#72 : Taiwan:
5th highest foreign exchange reserve in the world!
Immigration is so quiet. We arrive along side another flight and there’s only 6 people in front of me. It’s a camera and finger print one but I get a stamp!! Yeah 1 our of 3!!! I follow the sign for the bag reclaim and taken down a small corner lift, maybe I wasn’t paying full attention. No one else around!! Oh I’m ok. There’s bags!! Typical it’s the furthest one!! No london flights but maybe not correct terminal so shall check later where mark arrives to. Hope bag arrives, packed everything in this time...... just be my luck!!! The hoisin chicken pastry has left a funny flavour but guess it was breakfast!! Sniffer dogs pass by and still no bag!! Ah it’s here. Small amongst the large suitcases!! Off to find an arrivals board and to break a £24 note!!
There’s a sign for us so our taxi is here! And I’ve found a coffee place! Oh and a full gym!! Decisions on where to go!! Information desk. She’s so helpful and I find out that the cross country road is closed post earthquake on the east side so marks dream may not be possible this trip, but his legs may appreciate it!! Coffee ordered and the macchiato is a long latte with a froth! Not ideal, grabbing one for mark to boost him up just in case, but an espresso this time! Breaks the note too. Back at the security exit I catch up with our driver who is confused why I am here and the limited English does not help!!! May he remain confused!! I have a huge screen to watch as people come through. Mark landed at 1809 so should be here soon but I’m guessing immigration from uk will be much longer plus he’s the bike to collect!
There’s a sign for us so our taxi is here! And I’ve found a coffee place! Oh and a full gym!! Decisions on where to go!! Information desk. She’s so helpful and I find out that the cross country road is closed post earthquake on the east side so marks dream may not be possible this trip, but his legs may appreciate it!! Coffee ordered and the macchiato is a long latte with a froth! Not ideal, grabbing one for mark to boost him up just in case, but an espresso this time! Breaks the note too. Back at the security exit I catch up with our driver who is confused why I am here and the limited English does not help!!! May he remain confused!! I have a huge screen to watch as people come through. Mark landed at 1809 so should be here soon but I’m guessing immigration from uk will be much longer plus he’s the bike to collect!
He’s through, coffee still warm and Taxi almost here so all to plan!! The ride is about 40 minutes so great catch up and check in is fast. We have a bunk room second floor. It’s neat but we don’t need much as it’s really just to sleep!! My bathroom is a floor above which I’ll have to remember to take the room card for as the lift require it to operate!
Off downstairs to allotted meeting point and mark already out admiring the surroundings!!
We head off in a random direction and a block down are hit by some amazing lights over the street. There’s a call of ‘walk down me’ so we follow the lot up road..... past a temple and the next block have a different light combination with the final block looking like a multicoloured dragon winding above us. We hit a Main Street and use google maps to get our bearings. The area I recal for food etc is over the other side so off we go. We meander ad lib past the shoppers and street performers, and down random side streets. The array of food is awe inspiring, something for anyone and everyone!! We stop at a bar for a local beer. The choice made by the ability to sit outside and that it served beers! We ask for local drinks, I get a cocktail with red bean curd alcohol we think she said (perilla) and Mark a beer..... the girl then comes outside again and heads to the pots of herbs, picks some and crushes it as she passes saying ‘it’s for your drink’!! The beer arrived first and my cocktail arrived as we finish the single beers and order 2 more. We share the sweet but slightly salty cocktail. It’s not bad!! Total $650 ($40:£1) so average price. Hunger is setting in, and off we toddle. We’ve found a street filled with bars to head there. Sure enough just round the corner is a whole cul de sac of bars so to speak. There’s one with a 241 offer..... well why not!! Local beers it is and they’re not too heavy and 5%. The place is full of groups of young people, mainly men. I’m unsure if there’s a loo, but ask and it’s out the back so off goes mark! He comes back to report it’s a hover and go option...... oh no it’s Indonesia all over again!! I head in and hit my head on standing up!!! Ah well. On leaving I notice the array of flyers, maybe useful to flick through,...... they’re all gay promo places..... ah ha! That’s why there’s so many fit young men in here’. I go out to enlighten Mark. We have a giggle! A guy sits beside us on his own and mark sparks yo a conversation with a local. He’s little uncertain in his English at first but gets into the swing of it in a while. Bill requested.... The total for 4 is $160!!! We have decided on food after finishing the beers, and so say good bye and off to test it out before they close ( the guy thinks they shut at 2300 and it’s 2245). Where to go..... we turn down the smelly tofu place, and find noodles, that’ll do...... $80 each box, perfect to soak up the beers! Then it’s straight back to winding dragon street...... oh wait, we see street carts...... oh heaven..... it’s like a sweetie shop.... first the chicken pieces, then a portion of the sweet potato balls ($30 each) then we are not sure of the birds eggs fried and on a stick, but certainly the sausages and finally an omelette thing. Total spend between us $120!! We’ll have the fruit tomorrow!!! The walk back is perfect and it’s straight to sleep off the food!!! Ah this place has a nice feel to it!
Off downstairs to allotted meeting point and mark already out admiring the surroundings!!
We head off in a random direction and a block down are hit by some amazing lights over the street. There’s a call of ‘walk down me’ so we follow the lot up road..... past a temple and the next block have a different light combination with the final block looking like a multicoloured dragon winding above us. We hit a Main Street and use google maps to get our bearings. The area I recal for food etc is over the other side so off we go. We meander ad lib past the shoppers and street performers, and down random side streets. The array of food is awe inspiring, something for anyone and everyone!! We stop at a bar for a local beer. The choice made by the ability to sit outside and that it served beers! We ask for local drinks, I get a cocktail with red bean curd alcohol we think she said (perilla) and Mark a beer..... the girl then comes outside again and heads to the pots of herbs, picks some and crushes it as she passes saying ‘it’s for your drink’!! The beer arrived first and my cocktail arrived as we finish the single beers and order 2 more. We share the sweet but slightly salty cocktail. It’s not bad!! Total $650 ($40:£1) so average price. Hunger is setting in, and off we toddle. We’ve found a street filled with bars to head there. Sure enough just round the corner is a whole cul de sac of bars so to speak. There’s one with a 241 offer..... well why not!! Local beers it is and they’re not too heavy and 5%. The place is full of groups of young people, mainly men. I’m unsure if there’s a loo, but ask and it’s out the back so off goes mark! He comes back to report it’s a hover and go option...... oh no it’s Indonesia all over again!! I head in and hit my head on standing up!!! Ah well. On leaving I notice the array of flyers, maybe useful to flick through,...... they’re all gay promo places..... ah ha! That’s why there’s so many fit young men in here’. I go out to enlighten Mark. We have a giggle! A guy sits beside us on his own and mark sparks yo a conversation with a local. He’s little uncertain in his English at first but gets into the swing of it in a while. Bill requested.... The total for 4 is $160!!! We have decided on food after finishing the beers, and so say good bye and off to test it out before they close ( the guy thinks they shut at 2300 and it’s 2245). Where to go..... we turn down the smelly tofu place, and find noodles, that’ll do...... $80 each box, perfect to soak up the beers! Then it’s straight back to winding dragon street...... oh wait, we see street carts...... oh heaven..... it’s like a sweetie shop.... first the chicken pieces, then a portion of the sweet potato balls ($30 each) then we are not sure of the birds eggs fried and on a stick, but certainly the sausages and finally an omelette thing. Total spend between us $120!! We’ll have the fruit tomorrow!!! The walk back is perfect and it’s straight to sleep off the food!!! Ah this place has a nice feel to it!
