Macedonia #78
The driver keeps our passports etc this time and just hands the paperwork and them over automatically to the customs staff. It’s a little bigger this side, but not much! I’m out of 3G and back to WiFi I think so I can relax now!! The usual inspection I am now familiar with and the guard coming onto the bus saying something to Which we say no (do you have anything to declare!) and return of the passports..... no stamp. It’s been like the old days getting stamps on my travels this year! My passport looks like I have been somewhere now!!
I’ve worked up a hunger but I have no local money, so will need to sort that on arrival. Macedonia already feels like a letdown after the earlier part of the journey. However after Skopje I am off through to the west to enjoy its scenery.
Arrival into Skopje and it’s down a cobble Street. I notice the amount of grand statues as we drove through the centre to the bus station. They have enjoyed their sculpture and statue placing I think!! They have English buses too!! It’s 10am and I plan to leave at 2 so will see how that goes!!
The bus station is full of taxi touts so I find an exchange place and escape. A guy tells me it’s a holiday today here and so he can drive me for cheap around the country and he has a couple of people wanting to go to Ohrid so offers to ask if I can share with them. It’s all too much organisation so I take his number and get outside. I’ve been told to turn left and look for a red bus to take me to the millennium cross but there are lots of them and the Cyrillic writing is back in force!! Let’s walk after 2.5 hours on a bus. I can go there after the city.
I’ve worked up a hunger but I have no local money, so will need to sort that on arrival. Macedonia already feels like a letdown after the earlier part of the journey. However after Skopje I am off through to the west to enjoy its scenery.
Arrival into Skopje and it’s down a cobble Street. I notice the amount of grand statues as we drove through the centre to the bus station. They have enjoyed their sculpture and statue placing I think!! They have English buses too!! It’s 10am and I plan to leave at 2 so will see how that goes!!
The bus station is full of taxi touts so I find an exchange place and escape. A guy tells me it’s a holiday today here and so he can drive me for cheap around the country and he has a couple of people wanting to go to Ohrid so offers to ask if I can share with them. It’s all too much organisation so I take his number and get outside. I’ve been told to turn left and look for a red bus to take me to the millennium cross but there are lots of them and the Cyrillic writing is back in force!! Let’s walk after 2.5 hours on a bus. I can go there after the city.
It’s a 10minute walk and nice and quiet! Fist planned stop is mother Theresa House..... I go one way, it’s all shops, I go back beside what maybe the parliament as there are guards looking at me as i walk through, little like lost in Kiev!, and google maps stop moving at the entrance.... nothing here so back again! Then I find it with all the Japanese around!! It’s a strange building looking almost Gaudi like but I like the style and concept.
Off down the street and onto the centre. In the main square it’s time for the pit stop and I’m attracted to a sign (good marketing) so head in for coffee. It’s the first and only microbrewery in Macedonia so... a small (140ml) beer ordered. It’s cool place, I can charge my phone and just enjoy the guy tickling the ivories to familiar tunes. I can chill for a while out of the hot sun!
The square is still being built and it’s very much showing off with its gleaming in the sun.
It backs onto the river and is full of almost excessively big statues and sculptures. I cross bridge 1. The next looks like the Charles bridge in Prague, lined with statues, one is being built behind me 100m away and there’s a 3rd I can see just along with wooden ships berthed beside.
It backs onto the river and is full of almost excessively big statues and sculptures. I cross bridge 1. The next looks like the Charles bridge in Prague, lined with statues, one is being built behind me 100m away and there’s a 3rd I can see just along with wooden ships berthed beside.
I head over and into another area with more statues and such towering over. There is no information on them so I’ll google and add later.
https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/amp.theguardian.com/travel/2015/apr/11/skopje-macedonia-architecture-2014-project-building
https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/amp.theguardian.com/travel/2015/apr/11/skopje-macedonia-architecture-2014-project-building
There is a raised section just along from the Turkish baths and in honour of Macau I go to take the escalator up the few steps, say it’s not in action today!!! Not sure why it’s randomly there as on top there is a seating area only.
On up a few steps and I stumble across the bazar that Dani told me about! It’s got lots of vintage shops etc in it and is just lovely with small cobbled winding streets and shade! It’s full of people touting for your money and playing tricks on people. There’s a real North Africa feeling to it! Thankfully it’s not busy!!
Next plan is to head to the fortress. It’s not far and takes me past the national theatre with loads of statues and the national ballet. The quote from mother Theresa is there about wasting money and I find it a bit ironic with the grandeur of this. I do however find the statues etc enchanting and fun but still to translate the names and make sense of it. The lady playing the broken harp intrigues me again. It has what I’d say were swallows flying off so I wonder about its significance.
