Serbia #76
So off again and it’s the (almost) last of Europe with only Belarus as the large missing landmark of the area.
This trip involves a whizz through Serbia stopping in Belgrade and Nis, then onto Kosovo: Prishtina and Prizren and an early start to head to Skopje and then on to Struga at Lake Orhid in Macedonia and finally to finish in Albania visiting Elbasan and Tirana at least. Sadly my forecast is of severe flash flood risks, so the transport I’m going to use as escapes from downpours, but will see how that pans out!!
We do take off eventually, at 2300 and the 2h20m flight is a little bumpy but not too bad. On arrival into Belgrade the landscape at 0115 looks quite flat at this part, lights far into the distance. The bigger bonus is it’s dry!!! Forecast now for sunny and hot weather, Long may that continue!!! The girl beside me is coming to travel the old Yugoslavia area but in the rush to get off I lose her so onwards to the passport.... It’s not a small airport by my standards of small, but there’s no one else arriving so passport was ok and takes only 5 minutes. I wind my way out of customs and straight to money exchange. I’ll change €40 for now as the last bus has gone (0200 and it’s 0235) and I’m on a taxi to town. I head to the Taxi desk and the price is given to me on a slip of paper....1850....... turns out to be about £15 into centre. ‘Head straight for the next Taxi’!
This trip involves a whizz through Serbia stopping in Belgrade and Nis, then onto Kosovo: Prishtina and Prizren and an early start to head to Skopje and then on to Struga at Lake Orhid in Macedonia and finally to finish in Albania visiting Elbasan and Tirana at least. Sadly my forecast is of severe flash flood risks, so the transport I’m going to use as escapes from downpours, but will see how that pans out!!
We do take off eventually, at 2300 and the 2h20m flight is a little bumpy but not too bad. On arrival into Belgrade the landscape at 0115 looks quite flat at this part, lights far into the distance. The bigger bonus is it’s dry!!! Forecast now for sunny and hot weather, Long may that continue!!! The girl beside me is coming to travel the old Yugoslavia area but in the rush to get off I lose her so onwards to the passport.... It’s not a small airport by my standards of small, but there’s no one else arriving so passport was ok and takes only 5 minutes. I wind my way out of customs and straight to money exchange. I’ll change €40 for now as the last bus has gone (0200 and it’s 0235) and I’m on a taxi to town. I head to the Taxi desk and the price is given to me on a slip of paper....1850....... turns out to be about £15 into centre. ‘Head straight for the next Taxi’!
That I do and Milan is the result. A 43 year old man who had spent his first 7 years in Birmingham while his father worked in engineering having moved there from Edinburgh!! He’s very chatty and proudly a Serbian Macedonian with strong opinions of my trip to ‘kosovo’ relaying storied if the population boom in Albanian Muslims since 1937 (4%) to 1977 (78%) and our (British) financial support of their system and their wishes. He’s a well travelled person who has done 7 North Africa countries, various middle eastern and most of Europe plus South Korea. I think I maybe ahead of him but only just....... as he drops me off he gives me his number and tells me o contact him Of any problems, questions or help. It’s a shame, he was just starting to explain how he loves the Scottish people!!!
Arrival at number 30 presents me with a range of doorbells none of which look like the Cyrillic's of HVRM rooms...... it’s 0340 and as I’m deciding who to wake first a man talks at me saying floor one..... phew! Off I go and he’s at floor 2...... never mind. He’s a tall, very pale looking middle aged man, speaks basic but enough English and shows me my room, the family bathroom and gives me keys, however I explain that I’ll be leaving about 0730 so will not need to take them with me. I pay up, I dont have 1500rsd but he accepts 1450rsd! It’s obviously a family apartment by the amount of washing in the small corridor but the bed is comfy even if there is a subtle smell of cigarette smoke in the air. My mind is still on work and it’s 0400 so not sure how much sleep will be achieved, but I am on a bus for a while tomorrow so can be regained there if scenery not great!!
Arrival at number 30 presents me with a range of doorbells none of which look like the Cyrillic's of HVRM rooms...... it’s 0340 and as I’m deciding who to wake first a man talks at me saying floor one..... phew! Off I go and he’s at floor 2...... never mind. He’s a tall, very pale looking middle aged man, speaks basic but enough English and shows me my room, the family bathroom and gives me keys, however I explain that I’ll be leaving about 0730 so will not need to take them with me. I pay up, I dont have 1500rsd but he accepts 1450rsd! It’s obviously a family apartment by the amount of washing in the small corridor but the bed is comfy even if there is a subtle smell of cigarette smoke in the air. My mind is still on work and it’s 0400 so not sure how much sleep will be achieved, but I am on a bus for a while tomorrow so can be regained there if scenery not great!!