Day 1: meeting Mike!
It’s a restless night for us both but waking at 8:45 shower and feeling fresh and fine! Head for breakfast.... down the street 50m or so is a cafe. Head in and almost everything is in Chinese except main menu bits! Food and drinks ordered (a volcano coffee.....??) it’s a long long wait, about 45 mins to get it. We look through the guide books for places and must dos, all looks non specific. Lots of temples, of course, and a few places dotted around. I’m using an eye witness guide and Mark on Lonely planet, and I also have the power of google thanks to the girl behind the counter getting me on line as it’s all Chinese also with no English option and guessing doesn’t work, I find. All together there’s little similarity in the recommendations!! Hmmmm back to the old fashioned map option I picked up yesterday. Local area has lots to offer so think shall stay here. We share the breakfast, mainly as we forgot who ordered what!! Back at the hotel / hostel mark had the bike building challenge. It’s a cursing affair so I leave him to it and head downstairs to figure out the route. It’s 26 degrees but a chilly wind. Mike is free today so planning. I have it scribbled down.
We leave the hotel and head to the underground. It’s all of 3 minute walk so location perfect for accessibility. The main station is a huge underground subway connecting the airport line, the high speed rail (HSR) and the different tube lines. It’s about a 6 minute walk to find the blue line tube we with. Mark goes for the token and I’m getting the card system which can be used like an Oyster card, plus in various shops etc.
We head down to the tube platform and stand London style where we stop..... there’s no one coming beside us, then we realise; there’s tube queue lines you are supposed to stand in!!!
I FIND MY LITTLE PRINCE starting at me as I get on the tube!!
When we get off the coffee is taking effect and I’m intrigued to see public loos, or a little uncertain how they’ll be. Well it’s like being in a 4* restaurant. So clean, and tidy. Nothing like most capital city public transport loos (when they have them!!). Great to know that I can easily drink plenty!!!
We’re running early for meeting Mike so we head to the monument to Sun Yat-Sen. Suddenly Marks history lessons from school kick in and he recounts bits of the history he learnt. The hall is huge and a stunning park area around about it. There’s lots of activities, kids playing, painting and picnics. It is Sunday after all. The lake is buzzing with kids and one chases a pigeon shouting “quack quack!”, we think she needs a mature lesson!!
It’s warm and idillic, hard to believe your a block from the commercial centre and tower 101 looms in front of us. There’s turtles and huge koi carp being fed as we watch.
We leave the hotel and head to the underground. It’s all of 3 minute walk so location perfect for accessibility. The main station is a huge underground subway connecting the airport line, the high speed rail (HSR) and the different tube lines. It’s about a 6 minute walk to find the blue line tube we with. Mark goes for the token and I’m getting the card system which can be used like an Oyster card, plus in various shops etc.
We head down to the tube platform and stand London style where we stop..... there’s no one coming beside us, then we realise; there’s tube queue lines you are supposed to stand in!!!
I FIND MY LITTLE PRINCE starting at me as I get on the tube!!
When we get off the coffee is taking effect and I’m intrigued to see public loos, or a little uncertain how they’ll be. Well it’s like being in a 4* restaurant. So clean, and tidy. Nothing like most capital city public transport loos (when they have them!!). Great to know that I can easily drink plenty!!!
We’re running early for meeting Mike so we head to the monument to Sun Yat-Sen. Suddenly Marks history lessons from school kick in and he recounts bits of the history he learnt. The hall is huge and a stunning park area around about it. There’s lots of activities, kids playing, painting and picnics. It is Sunday after all. The lake is buzzing with kids and one chases a pigeon shouting “quack quack!”, we think she needs a mature lesson!!
It’s warm and idillic, hard to believe your a block from the commercial centre and tower 101 looms in front of us. There’s turtles and huge koi carp being fed as we watch.
As we wander out towards the Ice Monster place we’re meeting at, Mark is accosted again by the group of people at the entrance, trying to get us into their ‘mind altering’ meditation group. He’s to write his name down, and is handed even more info on it, which goes in the bin when we eventually find one!!
Ice monster is amazing, shaved ice in a multitude of flavours. Mike orders a black sesame one, a green tea and a strawberry as they are in season. We’re not sure what to expect but wow!! And so tasty and light! I’m sold on the concept!! I met Mike in Chelyabinsk first time at worlds when he played for USA. It’s been a while and he’s over in Korea making a film about swing dancing, given up the IT world to enter ‘the poverty of the artist’. He’s fascinating to listen to about his take on life in this part of the world, an area he’s very familiar with too. He’s heading back to Seattle in the summer though but maybe back again for the end of the year to Korea. I’ll get his website and info later via fb.
We say goodbye as he must rush to his dance plan, an open air swing session where you put down your speaker in a park area and people just join in he tells us, so liberal!!
Ice monster is amazing, shaved ice in a multitude of flavours. Mike orders a black sesame one, a green tea and a strawberry as they are in season. We’re not sure what to expect but wow!! And so tasty and light! I’m sold on the concept!! I met Mike in Chelyabinsk first time at worlds when he played for USA. It’s been a while and he’s over in Korea making a film about swing dancing, given up the IT world to enter ‘the poverty of the artist’. He’s fascinating to listen to about his take on life in this part of the world, an area he’s very familiar with too. He’s heading back to Seattle in the summer though but maybe back again for the end of the year to Korea. I’ll get his website and info later via fb.
We say goodbye as he must rush to his dance plan, an open air swing session where you put down your speaker in a park area and people just join in he tells us, so liberal!!
Decision to walk back, can’t be that far, is made and I have the map!! We head off the Main Street Which has turned into an oxford street type place, all international branches selling what they do in every other country! Of course what else but we hit the even more exclusive part it would appear, flat blocks ornately fronted with guards and gates into them, and the Cartier etc shops! It’s a tree filled roadway and really pleasant in the warmth! The wander takes us past a market it appears, one side flowers the other jade. We head to the flower one first. It’s is a massive car park of probably about 8 Long sections of flowers, plants and such, and turns into a general market in parts. The flowers are stunning and almost everyone has purchased something. Wow! Over to the jade one, and it’s the same size, but loads of little stalls full of jade and other stones. It’s hard to tell what is real or not and it’s quite intense feeling. We wander a bit then head back out and off down the street.
Not long down we hit a turn and can see a large white all at the end. It’s possibly the memorial hall to Chiang Kai-shek as per the map. Well another wow. These guys are loved. Again a huge park, massive hall and the national concert hall and theatre are at the end of this one. Stunning gardens again, very tidy and organised lead to the gate. We admire the immenseness and then head on back towards the Hotel.
