Slovakia to Slovenia
So a need to pick up curling shoes in Budapest before Ljubljana competition next weekend and to escape for Easter I’ve taken the cheapest flight I could find to this region, and ended up in Kosice for £14 from Southend on a Ryanair new route.
Kosice
We arrive early and as the only flight coming in, the airport is quiet and passport is fast, so a bonus. As you exit you realise the hills and mountains surround you, none snow capped but still an array of sizes in the distance. It’s a little like Ljubljana but not quite as stunning.
Outside the bus stop for the number 23 into town has an English sign on it telling me that you buy your ticket from the machine for €0.6 or on the bus for €1! I’ve 20 minutes to wait in the sun so buy my ticket and am soon joined at the bus stop by 2 others who are here to go hiking in the hills in Romania. Then another couple arrive to ask about getting tickets. Despite most coming and reading the information it appears only I bought a ticket and when the girl asked about tickets only I knew the process, so suddenly I was alone again at the bus stop with everyone’s baggage!!
On the bus, we all confidently stamp out tickets in the automated machine and off into town. By now it’s a lovely conversation between us all. One couple here to hike for 5 days having found an addiction to this and also found the cheap flight which directed their plans similar to the other couple who just wanted 5 days or rest and relaxation and liked the photos.
The journey is only about 15 minutes and we all disembark before the final stop, and the end of the main street which contains most of the things to see architecturally. We part ways and I head off.
I’ve chosen my hostel as it’s close to the station but the walk from here will take me in the general direction of it too so can see the sights before the sun goes (it’s 1745). As it’s the Thursday before Good Friday the church bells are ringing out everywhere. It’s nice, sun shining, wide pedestrian streets with filled bars and cafes spilling into them; a very laid back atmosphere with beer and ice cream being the main diet at this hour!!
Outside the bus stop for the number 23 into town has an English sign on it telling me that you buy your ticket from the machine for €0.6 or on the bus for €1! I’ve 20 minutes to wait in the sun so buy my ticket and am soon joined at the bus stop by 2 others who are here to go hiking in the hills in Romania. Then another couple arrive to ask about getting tickets. Despite most coming and reading the information it appears only I bought a ticket and when the girl asked about tickets only I knew the process, so suddenly I was alone again at the bus stop with everyone’s baggage!!
On the bus, we all confidently stamp out tickets in the automated machine and off into town. By now it’s a lovely conversation between us all. One couple here to hike for 5 days having found an addiction to this and also found the cheap flight which directed their plans similar to the other couple who just wanted 5 days or rest and relaxation and liked the photos.
The journey is only about 15 minutes and we all disembark before the final stop, and the end of the main street which contains most of the things to see architecturally. We part ways and I head off.
I’ve chosen my hostel as it’s close to the station but the walk from here will take me in the general direction of it too so can see the sights before the sun goes (it’s 1745). As it’s the Thursday before Good Friday the church bells are ringing out everywhere. It’s nice, sun shining, wide pedestrian streets with filled bars and cafes spilling into them; a very laid back atmosphere with beer and ice cream being the main diet at this hour!!
The buildings are very impressive and clean, again I’m unsure of a recent investment or just a lack of pollution keeping it such, however maybe it’s ‘European City of Culture 2013’ helped with the need for work. There are underground tunnels, now walkways, and 2 gothic churches, along with many baroque buildings. Sadly the ‘singing fountain’ is not up and running yet, so that’s on the ‘next time’ list!!
I head to my hostel and a quick check in ensures I can keep going!! I head back along the top area of town and then back down the main high street.
I am very aware that my last Slovakia trip was before I was sending the country collection post cards to my niece Alice, to find on her granny globe, so I need to try to find one as I leave at 0600 tomorrow and everything will be closed for Good Friday.
I wander down the Main Street, the younger people are wandering around eating slices of pizza, beer is still very much on the menu and cakes with the kids. I head into a cake shop and there’s quite a variety but nothing I’ve not seen before but the smell of sweetness is very strong! Wow!!
Mission focus: post cards, and luckily as I thought everything was closed, I find 1 souvenirs shop with them and he has stamps also. Job done and little surprised that a postcard within Europe is €1.2!! I am totally out of date as to the cost of post in uk though, buying blocks of stamps and just contactless paying without calculating, so maybe it’s about the same!?!?
Now to find a place to write it and have some food. The Main Street seems to favour burgers and pizza, beer food, but I’m unsure that’s what I wish, so onwards. I take a sidestreet and find it lined with Vietnamese places, all closing as it’s 1900h and they’re really quiet. This was not the cuisine I expected to find here!
I’m heading in the direction now if the station so I’ll pop there and see if I can get my ticket for tomorrow in case it’s not open and I have to figure out on a machine!! I pass the supermarket, closing now also and not open tomorrow so good to know.
I wander down the Main Street, the younger people are wandering around eating slices of pizza, beer is still very much on the menu and cakes with the kids. I head into a cake shop and there’s quite a variety but nothing I’ve not seen before but the smell of sweetness is very strong! Wow!!
Mission focus: post cards, and luckily as I thought everything was closed, I find 1 souvenirs shop with them and he has stamps also. Job done and little surprised that a postcard within Europe is €1.2!! I am totally out of date as to the cost of post in uk though, buying blocks of stamps and just contactless paying without calculating, so maybe it’s about the same!?!?