Right to find this fort. I’m not being beaten this time!!! It’s up a road and the warmth is taking its toll!! I cut through the tree lined park and into the fortress. A guy in Black (mad in this heat) says hello, I think he’s a security or such and I should pay, but Mo he’s a guide called Oliver who has worked on the site as an archaeologist for 10 years or so and then became a guide when politics stopped the work. He bought a farm behind Millemuum hill (where the cross is) and took 2 years out and this is his first day back at work. He offers me a free tour when I ask for his card for another trip and future friends visiting. Why not?? He ya fascinating on his information of the period and the different stone work from the different centuaries qnd such. He worked as an architect and recreated the site on his computer. I tell him I love the flowers and he apologises for them but they add to the beauty I think. We talk about farming and many centuries of history and vikings!!
I promise to message later and will do my best to recommend him. He offers to take me round the old town but I do it on my next trip! He also told me about the Japanese architect who came in 1963 (Kenzo Tanga) and advised on the building of houses to avoid disaster in the earthquake. In the fort only 1 statue remains from the one that took the walls down and it is made of concrete so the decision was to build in concrete and away from the river with foundations into the rocks. He recommended a inner circle of flats (red ones) round the fortress. The Yugoslavian government when getting the cost agreed to only erect 1/2 of them so it’s a 1/2 circle of flats now!! I wonder how much Great Aunt Anne was involved with the characters here!! (https://failedarchitecture.com/masterplan-for-the-city-of-skopje-macedonia/)
We finish with water from the tap and I fill my bottle again back down the hill and with 1 hour to go I need to get to the bus station and find out how much my ticket will be as I’m trying not to have to change another €20! Alice will be getting lots of funny money!!
I’m heading back over the other bridges so wander down to the river. On the way a policeman says hello. He’s called Durmam and lived in Sweden as a child. We have a quick chat and I head on. The 2 bridges of characters / statues are for civilisations of Macedonia and artists. I’m not sure how many statues there are but it’s nice. I can’t be bothered to figure out who each is from the Cyrillic writing but they have a nice outlook and I’m sure if cartoons brought them to life it’ll be a great party!!!
I’m heading back to the bus station and find it’s just a straight line across from the bridges! No distance at all! I think there’s a bus at 1400 but, no it’s 1610. Annoying as I’m here at 1345!! I go to buy a banička (long pastry with cheese in). It costs £0.80 and when she cuts it I think, good only a section, but no, the whole thing. It’s cut into 8 slices, I’m full after 3!! The rest will come with me for my journey! Now what to do. I’ve done 14km today and the back pack is merging in with the sun marks so could do with putting it down. I contemplate the millennium cross on the hill, but reports are that it will take 1 hour up and similar therefore back, but no one can confirm and information sends me to the one in the local bus station, which is closed. I find a bus stop which I think days millennium cross, but alongside another man I look focused at the timetable and unsure of its reliability. On the ‘when I come back’ list!! I find a bar in a housing area just down the road and decide I can face that distance!!!
A large fresh orange juice and a beer are my reward for today. There about 10 people here just having coffee and chilling. It’s so quiet I like it!! Message from mum and I catch up with mark as he’s been before. I have 1.5 hours until I need to head back but it’s so warm I shall see if it’s possible to stay in it!
A large fresh orange juice and a beer are my reward for today. There about 10 people here just having coffee and chilling. It’s so quiet I like it!! Message from mum and I catch up with mark as he’s been before. I have 1.5 hours until I need to head back but it’s so warm I shall see if it’s possible to stay in it!
It’s going to be almost 3 hours on the bus and there are varied reports on ability to get over the border. The website that, on the whole has been almost correct on timings, says that it’s possible, but a post in June last year says it’s not so I’m not sure!
I head back to the bus station and grab an ice cream from the shop I was in earlier. They’re not generous on the scoops, British style, and what i’ve notice here lots, it’s a controlled portion!!! Unlike previous experiences of Bulgaria etc!! It’s also not very good and again I’ve been put off ice cream until next trip!!
Ok. Off for that bus. There’s a few of us waiting. I can tell as platform 11 & 9 have buses at then and there’s a crowd standing around. I have a seat so will head for it if I can find the numbers or see them!!
I am looking forward to the scenery here too and will try not to sleep too much of it!!
I’ve liked Skopje. It’s another small city, in that most important things can be seen in a short space of time and easily. People are friendly and obviously the weather helps!! It’s worth a cheap chill out weekend and there’s certainly more I could do. Mum and Dad maybe even be persuaded to visit some farms...... maybe this is Oliver’s next challenge!