We pass an original city gate which has been done up during the last 20 years, I totally believe it was authentic but it just doesn’t look it with the concrete breeze blocks round the bottom!!! We head towards the presidential office building, it’s large and nothing impressive from what we’ve seen. Time for a wake me up coffee in a nice wee coffee house and back to the hotel to organise for tomorrow’s departure.
We pass an original city gate which has been done up during the last 20 years, I totally believe it was authentic but it just doesn’t look it with the concrete breeze blocks round the bottom!!! We head towards the presidential office building, it’s large and nothing impressive from what we’ve seen. Time for a wake me up coffee in a nice wee coffee house and back to the hotel to organise for tomorrow’s departure.
We decide after our re-pack to head to the night market just past the station. It’s one of the smaller ones, but it’s close, and will give us a taste of what to expect. A 15 minute walk and we hit a street with open-fronted food serving establishments on either side and the middle full of stalls. It’s packed with people bustling and swerving through trying to grab food! There’s a massive variety from fish, beef, noodles, pork and duck / chicken. Mark tells me that dog and cat meat have now been banned here so reasonably safe!! We share some bits, what we thought was a baked cheesy potato turns out to be an oyster, the beef is reasonable but I think last night was better, fried birds eggs, deep fried small quail size eggs which have a texture of an omelet, a pork kebab and sausage, from ‘indigenous peoples Taiwanese sausage’ stall. Finally some small dumplings and a bowl of soup. We’re full!!! Time to leave but first a quick drink..... I’ll try an avocado milk as I really loved them in Agadir, but sadly not up to scratch!
We’re glad of the walk back!!! Shall sleep well tonight!
Done!!!
We’re glad of the walk back!!! Shall sleep well tonight!
Done!!!
Day 2: Flowers day: Taipei and Yangmingshan National Park
The early start sort of abandoned I wake Mark coming back from shower and it’s already 0800. He’s had a women couple of hours over night so groggy, but shower and coffee will cure that quickly. Heading down to another cafe, this a little more of a gourmet shop too, deli come cafe, with an interesting range of pastries and breads ( earl grey, chocolate loaves etc) we grab a pastry (mark also get lunch sorted) and coffee. I notice a kumquat lemon drink, takes me back to Glasgow garden festival with Dad where he dared me to try one....... maybe I’ll have a go at the drink!! Along side the consumption of breakfast we play spot the tourist!! Not only are we different in overall look but we stand out more for the shorts and t-shirt while the locals are wrapped in jackets, jeans and jumpers!
Back to Hotel, pack and part our ways, I’m off to station to get my ticket for tomorrow and go to Shilin to drop my bag before the lilies... my HSR ticket in hand now it’s going to be a 5 minute walk from tube to train so need to make sure I’m not late for the 0901 Train!!
I get to Shilin station and lockers easy to find however the instructions are clear......ish...... you insert your bag, insert the money.... 10 per hour, I want 4 hours but it only allows 1. I panic. I don’t want my locker opening in 1 hour! Ah information. Let’s ask.... the guy comes over and I explain my issue..... he has no English!!! Oooops so phones a friend!! I get the impression I am to wait. He bows in apologetic manor a try to (hopefully) gesture ‘no problem’!! Couple of minutes later a guy arrived by the lockers. His English is very sufficient but again insists in apologising for lack of it! He explains there’s no problem I Pay the rest later when i return. I find the bus stop for the R5, that was easy and the helpful guy has suggested to do the museum on return and given me that number also!
I get to Shilin station and lockers easy to find however the instructions are clear......ish...... you insert your bag, insert the money.... 10 per hour, I want 4 hours but it only allows 1. I panic. I don’t want my locker opening in 1 hour! Ah information. Let’s ask.... the guy comes over and I explain my issue..... he has no English!!! Oooops so phones a friend!! I get the impression I am to wait. He bows in apologetic manor a try to (hopefully) gesture ‘no problem’!! Couple of minutes later a guy arrived by the lockers. His English is very sufficient but again insists in apologising for lack of it! He explains there’s no problem I Pay the rest later when i return. I find the bus stop for the R5, that was easy and the helpful guy has suggested to do the museum on return and given me that number also!
The bus is full and Immediately the girl at the door says hi. She American but family from Singapore and speaks the language so good help as I’m seeing nothing in English!! We chat in the road up. It’s a hilly route but not as clinging on the edge as Victoria peak in HK!! At the top there’s a load of buses which is meaning it’s easy to get back, but the small stand with a lady at it and a couple of posters is as much as I have for information. The lady is explaining lots about the map but refuses to catch my eye..... I fear there’s no English. Thankfully my bus mate is there and translates (the abbreviated version) that the best thing is to take 1-3 places only to visit as it’s too late to do everything. Bus 108 is the round park bus, but as it’s flowering season a couple more are on offer. The info on the poster appears to not correlate with the map but it’s all a little confusing even for the language speakers!!
108 is a small minibus and fills fast so I take the larger bus along with the rest of the queue with no idea of destination but at least it’s away from stinky tofu that’s being cooked on one of the wee stalls!!
We head up the hill and onto another car park where there’s a pick up but that’s all! Onward and upward some more! The hilltop is clouded over so hopefully it’s not going to rain as my umbrella is in the locker at Shilin!!
An announcement in mandarin I assume and people start getting up. I’m wondering if marks escaped the city yet!!
I meet a local couple of ladies on a day trip out from taipei. They have a little English and insist on chatting. I’m reassured when they also look confused at the map and seem to tame me under their wing. It’s a 10 minute walk down a road with no pavement to another centre. There’s people again!!
We take a route that she thinks will take us back though the lilies. It’s looking like a track but not accessible. Let’s do it she says!! And we do. Following a wall between the Lilly fields then hit a deep gully. Back we go!
It’s a faster and quieter wander back. At the end they offer me to join them for lunch, but I’m not hungry at the moment to decline, thank them for their help and kindness and off I go to the shopping area by the road.
Not far down I’m given a cherry tomato and hustled into this fruit shop, Actually not a bad idea for lunch. He give me a taste of a slice of fruit with a small piece on top. It’s nice and I end up buying a couple of bags at tourist price ($200) but he gives me a fruit (I think) I’ve never seen w to hear back to starting point!!
The wander back is mainly up hill, thankfully I’m not trying to wall and talk, can type while catching my breath!! The dark clouds are going and the sun is hot, to me anyway!! Garlic smells come from the gardens I pass and I’m hoping I’m on the correct road. The Lilly pictures still adorn the concrete posts so I’m guessing so. I’m pleased I’ve done it, but get the feeling it’s really a local spot still. 10 minutes and I’m back at the bus stop location but still none the wiser of what to do from here......and I’ve lost my locals and my translators. Time to make new friend!!! There’s lots of stops with hiking and views from them but as there’s very little view and the wind is getting up and greying over again, I’m going to head back down! It’s 1pm but I think I may have just missed the bus, although hard to tell. The 108 come going the opposite way but my initial thoughts of a scenic tour on it doesn’t look like it would be by the map, and it’s crowded full taking an hour to go round. People come and go from the stop. I’m not sure if they give up or we’re taking shade. Plenty of buses on opposite side but none this. It’s been 25 minutes. However the view is clearing and the sun is still shining so not too bothered. And I have time to write this up!!! None of the Taipei basin pictures are working as it’s too cloudy but maybe by the time the bus arrives it’s better ( if the bus arrives!!). I enjoy watching the odd obvious tourist get off the bus and look ever so confused at the arrival point. RIt’s really just the police station and not what you expect.