Now to find a place to write it and have some food. The Main Street seems to favour burgers and pizza, beer food, but I’m unsure that’s what I wish, so onwards. I take a sidestreet and find it lined with Vietnamese places, all closing as it’s 1900h and they’re really quiet. This was not the cuisine I expected to find here!
I’m heading in the direction now if the station so I’ll pop there and see if I can get my ticket for tomorrow in case it’s not open and I have to figure out on a machine!! I pass the supermarket, closing now also and not open tomorrow so good to know.
The station is also, like many in cities, a shopping area too containing Lidl, coffee shops and alcohol outlets. I pop into Lidl to collect some fruit for tomorrow as I leave in the morning before it may open ( nothing says they are closed tomorrow, but if it is it opens as my train leaves).
Ticket is also simple, I have the information on the route on a photo on my phone and as the lady speaks no English, except “no English” I show her and a ticket is provided! Debrecen here I come to start with! My ultimate destination tomorrow is budapest but not until evening I think so I’ll start with this trip. There’s only 2 trains out, one at 0602 and one 12 hours later, so limited choices!
Back through the park, the hostel from this route is only 6 minutes away. The parks ponds are still empty and although the girl in the hostel told me it would be closed tomorrow when I leave the electronic information boards tell me otherwise and it’s open from 0500. I’ll take no chances though and plan to walk round it, which is only a few minutes more.
I return to the hostel to find my roommate already in bed asleep, it’s 20:15! Annoyingly everything I need is in plastic..... I end up taking my backpack outside again to get the bits and minimise the noise. She however wakens as I am settling to write my postcard and we start chatting. She’s from Hong Kong and left her nursing job to travel for 4 months through Europe and meeting her family in July in Turkey. She’s been through Norway and Denmark then come here now and hopes to cover Vienna and then she’s not sure. I obviously provide lots of encouragement from Western Europe and Slovenia as options too, she’s not considered them, so I get to show her photos of options!! It leaves her with much to contemplate, rule in not out was my theory!!
We both settle and as we are starting to nod off another room mate arrives, and bangs into place, although it is only 22:00!! Again as nodding off and the new person settled again the door opens, light on this time and in comes another, who will be on the bed above me. The beds are sadly very squeaky and so that’s all of us awake again. Joys of a shared situation!! All settle eventually.
Ticket is also simple, I have the information on the route on a photo on my phone and as the lady speaks no English, except “no English” I show her and a ticket is provided! Debrecen here I come to start with! My ultimate destination tomorrow is budapest but not until evening I think so I’ll start with this trip. There’s only 2 trains out, one at 0602 and one 12 hours later, so limited choices!
Back through the park, the hostel from this route is only 6 minutes away. The parks ponds are still empty and although the girl in the hostel told me it would be closed tomorrow when I leave the electronic information boards tell me otherwise and it’s open from 0500. I’ll take no chances though and plan to walk round it, which is only a few minutes more.
I return to the hostel to find my roommate already in bed asleep, it’s 20:15! Annoyingly everything I need is in plastic..... I end up taking my backpack outside again to get the bits and minimise the noise. She however wakens as I am settling to write my postcard and we start chatting. She’s from Hong Kong and left her nursing job to travel for 4 months through Europe and meeting her family in July in Turkey. She’s been through Norway and Denmark then come here now and hopes to cover Vienna and then she’s not sure. I obviously provide lots of encouragement from Western Europe and Slovenia as options too, she’s not considered them, so I get to show her photos of options!! It leaves her with much to contemplate, rule in not out was my theory!!
We both settle and as we are starting to nod off another room mate arrives, and bangs into place, although it is only 22:00!! Again as nodding off and the new person settled again the door opens, light on this time and in comes another, who will be on the bed above me. The beds are sadly very squeaky and so that’s all of us awake again. Joys of a shared situation!! All settle eventually.
Day 2: to Budapest via Debrecen and Eger
So my lovely bunk mate has an alarm go off at 03:45 and seems to waken most of us except them. It the takes them (never saw if male or female!), another 10 minutes of repacking in the room before they leave, but then it’s banging around outside. I’ve woken enough that I don’t get back to sleep so get up and head on my way with a more leisurely shower and re-pack.
The park is open so I wander through passing only 1 other person, and arrive early at the station which tells me it’s 5 degrees this morning!
The train station has a coffee and sandwich place open, and of course the alcohol shop, with my train leaving from platform 1 I have time to grab a (very watery) espresso and a sandwich. Maybe need to do me for the day!!
There’s a little self confusion as I follow signs for platform 1 then on the platform find a train on either side, and ‘rail 13 and 14’ above them. After a little double checking I think I’m on the correct train!!
There’s seat reservations but I am not seeming a seat number on my ticket so I take a spot in a place that’s got no paper information on it. They are 6 seated booths and there 1 other in at present. No one else joins as we leave so let’s see. The train is going to budapest but I’ll change on the way in Miskolc in 1.5 hours.
The park is open so I wander through passing only 1 other person, and arrive early at the station which tells me it’s 5 degrees this morning!
The train station has a coffee and sandwich place open, and of course the alcohol shop, with my train leaving from platform 1 I have time to grab a (very watery) espresso and a sandwich. Maybe need to do me for the day!!