Here it is and it’s a minibus. Hopefully speedy!! It’s not full but probably picking up and dropping off. I’m starting to feel very warm on my shoulders where the sun has hit and the backpack has rubbed!! My ticket is closely looked at by the driver, either I’m on the wrong bus Bhutan he can’t say that, or I’m not getting off where he expects!! Anyway, I nod off pretty well immediately and miss most of the leaving of Skopje! I woken by the small of smoke (cigarette) and the bus not moving. It appears we’re stopped on the side of the motorway but I’ve missed a reason!! We are sitting for about 5 minutes when the back door opens and someone says something and everyone looks round! Still none the wiser, then suddenly the driver and his mates get back on with their cans of red bull and off we go. Not far down the road there’s tolls so I wonder if we’d been speeding but really in the minibus!?!?
I’m passing more scarred mountains. I’m not not convinced it’s snow and this afternoons conversation makes me convinced it’s earthquake damage or such. Then I decide again it’s snow!! And by the look of the map I’m almost directly below my trip yesterday!
There appear to be tolls every 10 or so miles; but he’s fast through them! I think this is the lost efficient journey so far and I’ve done a few. So I’m back to scarring on the mountains / hills and tried to take photos for you to decide!! May have to go for a google and see what maps say!!!
It’s still 30degree out and it’s hot inside with no air con and only a roof vent open! He has bling lights but no air con!!
I head back to the bus station and grab an ice cream from the shop I was in earlier. They’re not generous on the scoops, British style, and what i’ve notice here lots, it’s a controlled portion!!! Unlike previous experiences of Bulgaria etc!! It’s also not very good and again I’ve been put off ice cream until next trip!!
Ok. Off for that bus. There’s a few of us waiting. I can tell as platform 11 & 9 have buses at then and there’s a crowd standing around. I have a seat so will head for it if I can find the numbers or see them!!
I am looking forward to the scenery here too and will try not to sleep too much of it!!
I’ve liked Skopje. It’s another small city, in that most important things can be seen in a short space of time and easily. People are friendly and obviously the weather helps!! It’s worth a cheap chill out weekend and there’s certainly more I could do. Mum and Dad maybe even be persuaded to visit some farms...... maybe this is Oliver’s next challenge!
Here it is and it’s a minibus. Hopefully speedy!! It’s not full but probably picking up and dropping off. I’m starting to feel very warm on my shoulders where the sun has hit and the backpack has rubbed!! My ticket is closely looked at by the driver, either I’m on the wrong bus Bhutan he can’t say that, or I’m not getting off where he expects!! Anyway, I nod off pretty well immediately and miss most of the leaving of Skopje! I woken by the small of smoke (cigarette) and the bus not moving. It appears we’re stopped on the side of the motorway but I’ve missed a reason!! We are sitting for about 5 minutes when the back door opens and someone says something and everyone looks round! Still none the wiser, then suddenly the driver and his mates get back on with their cans of red bull and off we go. Not far down the road there’s tolls so I wonder if we’d been speeding but really in the minibus!?!?
I’m passing more scarred mountains. I’m not not convinced it’s snow and this afternoons conversation makes me convinced it’s earthquake damage or such. Then I decide again it’s snow!! And by the look of the map I’m almost directly below my trip yesterday!
There appear to be tolls every 10 or so miles; but he’s fast through them! I think this is the lost efficient journey so far and I’ve done a few. So I’m back to scarring on the mountains / hills and tried to take photos for you to decide!! May have to go for a google and see what maps say!!!
It’s still 30degree out and it’s hot inside with no air con and only a roof vent open! He has bling lights but no air con!!
We pass adverts for ski centre Mavrovo in their national park. Worth checking out!! Traffic lights!!! Another stop, but bus driver doesn’t get out this time!! It’s bridge upgrades by the look of it! Not too long to wait and you can tell he’s done these bends a few times, mobile Phone in right hand cornering in left!!! Couple of miles along we stop at more lights but the road is excellent! Sadly the bus is full and jumping between sides is not possible but now views are on the opposite side! We stop...... yeah..... and there’s a restaurant, petrol station etc..... Top of the pass..... and no viewpoint!!! How funny. I try to grab photos through the trees but it’s the wrong light. I get talking to Diu, he lives in Struga and reassured me I can get a bus tomorrow. He is accompanying a nun who sits opposite me, and I think does not appreciate I am looking at the view as she keeps starting at me!!! I buy some water and head to the bus. The bus driver calls me over...... “why country you”? I hesitate and respond ‘me?’ “Da”. Scotland and he is very excited. He I think comments that it is cold I think as he rubs his arms. I say here is beautiful but no view. I think he won’t get that, but politely nods!! Back on the bus he offers me a seat at the front behind him but my backpack is at the back so I need to get it and we want to go. I am stunned at the friendliness of people in comparison to my previous trip. It’s like it was in Taiwan where everyone wants to chat and try their English! I have found England, as usual does not get as excited response and most I have spoken to have been watching the Scottish independence thing. Oliver earlier explained the countries annoyance at FYROM as their name enforced he says on them by the EU. This explained the protest I saw before.