I wonder if the bus goes in the opposite direction now! There’s a timetable but 4 have done the other way and none this......... well if all else fails there’s taxis if needed. Ah 1324 and a bus arrives to go back to the start!! This time I pay on boarding. Getting used to the signs that tell you which option to do!!
108 is a small minibus and fills fast so I take the larger bus along with the rest of the queue with no idea of destination but at least it’s away from stinky tofu that’s being cooked on one of the wee stalls!!
We head up the hill and onto another car park where there’s a pick up but that’s all! Onward and upward some more! The hilltop is clouded over so hopefully it’s not going to rain as my umbrella is in the locker at Shilin!!
An announcement in mandarin I assume and people start getting up. I’m wondering if marks escaped the city yet!!
I meet a local couple of ladies on a day trip out from taipei. They have a little English and insist on chatting. I’m reassured when they also look confused at the map and seem to tame me under their wing. It’s a 10 minute walk down a road with no pavement to another centre. There’s people again!!
We take a route that she thinks will take us back though the lilies. It’s looking like a track but not accessible. Let’s do it she says!! And we do. Following a wall between the Lilly fields then hit a deep gully. Back we go!
It’s a faster and quieter wander back. At the end they offer me to join them for lunch, but I’m not hungry at the moment to decline, thank them for their help and kindness and off I go to the shopping area by the road.
Not far down I’m given a cherry tomato and hustled into this fruit shop, Actually not a bad idea for lunch. He give me a taste of a slice of fruit with a small piece on top. It’s nice and I end up buying a couple of bags at tourist price ($200) but he gives me a fruit (I think) I’ve never seen w to hear back to starting point!!
The wander back is mainly up hill, thankfully I’m not trying to wall and talk, can type while catching my breath!! The dark clouds are going and the sun is hot, to me anyway!! Garlic smells come from the gardens I pass and I’m hoping I’m on the correct road. The Lilly pictures still adorn the concrete posts so I’m guessing so. I’m pleased I’ve done it, but get the feeling it’s really a local spot still. 10 minutes and I’m back at the bus stop location but still none the wiser of what to do from here......and I’ve lost my locals and my translators. Time to make new friend!!! There’s lots of stops with hiking and views from them but as there’s very little view and the wind is getting up and greying over again, I’m going to head back down! It’s 1pm but I think I may have just missed the bus, although hard to tell. The 108 come going the opposite way but my initial thoughts of a scenic tour on it doesn’t look like it would be by the map, and it’s crowded full taking an hour to go round. People come and go from the stop. I’m not sure if they give up or we’re taking shade. Plenty of buses on opposite side but none this. It’s been 25 minutes. However the view is clearing and the sun is still shining so not too bothered. And I have time to write this up!!! None of the Taipei basin pictures are working as it’s too cloudy but maybe by the time the bus arrives it’s better ( if the bus arrives!!). I enjoy watching the odd obvious tourist get off the bus and look ever so confused at the arrival point. RIt’s really just the police station and not what you expect.
I wonder if the bus goes in the opposite direction now! There’s a timetable but 4 have done the other way and none this......... well if all else fails there’s taxis if needed. Ah 1324 and a bus arrives to go back to the start!! This time I pay on boarding. Getting used to the signs that tell you which option to do!!
The bus station already has a queue for the R5 (looks like I5 in local so confuses me, although that’s not hard here!!). I need to ensure I can recognise the station again! Check in not until 1500 so think may head to museum too before check in.
The views on the way back down are fabulous but I’m on the wrong side of the bus to get pictures. We’re high above Taipei.
I miss the bus stop. The driver does shout something but no Idea what and next stop is the next tube station down. Actually this could work also as need to access my bag from
Inside the barriers. But first I will go to the national palace museum. Bus stop found and the time says not for another 2 hours. It’s a local bus surely not. After 5 mins and a 98 minute wait on the information panel I give up.... go check in first. Back to get my bag on the tube. It’s saying I owe $40 (£1) so I insert the 4x10 and it gives me 3 back. Just going to stay confused!!! Bag locker is open so thats all I need.
Little confusing with location of the accomodation and of course no signage I can recognise!! Eventually I establish where to go and there’s a phone number to call. She’s on her way. Abruptly she comes out the door, I had time to buy a couple of dim sum from the shop beside for $26 and we walk along the street. Well more like speed walk. The rooms are 2 minutes away down a small alley. Easy to find. All sorted in checked in to a room with a huge bed and equal sized tv!! Right. Change shoes and find the palace, 35 minute walk so I’m off. It’s an easy walk along the main streets. Schools are coming out so it’s getting a bit busy!
It’s an immense building. I chose one section to go see, it’s full of jade artifacts and pottery. I’m aware these are rare and probably worth a fortune but I’ve missed the guided tour in English and the worth does not translate.
It’s 6:15 and Shilin market should be opening so going to head there as the bus arrives as I pass the stop. I’m not hungry and it’s early enough that I hope it’s not too crowded but would like to see it’s size as the main one in the country.
Well it’s maze of streets with shops falling into them. Come with an empty bag to Taiwan, head straight here and you can buy everything!!
As the sun goes down in the city I get my kumquat and lemon drink and have found a top flavour! I’m undecided on how my trip ends and if I come back or not at the end. Presently I feel like I’m ready to escape them!! I have a week left to decide!
I have the 0901 out of main station as my next plan so back to get sorted and message Home. Must also tantalise Sue with some food pics!!! Oh and make sure Mark managed to escape the city!!
The views on the way back down are fabulous but I’m on the wrong side of the bus to get pictures. We’re high above Taipei.
I miss the bus stop. The driver does shout something but no Idea what and next stop is the next tube station down. Actually this could work also as need to access my bag from
Inside the barriers. But first I will go to the national palace museum. Bus stop found and the time says not for another 2 hours. It’s a local bus surely not. After 5 mins and a 98 minute wait on the information panel I give up.... go check in first. Back to get my bag on the tube. It’s saying I owe $40 (£1) so I insert the 4x10 and it gives me 3 back. Just going to stay confused!!! Bag locker is open so thats all I need.
Little confusing with location of the accomodation and of course no signage I can recognise!! Eventually I establish where to go and there’s a phone number to call. She’s on her way. Abruptly she comes out the door, I had time to buy a couple of dim sum from the shop beside for $26 and we walk along the street. Well more like speed walk. The rooms are 2 minutes away down a small alley. Easy to find. All sorted in checked in to a room with a huge bed and equal sized tv!! Right. Change shoes and find the palace, 35 minute walk so I’m off. It’s an easy walk along the main streets. Schools are coming out so it’s getting a bit busy!