There’s a little self confusion as I follow signs for platform 1 then on the platform find a train on either side, and ‘rail 13 and 14’ above them. After a little double checking I think I’m on the correct train!!
There’s seat reservations but I am not seeming a seat number on my ticket so I take a spot in a place that’s got no paper information on it. They are 6 seated booths and there 1 other in at present. No one else joins as we leave so let’s see. The train is going to budapest but I’ll change on the way in Miskolc in 1.5 hours.
The sunrise is lovely as we head on and without much notice we stop for a longer stop to find that we are changing crew as in Hungary. That was a simple border!!! 3 young lads get on with their skate boards and join. There’s some problem with their ticket as the guard comes along so there’s a long conversation. Then as soon as she’s left out comes the alcohol, 1 bottle of alcohol being swigged down with the bottle of water while the ones at the door watch out for her return!! Although they’ve gone round 3 times on the swigging there’s very little of the alcohol gone and the water is almost finished. One at least is not impressed with the flavour by his face every time it comes to him!!
The countryside is hilly either side with crops just starting to pop through the cultivated soil, and oil seed rape starting to bloom.
The countryside is hilly either side with crops just starting to pop through the cultivated soil, and oil seed rape starting to bloom.
Sun is shining as we approach my stop, I have 2 minutes to find my next train so this could be fun!! However if I miss the faster one I can get one 10 minutes later but it takes 30 minutes longer!
We arrive 2 minutes early which is good as i disembark from platform 1 I head in to find my next train is from platform 9, but no signs as to where this is. One of the problems with travel is always about correct pronunciation in the language, but when it comes to Hungarian, with names like ‘Nyiregyhaza’ you have to concentrate just to work out the basic pronunciation without the accents etc so I go down the platform and ask (hold up 9 fingers) where to go. He signals over the tracks and as I leave the front of the train I notice there’s a load of platforms so off I head to the furthest one. Spot on time too and we’re off again...... slightly more local type train this one, but clean and comfy and no seat reservations as far as I can see! Oh and I have the breakfast beer people with me!!
The scenery is now flat, agricultural but not so inspiring. My ticket causes issue but I think he’s figured out I maybe don’t speak much of the language and so after 3-4 attempts and a few ‘tuts’ he nods and returns it!! 1 more change to go!!
We head into more vineyard area, a hill breaking the monotony of flat has rows of vines, shall source some samples later with my sommelier Bogi!! Breza Pince I see on a house as we pass by and pull into ah...... Tokaj, they explains it, infamous sweet wine!! No sooner are we through the tiny town, that the hill is gone and it’s back to flat!! Sun shine and light blue skies, I can’t complain!!
We arrive 2 minutes early which is good as i disembark from platform 1 I head in to find my next train is from platform 9, but no signs as to where this is. One of the problems with travel is always about correct pronunciation in the language, but when it comes to Hungarian, with names like ‘Nyiregyhaza’ you have to concentrate just to work out the basic pronunciation without the accents etc so I go down the platform and ask (hold up 9 fingers) where to go. He signals over the tracks and as I leave the front of the train I notice there’s a load of platforms so off I head to the furthest one. Spot on time too and we’re off again...... slightly more local type train this one, but clean and comfy and no seat reservations as far as I can see! Oh and I have the breakfast beer people with me!!
The scenery is now flat, agricultural but not so inspiring. My ticket causes issue but I think he’s figured out I maybe don’t speak much of the language and so after 3-4 attempts and a few ‘tuts’ he nods and returns it!! 1 more change to go!!
We head into more vineyard area, a hill breaking the monotony of flat has rows of vines, shall source some samples later with my sommelier Bogi!! Breza Pince I see on a house as we pass by and pull into ah...... Tokaj, they explains it, infamous sweet wine!! No sooner are we through the tiny town, that the hill is gone and it’s back to flat!! Sun shine and light blue skies, I can’t complain!!
The scenery is now flat, agricultural but not so inspiring. My ticket causes issue but I think he’s figured out I maybe don’t speak much of the language and so after 3-4 attempts and a few ‘tuts’ he nods and returns it!! 1 more change to go!!
We head into more vineyard area, a hill breaking the monotony of flat has rows of vines, shall source some samples later with my sommelier Bogi!! Breza Pince I see on a house as we pass by and pull into ah...... Tokaj, they explains it, infamous sweet wine!! No sooner are we through the tiny town, that the hill is gone and it’s back to flat!! Sun shine and light blue skies, I can’t complain!!
We head into more vineyard area, a hill breaking the monotony of flat has rows of vines, shall source some samples later with my sommelier Bogi!! Breza Pince I see on a house as we pass by and pull into ah...... Tokaj, they explains it, infamous sweet wine!! No sooner are we through the tiny town, that the hill is gone and it’s back to flat!! Sun shine and light blue skies, I can’t complain!!
As we pull into the unpronounceable I realise I need to currency change, it’s Forints now. I have loads from previous trips so swap out the euros. Here there’s 14 minutes to find my next platform to Debrecen. It’s just as well as the doors are not opening so we are all waiting. It takes 3 minutes of waiting but I’m still ok to toilet stop (100Ft @ 370Ft : £1!)