Suddenly we’re out of the views and back on the flat, speeding along again. People have woken up and now lots of chatting!! The more I think about it I’m sure Mark said this about the area when he and Charlie were cycling through. I must check again with him!
It looks a new highway is being built along the level above us although I guess also it could be a railway but regardless transport links maybe being upgraded too. It appears to have 2 lanes but still could be rail. Down the winding road and suddenly we join it...... so bus transport will be more efficient in a few years!!
Not long and we hit more farmed land and popular trees! Then there’s the lake. The sun is going down behind my mountains and I’ve just missed the last of it but sunset should be good when I get in! The lake is not built around as close as many would and I can see large green healthy grasses in it. My hotel is a couple of streets back from it and I am aware Ohrid is the place to be but I wasn’t sure if time and connections so will be on the return list!
It looks a new highway is being built along the level above us although I guess also it could be a railway but regardless transport links maybe being upgraded too. It appears to have 2 lanes but still could be rail. Down the winding road and suddenly we join it...... so bus transport will be more efficient in a few years!!
Not long and we hit more farmed land and popular trees! Then there’s the lake. The sun is going down behind my mountains and I’ve just missed the last of it but sunset should be good when I get in! The lake is not built around as close as many would and I can see large green healthy grasses in it. My hotel is a couple of streets back from it and I am aware Ohrid is the place to be but I wasn’t sure if time and connections so will be on the return list!
Day 4: To Albania
I waken at 0630, it’s been a cold night and I’ve tried to keep under cover as at least 4 mosquitos want my blood!! Shower and downstairs for coffee. The WiFi is very poor so maybe better down there, but no, equally bad and problematic. I attempt to upload bits but it’s taking so long so I’m going to leave and see the town and find WiFi I hope on the way.
Straight to the lake and stunning morning. A couple of swans are enjoying it and there are people fishing. A short walk and a chat in german with an old guy put for his morning walk ego is surprised I speak german, but it’s time for that coffee stop. Sadly although WiFi is around that don’t have any. Strange for a place these days! I order a slice of cake from
Struga. It’s got an apricot flavour with lots of nuts too and not as sweet as i expected so compliments the coffee!
Straight to the lake and stunning morning. A couple of swans are enjoying it and there are people fishing. A short walk and a chat in german with an old guy put for his morning walk ego is surprised I speak german, but it’s time for that coffee stop. Sadly although WiFi is around that don’t have any. Strange for a place these days! I order a slice of cake from
Struga. It’s got an apricot flavour with lots of nuts too and not as sweet as i expected so compliments the coffee!
Best keep moving so down into town and towards what I hope is the bus station... it was a little unclear from the discussions last night but I think as people did not speak much English so I’ll head where I thought it was from my research. It’s about 1.5km away from the lake.
I head off through the town which is only just waking up, with the river lined with chairs and tables. I notice the water comes out of the lake and into it, interesting undercurrents I’m sure and it’s fast moving.
I head off through the town which is only just waking up, with the river lined with chairs and tables. I notice the water comes out of the lake and into it, interesting undercurrents I’m sure and it’s fast moving.
The bus station is easy find and they have poor WiFi. I’m hassled again by Taxi drives offering me €30 to Elbasan. I say yesterday it was €14, but bus is good enough and less concernable! The bus is at 0930 so all good but the ticket is €12 so almost thinking better to have taken last nights offer, but I would only do with other people. I can message Sonila that I will meet in Elbasan to let her know. Coffee and chill!! Frustratingly the bus is late at still not here by 10am! There are about 25 people waiting so maybe a slow border crossing. I chat to a German guy who is travelling through from here to Corfu. The bus arrives just after 10am and people pile on. As we get on the driver takes our passports so will see how this customs works! The bus seats are almost too reclined if you don’t want to sleep!! It may not be a comfortable journey!!!
The border is not far and we get our passports returned just in advance of arrival. 1025 we are at the border and off the driver assistant goes to give in the paperwork. It’s a familiar process.....stage 1 complete, onto inspection and passport retrieval by customs....the guy beside me is Philippino so he gets a good inspection of all his pages before I can hand mine over. Driver returns and passports at 1033, recollected at 1035 by Albania (first the Japanese and Philippino people then the more European looking), and returned at 1045! Not too bad!!
I finish yesterday’s lunch pastry eventually!!
The border is not far and we get our passports returned just in advance of arrival. 1025 we are at the border and off the driver assistant goes to give in the paperwork. It’s a familiar process.....stage 1 complete, onto inspection and passport retrieval by customs....the guy beside me is Philippino so he gets a good inspection of all his pages before I can hand mine over. Driver returns and passports at 1033, recollected at 1035 by Albania (first the Japanese and Philippino people then the more European looking), and returned at 1045! Not too bad!!
I finish yesterday’s lunch pastry eventually!!