It’s an immense building. I chose one section to go see, it’s full of jade artifacts and pottery. I’m aware these are rare and probably worth a fortune but I’ve missed the guided tour in English and the worth does not translate.
It’s 6:15 and Shilin market should be opening so going to head there as the bus arrives as I pass the stop. I’m not hungry and it’s early enough that I hope it’s not too crowded but would like to see it’s size as the main one in the country.
Well it’s maze of streets with shops falling into them. Come with an empty bag to Taiwan, head straight here and you can buy everything!!
As the sun goes down in the city I get my kumquat and lemon drink and have found a top flavour! I’m undecided on how my trip ends and if I come back or not at the end. Presently I feel like I’m ready to escape them!! I have a week left to decide!
I have the 0901 out of main station as my next plan so back to get sorted and message Home. Must also tantalise Sue with some food pics!!! Oh and make sure Mark managed to escape the city!!
Day 3: Lake Day, Sun Moon Lake National Park
Fantastic shower after a restless night. Some messages from the other side, all well it seems but not great weather. Rain coming on the west here too so may change plans a bit and speed up my journey to the south. The tea plantations and Forrest area may not be great walking if wet??
I’m packed and off dropping key card in the box. Back to the station and I pass a queue of people at a series of street stalls. There’s no messing here, they look at you, put up a finger, shout 1 and you’ve ordered!! I get a Chinese pancake...... it’s all of $25 (50p). Made in seconds I’m off unsure where the others went to eat theirs it goes in my bag. It’s far too hot to touch anyway!
It’s rush hour and the tube is busy but there’s room to stand and for my backpack still on my back so far. Back to the main station with an hour til Train leaves. The sun is shining, perfect start!!
A child is singing the tune to baba black sheep but uncertain if it’s just a mumbled tune or the mandarin words!!!
The tube is simple here. The names are by the line colour and the stops are all numbered so you can figure out how many to go. Information on them appears to be in both English and local. It’s silent though and everyone in their own world. There’s even order at the alighting station. You go up the escalator assigned to your tube, even when the other side was quiet no one crosses over. No one walks up the escalator and there’s no rush to barge in. So far all my travels here have cost me $130 o have time to wander and have a look in the food court. They have bacon rolls with cheesy bread!! My special treat when Home!! They don’t look quite the same though! I have a quick seat to try my omelette. It’s good, there’s an aniseed and sweet and sour flavour. It’s amazing! Think cabbage in there too! Only minus is that it’s quite greasy! I still have fruit from yesterday to clean it up!!!!
In true what would be Taiwanese style the boarding of the train is orderly and polite. It arrives on time! They announce it’s arriving at the platform about 5 mins before it actually does but the flashing lights in front of the gate mean it’s now coming! The queue is big, maybe busy!!
Wow, again!! It’s big, clean and loads of space, and the seats recline. Amazing! Only thing it dissent have is a power connection that I can see, but I’m sure there will be one somewhere!! Ah the seat info tells me it’s in cars 4 and 12!! Breast feeding room in car 5, vending machine cars 1,5,11 and toilets in odd numbered cars.
I’m packed and off dropping key card in the box. Back to the station and I pass a queue of people at a series of street stalls. There’s no messing here, they look at you, put up a finger, shout 1 and you’ve ordered!! I get a Chinese pancake...... it’s all of $25 (50p). Made in seconds I’m off unsure where the others went to eat theirs it goes in my bag. It’s far too hot to touch anyway!
It’s rush hour and the tube is busy but there’s room to stand and for my backpack still on my back so far. Back to the main station with an hour til Train leaves. The sun is shining, perfect start!!
A child is singing the tune to baba black sheep but uncertain if it’s just a mumbled tune or the mandarin words!!!
The tube is simple here. The names are by the line colour and the stops are all numbered so you can figure out how many to go. Information on them appears to be in both English and local. It’s silent though and everyone in their own world. There’s even order at the alighting station. You go up the escalator assigned to your tube, even when the other side was quiet no one crosses over. No one walks up the escalator and there’s no rush to barge in. So far all my travels here have cost me $130 o have time to wander and have a look in the food court. They have bacon rolls with cheesy bread!! My special treat when Home!! They don’t look quite the same though! I have a quick seat to try my omelette. It’s good, there’s an aniseed and sweet and sour flavour. It’s amazing! Think cabbage in there too! Only minus is that it’s quite greasy! I still have fruit from yesterday to clean it up!!!!
In true what would be Taiwanese style the boarding of the train is orderly and polite. It arrives on time! They announce it’s arriving at the platform about 5 mins before it actually does but the flashing lights in front of the gate mean it’s now coming! The queue is big, maybe busy!!
Wow, again!! It’s big, clean and loads of space, and the seats recline. Amazing! Only thing it dissent have is a power connection that I can see, but I’m sure there will be one somewhere!! Ah the seat info tells me it’s in cars 4 and 12!! Breast feeding room in car 5, vending machine cars 1,5,11 and toilets in odd numbered cars.
We eventually leave the tunnels and out into sunlight again! Goodbye Taipei! As we speed south it’s getting greyer, oh dear!!
The landscape is wet lands and we’re away from the hills. Paddy fields a Plenty!! The info screen tells me 10% chance of rain and temperatures about 25 degrees, shall see!! The trolley comes past, not just food but electronic goods too!!
Looking at the map and calculating it out, my plan for heading to the tea plantations will mean 7 hours of bus tomorrow. I’m rethinking this plan and will look into heading straight south to the coast I think.
The Paddy fields are totally integrated looking with the city and it makes you wonder how the foundations are!!! 50 minutes and we speed into the station! 1/3rd of the way down the west!
The exit clearly marked and at the bottom of the stairs is the bus ticket place for sun moon lake. The bus is here ( no surprise I guess to time it with the HSR!) and I’m in! It’s a bling bling bus, reminiscent of Sri Lanka trio with Rosie, but this time I have a seat!! My time table tells me I arrive at 1140. I have the return ticket so all good! It’s a smooth journey and less than an hour the bus stops. No announcements despite the info saying it stops at couple of places on the way, we seem to be here. A few people also looking slightly confused!! The guy in front checks his map on the phone and yes we’re here. He is the first to get up and go. The driver is already gone for ?tea?!!!
The landscape is wet lands and we’re away from the hills. Paddy fields a Plenty!! The info screen tells me 10% chance of rain and temperatures about 25 degrees, shall see!! The trolley comes past, not just food but electronic goods too!!
Looking at the map and calculating it out, my plan for heading to the tea plantations will mean 7 hours of bus tomorrow. I’m rethinking this plan and will look into heading straight south to the coast I think.
The Paddy fields are totally integrated looking with the city and it makes you wonder how the foundations are!!! 50 minutes and we speed into the station! 1/3rd of the way down the west!