Again into booths and it’s almost empty so I get my own one!! Ticket check and he writes on it this time and we’re speeding through the sunny landscape, still quite flat but less vastness of fields, and more wooded areas. The countryside is waking up and level crossing have cars now at them as we roll past and into Debrecen. It’s 09:30 so off to see what’s open. I intend to have 1.5 hours here only but it’s a city that hosts a curling competition that I’ve promised to undertake so this is a suss out mission!! Again cheap flights come here too!!
Again into booths and it’s almost empty so I get my own one!! Ticket check and he writes on it this time and we’re speeding through the sunny landscape, still quite flat but less vastness of fields, and more wooded areas. The countryside is waking up and level crossing have cars now at them as we roll past and into Debrecen. It’s 09:30 so off to see what’s open. I intend to have 1.5 hours here only but it’s a city that hosts a curling competition that I’ve promised to undertake so this is a suss out mission!! Again cheap flights come here too!!
I arrive and the first thing I notice is the smell of sweet pastry throughout the station!! I go buy my ticket, it appears, like other places, they’ve upgraded their currency notes so my 1000-5000 are not able to be used. I have a 10000 so that’s ok. Bank hopefully open tomorrow to change it over!!!
It’s sunny and nice as I head up towards the main area. There’s a team that goes to the end of the street but it’s easily walkable.
The pedestrian crossing mutters at you as you cross, they change quickly so little waiting and watch out for the bike lanes!!
The pedestrian crossing mutters at you as you cross, they change quickly so little waiting and watch out for the bike lanes!!
As I head up a small street into the mainly pedestrian / tram centre I find cafes starting to set-up.
Into the main square with its memorial to the lost soldiers there’s a calmer feel: although it is a bank holiday!!
A photographic exhibition or promotion is on in the square but with no English txt i struggle to establish its being.
Into the main square with its memorial to the lost soldiers there’s a calmer feel: although it is a bank holiday!!
A photographic exhibition or promotion is on in the square but with no English txt i struggle to establish its being.
I head back down the tree lined street and a sign tells me it’s 19 degrees. I can almost believe it except the next ‘screen’ tells me it’s 2099!!
Further down and there’s photos of the city in the 1950s and it’s not really changed much!
Further down and there’s photos of the city in the 1950s and it’s not really changed much!
Back to sweet smelling station and escape to platform 2 and off to destination 2: Eger. I have a change again on this trip but it’s a long slow one I fear. I am also travelling with a cat on a lead!! It’s a little annoyingly noisy and unsettled trying to climb the seats and into the baggage racks!
I’d picked up a piece of pizza with little savoury non pastry option available, and find the (what I though) tomato purée on the top is actually tomato ketchup..... quite a shock but i know some people who’d not complain!! It’s not eaten more than this.... not worth it!!
I’d picked up a piece of pizza with little savoury non pastry option available, and find the (what I though) tomato purée on the top is actually tomato ketchup..... quite a shock but i know some people who’d not complain!! It’s not eaten more than this.... not worth it!!
We leave 3 minutes late and I wonder if it’s the correct train, then 10 minutes on we stop at Tócóvölgy and the conductress comes around saying something or asking, I can’t tell. The guy opposite side responds to her and opens a window. People have got off and are wandering around. She had previously closed the next seat window!! 15 minutes later and we’re still sitting....... the cats settled down now but people are getting twitchy. My 20 minute change plan in Füzesabony is not going to be a problem, as we’ve waited over 20 minutes here...... still 2 hours to play catch up but I suspect I may have to change plans....!! 25 minutes later we chug off, let’s see how this goes!!
Cars whizz past us and again back into the flat terrain with the dust rising as they are cultivated.
We head through a wetland area and slow enough to potentially allow bird watching, storks and larger birds fly above!
Cars whizz past us and again back into the flat terrain with the dust rising as they are cultivated.
We head through a wetland area and slow enough to potentially allow bird watching, storks and larger birds fly above!
Another longish stop and I’m now checking out options. There’s a 1.5 hour wait at füzesebony if I miss the planned train, and for a 15 minute ride I’m not sure it’s worth it, so may head straight to budapest if it’s that long as I have and agreement now to meet with Bogi at 6pm so pushing luck to waste much time!
As we cross a large lake area and approach original arrival time I’m reasonably prepared that I’ve missed the connection. There’s 17 minutes about about 20 miles to go, plus stops and the annoying part is that’s it going to be by a couple of minutes only!!
Rebooking at options I find that I’m just as fast to get to Eger and take the bus as it’s faster than the train, like in Romania!! I’d get an hour there, not enough time to do the under ground city tour but nicer in this weather than sitting on a train for longer.
The train makes multiple stops as my time lapses for the connection so I’m now in no rush!! There’s hills in the distance on direction in which I’m heading.
So now I look at the information again about my trip and the bus I want runs “on rest days preceding the first work day of the week..... I can’t confirm that the bus will run and I am not wanting to get stuck so with 4 minutes to make a plan, I decide just to continue!
I buy my ticket to budapest and he, I think, tells me I change in Hatvan onto a bus, so some are running!!! I run to get the train from platform 4 then as it sits for another 5 minutes I realise I was looking at the arrivals list!! I’m a little confused though and rethinking......this train say budapest destination so do we all change or have I misunderstood?? Ooooops.... ticket check and I’m reassured I’m ok. Brenda on the messaging and getting me sorted for a trip to Ireland for a mate, Sinead’s wedding later in the year, she’s a great organiser!!