Belgrade
Well it’s a short night sleep and I’m off exploring in the already sunny and warm morning. It’s peaceful around here, little noise and traffic which is lovely. First stop just up the road to the st Sava Cathedral, honoured to the saint born on my birthday as the taxi driver excitedly told me last night!! The largest cathedral in the Balkans after its consecration in 2004, 15 years after completion. The small area chapel buildings around it I think are still being built!!
It’s then onto the city centre. The streets are full of coffee shops and at 0920 it’s hot!!
Time for coffee stop and upload the first part!
It’s then onto the city centre. The streets are full of coffee shops and at 0920 it’s hot!!
Time for coffee stop and upload the first part!
There’s a tour free being run...... there’s only 1 person waiting and as I’m trying to grab last of WiFi and am obviously standing at the meeting point. It’ll be 2-2.5 hours so let’s enjoy the local knowledge.
So Ana myself and Marie a Canadian at the end of this part of her European tour, wander off. Ana is full of information and facts. We are in revolution square and looking at the national museum which Ana tells us has been closed for 20 years but may open next month..... she recalls it from being a child and it’s contents include Monet and such paintings and over 4000 artefacts. Infront is a statue of a man on a horse.... welcome to prince Michael. The statue is positioned in the place where we’re told a gate stood which was used like a traitors gate, but signifies the start of the road to Istanbul. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Republic_Square_(Belgrade). The national theatre is built of the stone from this when it was pulled down in 1866 as finances did not allow new stone to be used .... thus called blood stone.
So Ana myself and Marie a Canadian at the end of this part of her European tour, wander off. Ana is full of information and facts. We are in revolution square and looking at the national museum which Ana tells us has been closed for 20 years but may open next month..... she recalls it from being a child and it’s contents include Monet and such paintings and over 4000 artefacts. Infront is a statue of a man on a horse.... welcome to prince Michael. The statue is positioned in the place where we’re told a gate stood which was used like a traitors gate, but signifies the start of the road to Istanbul. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Republic_Square_(Belgrade). The national theatre is built of the stone from this when it was pulled down in 1866 as finances did not allow new stone to be used .... thus called blood stone.
We head down the road and into the bohemian area for want of a better expression. First impressions are the amazing colour of the trailing petunias from the first restaurant. There’s a cobbled Street, slightly less organised than Kelso but still nice to feel under feet!! This was once a gypsy area serving alcohol to entice people into their street stalls, however over time it became a and when they left the poets and artists moved in and would meet and drink in the area. The most famous of these was Dura Jaksic Who lived here and died here having drunk away his earnings! His statue remains his legacy to the area.
Round the corner is a street with painted walls on the outside. This is an old brewery we are informed and when the owner sold it to the government and it was taken over it had been left empty and so in the 1990s it was taken on and bars, night clubs and coffee houses moved in and a local artist painted it up to look like a brewery street. Opposite is a primary school!!
We move on down ‘silicon’ street as this was the rich hang out and would attract the women in the 90’s with the silicone enhancement!!! It’s got a few coffee places but nothing as nice as the flowery area we’ve just visited. Opposite is a ‘green market’ recommended for a visit next trip. Noted!!
We pop into a great wee cafe bar with a tuskless mammoth hanging from a tree we’re told. It’s a good night spot too Ana says.
Onwards to a school built in the typical ottoman look with 2 floors, sign of a rich Turk!!
We wander through the streets and come across a small bakery. Ana recommends the pastry and as none of us have eaten it’s a great option.
We pop into a great wee cafe bar with a tuskless mammoth hanging from a tree we’re told. It’s a good night spot too Ana says.
Onwards to a school built in the typical ottoman look with 2 floors, sign of a rich Turk!!
We wander through the streets and come across a small bakery. Ana recommends the pastry and as none of us have eaten it’s a great option.
The pastries are in thin rolls and you pay by the gram. I get a mixture, chicken, spinach and meat. They’re filling!!
We head to the fort. I’m expecting a small area with lots of ruins, like seen in many other places but this is lovely. It’s got a very sociable feel to it and is setting up for what looks like a good festival. It’s called Manifest and has a caged lettering with people placing empty cans for recycling in it to make it up
We can see the delta of the Danube and the Sava and it’s a lovely unspoilt view. My blues Danube always brings nice places!!! There’s a man Made island infront of us causing a fork in the river. You can tell this has been an important and optimal position for centuries .