The exit clearly marked and at the bottom of the stairs is the bus ticket place for sun moon lake. The bus is here ( no surprise I guess to time it with the HSR!) and I’m in! It’s a bling bling bus, reminiscent of Sri Lanka trio with Rosie, but this time I have a seat!! My time table tells me I arrive at 1140. I have the return ticket so all good! It’s a smooth journey and less than an hour the bus stops. No announcements despite the info saying it stops at couple of places on the way, we seem to be here. A few people also looking slightly confused!! The guy in front checks his map on the phone and yes we’re here. He is the first to get up and go. The driver is already gone for ?tea?!!!
The info stand is opposite so I head that way, joined by a couple who are here from Germany lecturing. It’s a brief chat as we scurry along and they disappear to get the bus round the lake and the very scanty info place provides me with a leaflet which really is all I need. I pick up a coffee too and take it into the sun with the leaflet to digest a plan!! I am in the ‘true centre’ of Taiwan. I get WiFi and I check my hotel has luggage drop.... great start. Off I go as usual in the wrong direction!!!
So I am helped by a young lad, there’s so many places with signs and the ‘x’ on my info is an ‘s’ on the sign. I pay for the Hotel and he offers me a trip on a boat, the cable car and a bike hire at 4pm. It’s $450 I gave no better plan and it will do the day. He’s in a rush to make the deal. The boat will leave in 20 minutes (it’s only 2 minute walk!). I leave my bag and head down the road ‘to the right!). I head towards the pier past the usual shops and now standard egg roll and fish food stands. I have tickets in hand and as I walk past a ticket office the lady shouts me over and takes my ticket stub, stamping my hand in return. Well no washing that off if it’s the only way on and off the boat!!!!! It’s far more rushed here, I am told to look for the orange boat. Sure enough it’s there and a guy opens the door to let me on. I’m the only person...... hope it’s the right one, maybe they’re all at lunch!!! I admire again the cloud looming in........ probably where the cable car is going by my standards of luck!! I’m in the only corner of the boat at the back that’s in the sun!!!
It’s 12:00 and there’s only me and my boat man!! He gets off, unsecured the boat and off I go on my personal private ride!! No idea where I’m going I have to say!! The map may help a bit!!!! He puts in the promo video but I can hardly see it. Hahaha. I am heading to clouds!!! My private tour over the last waiting at Ita Thao pier is amused but it looks like she will have the same on her journey!!! I hope so as she has a small excited boy with her. We wish each other a nice afternoon!! The sign posts are a little hap hazard to start with but soon become consistent directing you along the wooden walk way. It’s lovely and I can see where I’m heading, the big modern building stands out but is calmed by the stunningness of its surroundings. There snippets of info about the local people on boards around. As I reach the cable car I find a walkway signposted. No idea where it leads but as it’s sunny and dry let’s go, says it takes 25 mins so should be at bar cat by 1pm, that’s assuming it’s a circular trip!! There’s no map just some signs. Only done 7000 steps today so need to add some!! I love the little huts on the lake, but I can’t see if they’re fishing or living ones! It’s a very clear lake too 22 minutes and I come to the end. There’s a small grave yard here and I can either turn around and walk back or walk the road. Lake wins, I’ll see things from a different angle!!! There’s a cute sculpture of 3 frogs at the end, no info on this either. Let’s see! Suddenly it becomes spot the monkey as the bush / trees to my left suddenly rustle. I see I die a shirt time then more noise but it’s gone. Memories of Ubud flood back and their nasty ones! Andy I dive mastered with had his Achilles snapped by ones bite he claimed! The sunbathing turtle see me and in a flash is below the water! I can hear movements but the dense ness of the surroundings into the water hide all from my trying eager eye. Bet Dad would spot them!!! Thankfully, although not looking too hard for them, I don’t see snakes!!! Ants. Not seen any ants even on the squashed fruits! I pass people! Back at the start almost I can hear a large number of Mildred voices, did I make the wrong decision. Fingers crossed they’re on their way back down!!! I’m starting to notice all the signs are for bikes... the place is strewn with red and purple t-shirts and adults in similar attire with microphones and loud speakers!!! Kids these days eh!?!??
It’s 1:30. I best get a wriggle on “check in 3pm, bike ride 4pm” were my instructions! Still another boat ride and cable car to do!!
So I am helped by a young lad, there’s so many places with signs and the ‘x’ on my info is an ‘s’ on the sign. I pay for the Hotel and he offers me a trip on a boat, the cable car and a bike hire at 4pm. It’s $450 I gave no better plan and it will do the day. He’s in a rush to make the deal. The boat will leave in 20 minutes (it’s only 2 minute walk!). I leave my bag and head down the road ‘to the right!). I head towards the pier past the usual shops and now standard egg roll and fish food stands. I have tickets in hand and as I walk past a ticket office the lady shouts me over and takes my ticket stub, stamping my hand in return. Well no washing that off if it’s the only way on and off the boat!!!!! It’s far more rushed here, I am told to look for the orange boat. Sure enough it’s there and a guy opens the door to let me on. I’m the only person...... hope it’s the right one, maybe they’re all at lunch!!! I admire again the cloud looming in........ probably where the cable car is going by my standards of luck!! I’m in the only corner of the boat at the back that’s in the sun!!!
It’s 12:00 and there’s only me and my boat man!! He gets off, unsecured the boat and off I go on my personal private ride!! No idea where I’m going I have to say!! The map may help a bit!!!! He puts in the promo video but I can hardly see it. Hahaha. I am heading to clouds!!! My private tour over the last waiting at Ita Thao pier is amused but it looks like she will have the same on her journey!!! I hope so as she has a small excited boy with her. We wish each other a nice afternoon!! The sign posts are a little hap hazard to start with but soon become consistent directing you along the wooden walk way. It’s lovely and I can see where I’m heading, the big modern building stands out but is calmed by the stunningness of its surroundings. There snippets of info about the local people on boards around. As I reach the cable car I find a walkway signposted. No idea where it leads but as it’s sunny and dry let’s go, says it takes 25 mins so should be at bar cat by 1pm, that’s assuming it’s a circular trip!! There’s no map just some signs. Only done 7000 steps today so need to add some!! I love the little huts on the lake, but I can’t see if they’re fishing or living ones! It’s a very clear lake too 22 minutes and I come to the end. There’s a small grave yard here and I can either turn around and walk back or walk the road. Lake wins, I’ll see things from a different angle!!! There’s a cute sculpture of 3 frogs at the end, no info on this either. Let’s see! Suddenly it becomes spot the monkey as the bush / trees to my left suddenly rustle. I see I die a shirt time then more noise but it’s gone. Memories of Ubud flood back and their nasty ones! Andy I dive mastered with had his Achilles snapped by ones bite he claimed! The sunbathing turtle see me and in a flash is below the water! I can hear movements but the dense ness of the surroundings into the water hide all from my trying eager eye. Bet Dad would spot them!!! Thankfully, although not looking too hard for them, I don’t see snakes!!! Ants. Not seen any ants even on the squashed fruits! I pass people! Back at the start almost I can hear a large number of Mildred voices, did I make the wrong decision. Fingers crossed they’re on their way back down!!! I’m starting to notice all the signs are for bikes... the place is strewn with red and purple t-shirts and adults in similar attire with microphones and loud speakers!!! Kids these days eh!?!??