It’s a fast train and no sooner have we left but the wee condoctor pops up and tells me it’s the change to the bus.
As we cross a large lake area and approach original arrival time I’m reasonably prepared that I’ve missed the connection. There’s 17 minutes about about 20 miles to go, plus stops and the annoying part is that’s it going to be by a couple of minutes only!!
Rebooking at options I find that I’m just as fast to get to Eger and take the bus as it’s faster than the train, like in Romania!! I’d get an hour there, not enough time to do the under ground city tour but nicer in this weather than sitting on a train for longer.
The train makes multiple stops as my time lapses for the connection so I’m now in no rush!! There’s hills in the distance on direction in which I’m heading.
So now I look at the information again about my trip and the bus I want runs “on rest days preceding the first work day of the week..... I can’t confirm that the bus will run and I am not wanting to get stuck so with 4 minutes to make a plan, I decide just to continue!
I buy my ticket to budapest and he, I think, tells me I change in Hatvan onto a bus, so some are running!!! I run to get the train from platform 4 then as it sits for another 5 minutes I realise I was looking at the arrivals list!! I’m a little confused though and rethinking......this train say budapest destination so do we all change or have I misunderstood?? Ooooops.... ticket check and I’m reassured I’m ok. Brenda on the messaging and getting me sorted for a trip to Ireland for a mate, Sinead’s wedding later in the year, she’s a great organiser!!
It’s a fast train and no sooner have we left but the wee condoctor pops up and tells me it’s the change to the bus.
I’ve messaged Bogi to say I’m changing plans and maybe earlier but happy to wander the Danube and enjoy some wine while the suns up still. This part should be fast, along the main highway onto Pest.
So arrival in Pecel and it’s back to a train I think. I’m following the majority in the direction the driver pointed.
It’s from here a smooth journey into city and I’m back in a city I love and know well so time to go wander!!
I have 2 hours until I meet Bogi at hers so plenty of time to wander up, google says 1 hour so should be able to sneak a quick glass of local vino in too!! The great thing with this part of town also is that I’ve not really spent much time here, so get to look around a bit. Sadly it’s very typical ‘kings cross’ in its style of shops and options on offer!!
I can look at here with slightly different eyes too as I have seen so much more of Eastern Europe now, this was my first and I still love it, full of solid buildings slowly being refurbished.
So arrival in Pecel and it’s back to a train I think. I’m following the majority in the direction the driver pointed.
It’s from here a smooth journey into city and I’m back in a city I love and know well so time to go wander!!
I have 2 hours until I meet Bogi at hers so plenty of time to wander up, google says 1 hour so should be able to sneak a quick glass of local vino in too!! The great thing with this part of town also is that I’ve not really spent much time here, so get to look around a bit. Sadly it’s very typical ‘kings cross’ in its style of shops and options on offer!!
I can look at here with slightly different eyes too as I have seen so much more of Eastern Europe now, this was my first and I still love it, full of solid buildings slowly being refurbished.
10 minute walk and I’m back to familiar stomping ground. There’s a new feel too, brew bards and bistro and the prices have also updated!! I wonder how this had impacted the locals, shall ask Bogi later.
Memories of visits flood back fondly as I wander around. I’m going g to head to the st gellert atra and get my wine in a bar that Bogi loves until it was taken over!!
I leave instructions of a non Chardonnay, white, not too fruity, let’s see what I get and as Bogi knows me so well I’ll see if it was a good choice.
It’s not bad, dry without being harsh
Memories of visits flood back fondly as I wander around. I’m going g to head to the st gellert atra and get my wine in a bar that Bogi loves until it was taken over!!
I leave instructions of a non Chardonnay, white, not too fruity, let’s see what I get and as Bogi knows me so well I’ll see if it was a good choice.
It’s not bad, dry without being harsh
The tram to the ice rink goes past, next trip...... Can work on the website with their WiFi which is great then Bogi messages to say she’s home early. Finish up and up the road I go. The road has certainly become more modernised too, lots of food places and nice bars, better than the last time I did this walk!! I can see she doesn’t have to go far to go out now!
Meeting up with Bogi and I walk right pass it!!!
We have some wine and a good catch up. Her boyfriend has cooked a traditional Easter loaf, almost the texture and flavour of a panettone but without the sultanas, they will eat with ham on Sunday. We then head to the local bar that’s just opened. She orders me a furmine grape wine and explains that this grape absorbs the flavour of the ground and as a result it can taste different from field to field. It’s a very light wine she’s chosen for me, something I could drink easily, while she prefers a more complex and for once I see what she means!!. We order some food and call it a night about 11pm. Bogi loves a plan, so we have a rough idea for tomorrow!!
Meeting up with Bogi and I walk right pass it!!!
We have some wine and a good catch up. Her boyfriend has cooked a traditional Easter loaf, almost the texture and flavour of a panettone but without the sultanas, they will eat with ham on Sunday. We then head to the local bar that’s just opened. She orders me a furmine grape wine and explains that this grape absorbs the flavour of the ground and as a result it can taste different from field to field. It’s a very light wine she’s chosen for me, something I could drink easily, while she prefers a more complex and for once I see what she means!!. We order some food and call it a night about 11pm. Bogi loves a plan, so we have a rough idea for tomorrow!!