Back through the fort to the cathedral we pass groups of kids wandering with school trips around the park / fort area. It’s a lovely chilled feeling.
The cathedral is a large building near the palace which itself is understated. Then the final main event is the first coffee house in Europe..... opposite the cathedral and called ‘?’ The story was that it wanted to be called one name to do with the cathedral but it was protested about and the result was the ‘?’ Ana leaves us at a recommended restaurant and Marie and I decide to pop for lunch. However I am still filled from the pastry so a liquid lunch is my enjoyment. Marie orders a courgette and cheese salad. On arrival it is raw courgette and a cottage cheese type cheese and lots of garlic somewhere. Interesting but not as exciting as expected!
I’ve checked my bus times and I need to leave so I bid farewell to my morning companion and head off to find the bus station.
The cathedral is a large building near the palace which itself is understated. Then the final main event is the first coffee house in Europe..... opposite the cathedral and called ‘?’ The story was that it wanted to be called one name to do with the cathedral but it was protested about and the result was the ‘?’ Ana leaves us at a recommended restaurant and Marie and I decide to pop for lunch. However I am still filled from the pastry so a liquid lunch is my enjoyment. Marie orders a courgette and cheese salad. On arrival it is raw courgette and a cottage cheese type cheese and lots of garlic somewhere. Interesting but not as exciting as expected!
I’ve checked my bus times and I need to leave so I bid farewell to my morning companion and head off to find the bus station.
A wrong road and a wrong bus station means I arrive at 2pm and buy my ticket as the 2pm bus departs, so I have 20 minutes to wait. It’s not too long and I still have sun so I’m happy!! The fight to get on the bus is silly especially as we have seats which the numbers have been rubbed off. I sit where I’m directed and the ensuing discussion I can not understand so ignore. We all have a seat!!!!
It’s a 3 hour journey and through reasonably flat countryside with lots of agriculture. As we approach Nis the mountains are visible in the distance. Tomorrow!!
It’s a 3 hour journey and through reasonably flat countryside with lots of agriculture. As we approach Nis the mountains are visible in the distance. Tomorrow!!
Nis bus station is just along from the fort so I head straight there as it’s 5pm. It’s free entry again and once again seems like a place to meet and socialise. In the ruins of the thermal baths from Roman times, there a sectioned bar, why not!! It’s a different use and I like it. I wander through the fort area as people are sitting enjoying the view and the sun.
Then over the river and into town. First thing to hit me is the H&M so it got foot fall!! The pedestrian area is very walkable and lots of nice designer small shops. There’s bars in the centre and it feels an easy place to enjoy. First things.... get rid of the bag.... find the apartment!!
I wander through the main area and find the apartment. It’s got a Greek guy staying there also Who has been travelling through much of mainland Southern Europe. He’s an ex basket ball player and has been in Belgrade to watch the final 4 competition. He’s going to chill tonight and head off exploring tomorrow, a luxury I have not given myself!!
Then over the river and into town. First thing to hit me is the H&M so it got foot fall!! The pedestrian area is very walkable and lots of nice designer small shops. There’s bars in the centre and it feels an easy place to enjoy. First things.... get rid of the bag.... find the apartment!!
I wander through the main area and find the apartment. It’s got a Greek guy staying there also Who has been travelling through much of mainland Southern Europe. He’s an ex basket ball player and has been in Belgrade to watch the final 4 competition. He’s going to chill tonight and head off exploring tomorrow, a luxury I have not given myself!!
I’m off to find a street recommended at the tourist place. It’s an old area for bars and socialising. There’s big grey clouds hanging overhead so not venturing too far but it’s a busy little area. My wander over and a feeling if imminent rain I head into the Tesla bar for a beer. The waitress is lovely and speaks very good English. As the rain outer down we chat lots about finances here (basic rate €1 per hour if lucky) and her intention of moving from the countryside to city to find a management position. She heads off to serve and comes back to chat. The rain stops as I order a local white wine. It’s very young reisling but nice. I need to head off so I pay up and bid farewell to my evening friend Ana, we have Facebook contact now!. Time for solids!!
A quick crevice and its home for the night and bed!! My accomodation mate is in his room playing classical music so I head to bed and am ready for tomorrow. Serbia I’ve loved you!!
A quick crevice and its home for the night and bed!! My accomodation mate is in his room playing classical music so I head to bed and am ready for tomorrow. Serbia I’ve loved you!!