It’s 1:30. I best get a wriggle on “check in 3pm, bike ride 4pm” were my instructions! Still another boat ride and cable car to do!!
There’s 2 cabin types. Ah I’ll head up and suss that out at the top?? I click. The Chrystal has the glass floor..... no way!! On my own private cabin and a swing and I’m off in the red car!! Off into the clouds!! Think it is $15 for the trip. Hoot to know that I can walk down if needed!!! It would be quite a walk up but nothing compared to Sri Lanka Adams peak I guess! When I think we’re there there’s another section!!! Oh that’s far down!! The wind rustles the bamboo and I gaze ahead at the yellow car behind!!!! I’ll stick the camera out in the way down as the window is dirty and only the door side opens!!
It is a view and a half! Into the arms of the grey clouds I go!
The information on the boat was describing an island in the lake that looks like a pearl popping out of the lake which the hills either side depict dragons playing with this. I see what they mean. We drop down suddenly into a station. There’s another cable car beyond..... as I leave the banners explain the carriage colours, blue, ecology, red :happiness, yellow lohas?? I’m at the aboriginal village it seems! But you have to pay another $400 for it. I’ve 2 hours left so maybe that’s for another day!! Back down and off to next boat stop. I have 30 minutes to get to the pier!! The kids have just arrived in their hoards. Run!! Back on the blue one!! My cold omelette still tastes good! Some pictures out the window! It’s 10 minute down and has offered nice views just disappointed there wasn’t an ability to do a panorama at the top!!
It is a view and a half! Into the arms of the grey clouds I go!
The information on the boat was describing an island in the lake that looks like a pearl popping out of the lake which the hills either side depict dragons playing with this. I see what they mean. We drop down suddenly into a station. There’s another cable car beyond..... as I leave the banners explain the carriage colours, blue, ecology, red :happiness, yellow lohas?? I’m at the aboriginal village it seems! But you have to pay another $400 for it. I’ve 2 hours left so maybe that’s for another day!! Back down and off to next boat stop. I have 30 minutes to get to the pier!! The kids have just arrived in their hoards. Run!! Back on the blue one!! My cold omelette still tastes good! Some pictures out the window! It’s 10 minute down and has offered nice views just disappointed there wasn’t an ability to do a panorama at the top!!
I get back to the pier in perfect time. It’s a different boat man this time. A set of pointing at tickets, leaflet established I’m heading to Syuanguang pier. He takes my ticket, oh I hope my hand stamps I’ve been preserving is sufficient for the return trip or I’ll miss my bike ride in 1.5 hours!!! 1i think I can get the 1530 out of there to be back in time!!! I’m trying to figure out what’s to see! I think it’s a couple of temples. I have 2 men on this trip with me, all this exclusiveness gone!! It’s not like lake Bled in Slovenia where theres no motorised vehicles. The temple is tiny and not really worth the climb but the view is! However I miss my ride back by 3 minutes!! I have 40 mins to wait til next one! People are having pictures taken by various things and I rwaslise the benefit of not speaking the language is no one hassles you to buy stuff!!! I’ve a while to enjoy the local music and the guy appears to be a bit of a celebrity amongst the older ladies!!! I’ve covered every walk way and track it seems so sit down to wait!! The sun is thinking about joining me! I’m still munching through the fruit from yesterday!!
Edit photos and the boat arrives. The driver if full of information./... in local. It’s got everyone to with their cameras! Well except the 2 opposite who look asleep on the table. He’s pointing out the buildings I think by the camera angles!!
Off the boat and back to check in officially. It’s down the road and at the back of a restaurant. No mention of the cycle tour so I’ll sort that in a minute. Rain potential though. Guessing you do the cycle at sunset!?
Edit photos and the boat arrives. The driver if full of information./... in local. It’s got everyone to with their cameras! Well except the 2 opposite who look asleep on the table. He’s pointing out the buildings I think by the camera angles!!
Off the boat and back to check in officially. It’s down the road and at the back of a restaurant. No mention of the cycle tour so I’ll sort that in a minute. Rain potential though. Guessing you do the cycle at sunset!?
I’m going cycling. I head to the wrong shop, it’s got the upright bikes in it. They point me to the correct one...... ah he’s offered me a front suspension multi bike sort. Happy, although the seat needs to come up a fair bit! Map in hand I’m off. He has my passport for deposit so if anything happens they won’t know who I am!! I’m to turn left at the ‘P’ for parking. Simple. It’s just up the road so I head off just to meet a load of eco bikes(part electric!). This is the one time I think the face masks are sensible..... close your mouth woman!!!! It’s an easy trail 5km or so to a dam then back again. The electric bikes amuse me, there’s no hills by my standards, I’m very sure Mark and Dave etc works but even notice a uphill incline! Thanks to previous lessons from the afore mentioned Mark I have a handle on the gears, well ok the ones on my right hand, no idea about the left ones!!! I play over take and let them go with the older ladies on the eco bikes. They are quite competitive after a while!! I feel that cycling is not something they do much as the trail is continuously telling you to slow down!! Additionally I’m one of the few who’s opted out of motorisation!! Then there’s the wooden walkway part that you must push your bike over!!! Too dangerous to ride on (part of the dam).
I make it there then turn round and the speedy trip back!! I notice how many bikes there are in shops to hire, this must be a nightmare in summer of peak times. That would make sense if the signs then, no speeding then here!!
I get back and retrieve my passport. I head past the shop next door and she’s offering samples of the local wine! Well it is wine after all..... she has small bottles.... yes Mum guess what’s coming home to add to your collection of random round the world wines!!! After lots of hand signals, that now universal language of communication when there’s no common language, she gives me a deal..... 3 bottles for $400. Ok why not! The samples must have gone to my head!!! The backpack will squeeze them in, I may regret it soon though!!!
I pick up a couple of postcards and head to find the post office I spotted earlier.... just can’t recall where. It’s only 5:45 so wander is the way to find it! NOODLES I’ve not had a noodle soup yet! The lady catches my eye and shows me the menu. There’s pictures, which all look the same.......I indicate I don’t know, I point at soup and indicate for her to chose. Done. No idea what it is!! It’s rapidly placed in front and I indicate I’ll eat at the front where I am. They all come to watch my eloquence or lack of in the use of chopsticks. I thought I was doing well when the fork arrived. I’m going to persevere!! I think they’re mushrooms in the top, beefy ones, just as well Mark not having it as not a fan!! As I wander round the corner there’s the post office all closed. I have my bearings if this small wee town. The sun is going down but it’s misty and there’s no real sunset to admire.
I need to get organised for tomorrow! Back to base!!!
I pass an interesting smell, I notice a large bowl of mushrooms and what look like eggs in it. The man offers me one, I decline as the dinner was sufficient, however I ask what it is (I’d seen these being queued for at the temple, he says eggs and tea??? A young lad comes to help. He has a little English and enough to tell me that this is a local delicacy which is whole egg cooked in black tea and mushrooms. You eat the egg only. They are cracked to ensure cooked and flavoured. Now Mark would enjoy that!!!