Day 3: Budapest revisit
So up and going and I want to try to change this old currency so we head to the local shopping centre, however the banks are closed all weekend so that’ll be done on the next trip!!!
I leave Bogi and head on my wander, citadel is always stunning, and I need a postcard, so I’m going that direction too to centre to find one.
It’s warm, little wind but overall sunny and lovely. Perfect day for a wander aimlessly. The only plan is to meet about 1600 at her boyfriends bar for drinks and move on after. I have 5 hours to enjoy.
The city is full of required tourists, German and American accents mainly but the odd English group.
I leave Bogi and head on my wander, citadel is always stunning, and I need a postcard, so I’m going that direction too to centre to find one.
It’s warm, little wind but overall sunny and lovely. Perfect day for a wander aimlessly. The only plan is to meet about 1600 at her boyfriends bar for drinks and move on after. I have 5 hours to enjoy.
The city is full of required tourists, German and American accents mainly but the odd English group.
Lunch at a bistro in an area to the south of the centre and slightly away from the boards of tourists, it’s in the sun and in the only person there however attracting custom does not take long, as my food arrives (soup) people slow to look and turn in!!
I was wishing the tradition goulash however it’s not yet ready, so I am suggested another local beef and noodle soup. It’s containing carrots, which have flavour despite being cooked. Sometimes you forget the difference decent fresh veg has on a dish. There’s no beef, rather chicken and lots of noodles. A stag-group arrives (Spanish) looking for a table for 9, and I offer to move to another table in the sun and it’s accepted. Time to change the tan angle!! The buys sit as my bun-free burger arrives, wow it’s a plateful
I was wishing the tradition goulash however it’s not yet ready, so I am suggested another local beef and noodle soup. It’s containing carrots, which have flavour despite being cooked. Sometimes you forget the difference decent fresh veg has on a dish. There’s no beef, rather chicken and lots of noodles. A stag-group arrives (Spanish) looking for a table for 9, and I offer to move to another table in the sun and it’s accepted. Time to change the tan angle!! The buys sit as my bun-free burger arrives, wow it’s a plateful
Only couple of hours until We have a table reservation at Peter, Bogis boyfriends place, Kiosk so I’m going to head back into town towards that destination. It’s really warm now and any seat in the sun is taken. My wander down the Main Street where everyone is piling into shops, takes me to the park at the ‘Budapest Eye’ where kids are skateboarding and BMX trick practicing. It’s great to just enjoy the action and as I go to charge my Phone, I realise that I have come with the wrong charging cable!!
So I need to pick up one if I wish to charge it. I had noticed a ‘Tiger’ shop which is usually reasonably reliable at cheap bits, so it’s i my way to Peters, I’ll pop in when passing. I pop also into a shop I love here, and not really found anywhere else, Pylones, and inside the door he has a full range of ‘bits’!!
Things here are very much unusual but also tourists prices so with impending extra weight from curling shoes tomorrow I dare not buy more!! Another time I’ll consider!! Along and a yellow charging cable is purchased along with some Easter eggs to leave for Bogi.
I head via a coffee as I’m closer that I expected, and get my table at Kiosk, a bar situated just back from the Danube with a Michelin star restaurant attached. It’s been booked in Peters name but here it’s surnamed first and I am not sure if this so eventually I think I explain enough and the girl makes sense of it and the table at the front in the sun is ours! Perfect!! I’m 15 minutes early and daring not to buy wine, I get some sparkling water and wait enjoying the weather.
Bogi arrives as always bang on time, and Peter has recommended not to take the wine and to do cocktails instead. He’s an expert sommelier and I believe one of the best at food partnering in Hungary so his recommendation is contemplated. However the cocktails are done by description and not contents and as such we are not going to try, so Bogi goes to the gin option and I for the wine I had last night!
Peter arrives to say hi. He’s a lovely guy, explaining that the menus are new recently and he’s been too busy to be on the tasting team so has had no input to decisions and maybe he’d have made other.
We order some food. I’ll try the local dish, noodles with a quark like cheese (not fat free!!) and bacon. The waiter is worried that tourist have not liked it. Bogi has explained that I’m not a fussy tourist so will be open and honest!!
Peter reappears and advised on a cocktail and a couple of gins to try, we will go for it as all are gin based for Bogi. I have flowers in mine, Bogi has avoided the Mediterranean option for gin (tomato and basil) as she’s not sure how that will work and instead has lavender in hers. They’re interesting!!
Dinner arrives and it’s slightly bland but is nice dish. I feel it could do with pepper or something more. Bogi tries it and agrees, she will make one next time for me which will be better!! Later, we try the Mediterranean one and a basic G&T. Overall a very filling dinner.
I head via a coffee as I’m closer that I expected, and get my table at Kiosk, a bar situated just back from the Danube with a Michelin star restaurant attached. It’s been booked in Peters name but here it’s surnamed first and I am not sure if this so eventually I think I explain enough and the girl makes sense of it and the table at the front in the sun is ours! Perfect!! I’m 15 minutes early and daring not to buy wine, I get some sparkling water and wait enjoying the weather.
