stunning as we climb, and the mist is starting to climb also, leaving the densely packed forested hills, and so I’m happy! Better than the main road!!
Yesterday Dani had heard from his host that there were problems getting to Macedonia by road, he was not sure what they were but as we approach the border (about 10km) we are diverted off along a small road through the mountains. Maybe this is what he meant! It’s not a good road with its hairpin bends and potholes but better than those in Ukraine!! The views are stunning as we climb, and the mist is starting to climb also, leaving the densely packed forested hills, and so I’m happy! Better than the main road!!
We wind and weave up to almost top tree line passing plenty of emergency road repair signs (no EU symbol on them) and much traffic coming towards us. The density of tree does not allow for much photography but i grab the odd few. We pass no houses or signs of habitation yet a large supermarket at the top!! Then it’s 3km back down! The sun angle makes photosore of a challenge as reflections of my co-passengers appear in them!!
Suddenly we are out of the trees and in the plaines, and wow!! I cross to the other side of the bus to the amusement of my fellow people but it’s so worth it. Miles and miles of mountains and hills uninterrupted, I notice the girl behind is also doing pictures so I feel a little less unique! Certainly from this side you don’t want to look down!!
I have seen many overgrown grave yards with small white stones and I’m wondering if they are the remnants of the Serbian culture ‘displaced’ out of here. We hit a problem, Almalfi coast style........ a single road through a town and a cement lorry coming round the corner followed by lots of very slow traffic!! I can grab a picture of the scarred mountains at least! The editing of the hundreds of photos I’ve just taken will delay the pictures attached to this part so you may need to come back tomorrow (Saturday) to see them!! I have a couple of videos too to figure out uploading! Just when I relax and think it’s over there’s more!! There has been a big landslide and we are about to meet another lorry. I’m back on the drivers side, thankfully, flash backs to Sri Lanka hit me!!! There are many more lorry’s to meet.....and no edge to judge the road incorrectly!! The odd 1 level ‘crash barrier’ exists but not sure it would stop much!!
This will remain one of my most amazing road journeys I think!! We are down almost at the base and into a nice wee town which is on the border.
The sun is out in force and it’s a nice little hut to go through into Macedonia
The sun is out in force and it’s a nice little hut to go through into Macedonia