Day 2... to Kosovo
Alarm at 0600 and it’s already sunny, although I’m facing the wrong way to make most of it!! Prishtina here I come!!
I’m 10minute walk to the bus station and have controversial information on time of my bus, website before told me 0700 and now claims it’s a 0800 departure but I’m taking no chance and heading for the 0700 option.
I pick up a pastry for the journey as this is all that’s available and head to get the ticket. The office is open and I have seat number 1 from platform 14 in 20 minutes. Private journey!?!? Coffee time!!! There’s lots of people in the bus station and it’s already 20 degrees!! Only a couple of people are hanging around platform 14 and as the bus arrives all 3 of ya head towards it.....
I’m 10minute walk to the bus station and have controversial information on time of my bus, website before told me 0700 and now claims it’s a 0800 departure but I’m taking no chance and heading for the 0700 option.
I pick up a pastry for the journey as this is all that’s available and head to get the ticket. The office is open and I have seat number 1 from platform 14 in 20 minutes. Private journey!?!? Coffee time!!! There’s lots of people in the bus station and it’s already 20 degrees!! Only a couple of people are hanging around platform 14 and as the bus arrives all 3 of ya head towards it.....
there’s a local guy, a Spanish guy and myself, and the bus ticket tells me I’m going to Gracanica so the Spanish guy double checks (is read that this was what was said on the ticket, and the sign on the front does say Prishtina first!). All aboard and already uncertainty on the seats. There’s a clip board on one of the front seats, and I sit opposite. Spanish guy has seat 3..... he moves the clipboard to sit down and starts the chaos. Not sure what it’s about and I offer to move back a row but am told it’s ok. The Spanish guy is by now filling writing on the clip board, he thought that’s what the driver was saying, turns out it’s the border paperwork, and I think the driver is pleased he is taking initiative. We all produce id and then off we go.
I get chatting to the Spanish guy who is a tour guide working on trips to Iran and south amaeica mainly. He is couch surfing around the area and in 3 weeks has not paid for accomodation. He’s very positive about this concept Which o was aware of but am unsure of its safety. I’m reassured by the volume it’s being used and ability to view feedback etc. Add to list to look at. People had taken him around areas, cooked local food etc and obviously been full of local information for him. Sounds amazing way to see places. He’s travelled lots and is fascinating to listen to.
The bus stops off at a bakery for the guys to get their pastries, and later at a petrol station on the middle of nowhere!!! We pick up randomly on the way so eventually when heading to the border there are about 8 of us.
I get chatting to the Spanish guy who is a tour guide working on trips to Iran and south amaeica mainly. He is couch surfing around the area and in 3 weeks has not paid for accomodation. He’s very positive about this concept Which o was aware of but am unsure of its safety. I’m reassured by the volume it’s being used and ability to view feedback etc. Add to list to look at. People had taken him around areas, cooked local food etc and obviously been full of local information for him. Sounds amazing way to see places. He’s travelled lots and is fascinating to listen to.
The bus stops off at a bakery for the guys to get their pastries, and later at a petrol station on the middle of nowhere!!! We pick up randomly on the way so eventually when heading to the border there are about 8 of us.
Heading towards the border the road becomes more potholes and there are lots of small farms again. The guy chatting to the driver keeps tutting, not sure what about!!! There’s signs of small landslides and recent rain.
It’s a twisting road to the border and lovely rolling hills.
Lots of lorry’s are waiting to cross. We discuss the interest that it’s a very clear stop border and there are new lanes being built so obviously it’s to increase in size or improvements are being made. The police come on and take our passports etc. About 5 minutes later they are returned, first the ID cards and then the 3 passports, 1 Czech, 1 Spanish and mine! Only 20m and it’s the next border with the passports re-taken by their control officer. The border section is massively being upgraded from a log cabin to a large building we now can see on the Kosovo side! Another 5 minutes and all returned!! Off we go.... Kosovo hello
It’s a twisting road to the border and lovely rolling hills.
Lots of lorry’s are waiting to cross. We discuss the interest that it’s a very clear stop border and there are new lanes being built so obviously it’s to increase in size or improvements are being made. The police come on and take our passports etc. About 5 minutes later they are returned, first the ID cards and then the 3 passports, 1 Czech, 1 Spanish and mine! Only 20m and it’s the next border with the passports re-taken by their control officer. The border section is massively being upgraded from a log cabin to a large building we now can see on the Kosovo side! Another 5 minutes and all returned!! Off we go.... Kosovo hello