Bogi arrives as always bang on time, and Peter has recommended not to take the wine and to do cocktails instead. He’s an expert sommelier and I believe one of the best at food partnering in Hungary so his recommendation is contemplated. However the cocktails are done by description and not contents and as such we are not going to try, so Bogi goes to the gin option and I for the wine I had last night!
Peter arrives to say hi. He’s a lovely guy, explaining that the menus are new recently and he’s been too busy to be on the tasting team so has had no input to decisions and maybe he’d have made other.
We order some food. I’ll try the local dish, noodles with a quark like cheese (not fat free!!) and bacon. The waiter is worried that tourist have not liked it. Bogi has explained that I’m not a fussy tourist so will be open and honest!!
Peter reappears and advised on a cocktail and a couple of gins to try, we will go for it as all are gin based for Bogi. I have flowers in mine, Bogi has avoided the Mediterranean option for gin (tomato and basil) as she’s not sure how that will work and instead has lavender in hers. They’re interesting!!
Dinner arrives and it’s slightly bland but is nice dish. I feel it could do with pepper or something more. Bogi tries it and agrees, she will make one next time for me which will be better!! Later, we try the Mediterranean one and a basic G&T. Overall a very filling dinner.
Peter popped out to say he’s starting work but we can pop our head in if we wish to see the place. I’m keen!! So we do, he’s doing the taster menu and it’s full later. The food looks amazing and the wine cupboard has over 1500 bottles in it www.babel-budapest.hu . It’s going to be a visit one day!!
To end the evening we decided to walk along the Pest side of the river, and back to Bogis along the Buda side. There’s a festival and music on the bank and it’s a lively event but not feeling like it so we continue and pop into the wine bar again for a nightcap. Home and it’s bed!
To end the evening we decided to walk along the Pest side of the river, and back to Bogis along the Buda side. There’s a festival and music on the bank and it’s a lively event but not feeling like it so we continue and pop into the wine bar again for a nightcap. Home and it’s bed!
Day 4: to Zagreb
So I’ve picked up my curling shoes and my bag is feeling the pressure!! A quick breakfast of omelette and I’m off to the metro, 2 stops to the train station Kelenfold. The church Veela are ringing everywhere for Easter Sunday service calls. It’s 09:00. The metro is easy here, stamp your prebought ticket and clean instruction of arrival etc to follow.
I’m 30 minutes early so figure out the ticket machine successfully and on to the platform as it’s lovely and sunny there.
The train journey is through mainly agricultural area, slightly hilly but not very and following a couple of stops, it’s not long before we arrive in Pecs. I buy my next ticket and I’m off to explore with 3.5 hours to enjoy the sun and city sights
I’m 30 minutes early so figure out the ticket machine successfully and on to the platform as it’s lovely and sunny there.
The train journey is through mainly agricultural area, slightly hilly but not very and following a couple of stops, it’s not long before we arrive in Pecs. I buy my next ticket and I’m off to explore with 3.5 hours to enjoy the sun and city sights
Pecs:
It’s lovely and quiet a definite bonus of travel this day!! With the warm sun I’ll need more water and a few places are open. As I turn into the historic centre there’s cafes open and flowers in full bloom. With the sun streaming down its lovely.
Through the shopping area and round another corner and the full impact of the town gets you. Climbing steadily up a hill it’s a large open area with stunning buildings lining it, fountain and flower beds, and of course plenty of cafes feeding the crowds of us tourists! I can see why 3 hours plus can be easily spent here!!
I turn along Király street (utca) and again plenty of open eating establishments in the sun, and the regional theatre. Ice cream shops are in abundance and perfect trade for this weather, noted on a monitor to be 26 degrees!
Through the shopping area and round another corner and the full impact of the town gets you. Climbing steadily up a hill it’s a large open area with stunning buildings lining it, fountain and flower beds, and of course plenty of cafes feeding the crowds of us tourists! I can see why 3 hours plus can be easily spent here!!
I turn along Király street (utca) and again plenty of open eating establishments in the sun, and the regional theatre. Ice cream shops are in abundance and perfect trade for this weather, noted on a monitor to be 26 degrees!
I head off at the end to circle round the top of the town towards the centre again and then over to the cathedral. Many people are cycling through town too there’s cycle route highlighted ease to follow. I fill up my water bottle at the fountain.
The cathedral and its park is stunning. The building to the side houses the old granary I believe and a statue of a man looking out the balcony for someone catches my attention.
As I’m covering distance well I stop for a relief break and a glass of wine, in the small bar beside the cathedral. He gives me a very nice slightly fruity wine, but it’s fresh and lovely. I’m upuned at the table by a couple of ladies drinking dark beer and they ‘cheers’ me, thankfully I know how to respond to that after many years of practice!! I go to pay the bill and it’s all of 200ft (€0.6!)
The cathedral and its park is stunning. The building to the side houses the old granary I believe and a statue of a man looking out the balcony for someone catches my attention.
As I’m covering distance well I stop for a relief break and a glass of wine, in the small bar beside the cathedral. He gives me a very nice slightly fruity wine, but it’s fresh and lovely. I’m upuned at the table by a couple of ladies drinking dark beer and they ‘cheers’ me, thankfully I know how to respond to that after many years of practice!! I go to pay the bill and it’s all of 200ft (€0.6!)
I wander towards the far side of town passing a ruin that a guide is telling a group, that this was an old mausoleum from the 5th centuary discovered a few years ago. A rainy day there’s a lot to enjoy here.
I wander back to the main square and decide to try asparagus soup as it’s asparagus te as my German mate Sven reminds me! It’s a solid soups, and the added mint is not too overpowering. A group of French guys sit on tables beside and ask the guys next to me about the food, they think it’s the best on Pecs! Can’t grumble. It’s done me well and will see me through to Zagreb where I have 2 nights booked so tomorrow to enjoy the city in the sun and the leaving on rainy Tuesday to Slovenia. Plans from there a little unsure as weather not great!
As the heat of the day starts to ease I’m back at the station and train leaves in 10 minutes so I fine the non reserved carriage and drop my bag to enjoy the last of the days sun on the station bench. I’m not sure how the next stop works, I’ve 50 minutes but not going into a Schengen country so I hope it’s passport before train.
2 guys that I think ate lunch in the place I was (French guys) got on the train too so I wonder if they also are going to Zagreb!
The train journey is along the border this time, a large fence separates Croatia from Hungary.
2 guys that I think ate lunch in the place I was (French guys) got on the train too so I wonder if they also are going to Zagreb!
The train journey is along the border this time, a large fence separates Croatia from Hungary.
We all have to get off the train at the final stop and the 2 guys are still here but turns out they are staying local to here too, but like myself we can’t find how to get out of the station. Any open doors are into offices, so I ask the officer on the station who takes me back and shows me where I should have gone, it’s also the way out!!b First things first, I’m going to get my ticket, and so I pop to the kiosk, where the lady writes the train time down, and I nod. She then goes ahead with printing the ticket and I say I’ll pay by card, so she hands me some keys, and points to a small locked box on the counter where I open and fins the card machine!! Point and shoot and I have my ticket.
There’s a bar opposite so I am needing a drink and thankfully its open and sells large waters. Outside there’s an old style phone box!
There’s a bar opposite so I am needing a drink and thankfully its open and sells large waters. Outside there’s an old style phone box!
Stocked up on 2 litres and ticket in hand, I return to the station. A train from Budapest arrived and the guards get on their gloves and off they go as customs. Only small issue I have is that all announcements are in Hungarian and so platform may be a guess!! 20 minutes to go though!
As 8 minutes arrives I have noted that the train they guards / police got on does have a Croatian flag on it and an engine has been placed on the other end now, so I ask a train station staff member (by hi emblem on the uniform) and he confirms that this is the train to Zagreb so I pop over and get on. Back to the booth style and wow, they are comfy soft seats!! The guards are coming down inside the train now, time to find the passport! It’s not a busy train and 4 of them are coming down and already 10 minutes after departure time, wonder how it is in peak season!! His machine holds the passport closed but can read through it. Very clever! Im approved and I can leave EU again!!
Oh wait. I’m settling down to enjoy a 2 hour trip and then Croatian customs arrive!! All done, and I’m off!!!! We’re 20 minutes late but I’m not sure how this will affect the arrival. Worthing 2 minutes we’re in Croatia! Koprivnica and we have another long stop, it’s not clear why so I go check that others are still on the train there are, and after 10 minutes we’ve the engine switched on and appears that we’re off 15 minutes later! The guard pops in and informs me while checking his ticket, that we’re 20 minutes late. No worries, I’ve a 24 hour check in so I’m not going to cause problems there!
As 8 minutes arrives I have noted that the train they guards / police got on does have a Croatian flag on it and an engine has been placed on the other end now, so I ask a train station staff member (by hi emblem on the uniform) and he confirms that this is the train to Zagreb so I pop over and get on. Back to the booth style and wow, they are comfy soft seats!! The guards are coming down inside the train now, time to find the passport! It’s not a busy train and 4 of them are coming down and already 10 minutes after departure time, wonder how it is in peak season!! His machine holds the passport closed but can read through it. Very clever! Im approved and I can leave EU again!!
Oh wait. I’m settling down to enjoy a 2 hour trip and then Croatian customs arrive!! All done, and I’m off!!!! We’re 20 minutes late but I’m not sure how this will affect the arrival. Worthing 2 minutes we’re in Croatia! Koprivnica and we have another long stop, it’s not clear why so I go check that others are still on the train there are, and after 10 minutes we’ve the engine switched on and appears that we’re off 15 minutes later! The guard pops in and informs me while checking his ticket, that we’re 20 minutes late. No worries, I’ve a 24 hour check in so I’m not going to cause problems there!
1 hour of darkness driving and we hit civilisation and Zagreb appears. The hostel is near the station so perfect to avoid a long walk tonight and also close for early start on Tuesday!
Exit of the station is like Ljubljana where there’s a large statue and a park behind it. Very open welcome.
It’s about 6 minutes to the hostel and a very friendly welcome. I’ve a dorm with 10 beds but only 5 occupied. Zagreb suss our then sleep.... I hope!
Exit of the station is like Ljubljana where there’s a large statue and a park behind it. Very open welcome.
It’s about 6 minutes to the hostel and a very friendly welcome. I’ve a dorm with 10 beds but only 5 occupied. Zagreb suss our then sleep.... I hope!