Through the restaurant i go feeling a little like Mr Ben!! It’s quiet season so hopefully it’ll not be too noisy. I fill up the water bottle and start to think on to the next plan.
I make it there then turn round and the speedy trip back!! I notice how many bikes there are in shops to hire, this must be a nightmare in summer of peak times. That would make sense if the signs then, no speeding then here!!
I get back and retrieve my passport. I head past the shop next door and she’s offering samples of the local wine! Well it is wine after all..... she has small bottles.... yes Mum guess what’s coming home to add to your collection of random round the world wines!!! After lots of hand signals, that now universal language of communication when there’s no common language, she gives me a deal..... 3 bottles for $400. Ok why not! The samples must have gone to my head!!! The backpack will squeeze them in, I may regret it soon though!!!
I pick up a couple of postcards and head to find the post office I spotted earlier.... just can’t recall where. It’s only 5:45 so wander is the way to find it! NOODLES I’ve not had a noodle soup yet! The lady catches my eye and shows me the menu. There’s pictures, which all look the same.......I indicate I don’t know, I point at soup and indicate for her to chose. Done. No idea what it is!! It’s rapidly placed in front and I indicate I’ll eat at the front where I am. They all come to watch my eloquence or lack of in the use of chopsticks. I thought I was doing well when the fork arrived. I’m going to persevere!! I think they’re mushrooms in the top, beefy ones, just as well Mark not having it as not a fan!! As I wander round the corner there’s the post office all closed. I have my bearings if this small wee town. The sun is going down but it’s misty and there’s no real sunset to admire.
I need to get organised for tomorrow! Back to base!!!
I pass an interesting smell, I notice a large bowl of mushrooms and what look like eggs in it. The man offers me one, I decline as the dinner was sufficient, however I ask what it is (I’d seen these being queued for at the temple, he says eggs and tea??? A young lad comes to help. He has a little English and enough to tell me that this is a local delicacy which is whole egg cooked in black tea and mushrooms. You eat the egg only. They are cracked to ensure cooked and flavoured. Now Mark would enjoy that!!!
Through the restaurant i go feeling a little like Mr Ben!! It’s quiet season so hopefully it’ll not be too noisy. I fill up the water bottle and start to think on to the next plan.
Day 4: The Seaside: Kenting National Park
The room is looking like it needs a good repaint, the bed rattled with every turn and the shower is very mouldy but it works! It’s nice and early and I’ve slept reasonably well. It was almost silent at 11pm Which I hadn’t expected. I shower pack and head off back to the main hotel to check out. There’s 25 minutes til the bus so I’m going to wander to the lake. It’s a sleepy town at 7am but o meet a few groups wandering around when I get to the lake. It’s sunny, warm and nice. Back to bus stop as it’s almost time to find out if it’s the correct time on the schedule!! There’s a bus there already and it’s similar colours to the one I want, but the picture is of the lake so I suspect it’s the round the lake bus. There’s. I one to ask but a couple more people with luggage are hovering around too. Still 5 minutes so I’ll hold off!!
It’s to be 28 degrees so I’m thinking to head south ASAP and enjoy it however I need to decide if I stop in Tainan the old capital today for a couple of hours....... it’s 0725 and the bus puts the luggage door down and I realise it’s the one I want. The guy sees me and stops. He opens the door, I show the ticket and he waves me on!!! It’s a much smarter and much less bling than yesterday’s!!! The lake is stunning this morning and it’s tranquility with no boats yet it selling its beauty. Then we’re away from it and off down the main roads. It’s a much more local bus and I’m still wondering if it’s correct. We pick up loads which I didn’t do yesterday!! Ah well let the adventure begin potentially!!
The bus is quite full as we hit Puli, the possible last stop before Taichung however more get on than off so I may need to cuddle my backpack soon!! We’re still in the mountains and so shall head to flat land shortly I’m guessing!!
There’s not many seats and a couple of ladies get on. They want to sit near each other. I move my backpack off the seat beside and the woman is shocked. She asks if she can sit (I’m guessing from the gestures) I nod and she sits. I’m aware she is looking at me so I smile and she starts to chat in very fast mandarin I assume, and lots of hand gestures. It’s all quite confusing but I manage to establish with her that I am alone and with the help of maps that I am Scottish. She’s very excited!! She continues to speed up and faster hand gestures! I must look rurally lost as she strokes the lady infronts hair and she turns around. It’s her sister. She’s been living in Lusanne for 40 years so speaks English and Herman. My new friends questions are answered, why I’m here l, where I’ve been etc. She explains that it’s unusual to see ‘white people’ smile at strangers and be on their own! She talks about the wealth thirty people she lives amongst and the difference she sees now here of on going kindness and ‘living from the heart not the pocket’ it’s a nice analogy. We chat a bit then she turns back. Her sister explains that we are almost in Tainan and it’s not hills but flat. I nod and smile. We get off and I say good bye worsh then a lovely trip onto the museum in Taipei and thank them for chatting.
Off to get my next ticket. Easy straight to Tainan then open on to Zuoying. I’ve 36 minutes to wake so I head to grab something to eat for now. A sweet potato pastry it is! I’ve 15 minutes now so wander outside to sit and eat it in the hot sun then I think that I could go up to the platform to wait. I go for my ticket..... it’s not in my bag......I sit for a minute to check me bag fully. And end up beside my friends!! They offer to get me a coffee. I polity say thanks but no thanks as my train leaves soon and bud them another goodbye!. I had it before the shop! It’s now 8 minutes til the train leaves......... there’s no one there so I look on the counter then I notice it on the floor, it must have fallen out when I paid! Phew!! I have 4 minute to get to the platform. The run starts. It’s not far but the station is busy. I make it but just. It’s only 35 minute to destination so not far.
It’s to be 28 degrees so I’m thinking to head south ASAP and enjoy it however I need to decide if I stop in Tainan the old capital today for a couple of hours....... it’s 0725 and the bus puts the luggage door down and I realise it’s the one I want. The guy sees me and stops. He opens the door, I show the ticket and he waves me on!!! It’s a much smarter and much less bling than yesterday’s!!! The lake is stunning this morning and it’s tranquility with no boats yet it selling its beauty. Then we’re away from it and off down the main roads. It’s a much more local bus and I’m still wondering if it’s correct. We pick up loads which I didn’t do yesterday!! Ah well let the adventure begin potentially!!
The bus is quite full as we hit Puli, the possible last stop before Taichung however more get on than off so I may need to cuddle my backpack soon!! We’re still in the mountains and so shall head to flat land shortly I’m guessing!!
There’s not many seats and a couple of ladies get on. They want to sit near each other. I move my backpack off the seat beside and the woman is shocked. She asks if she can sit (I’m guessing from the gestures) I nod and she sits. I’m aware she is looking at me so I smile and she starts to chat in very fast mandarin I assume, and lots of hand gestures. It’s all quite confusing but I manage to establish with her that I am alone and with the help of maps that I am Scottish. She’s very excited!! She continues to speed up and faster hand gestures! I must look rurally lost as she strokes the lady infronts hair and she turns around. It’s her sister. She’s been living in Lusanne for 40 years so speaks English and Herman. My new friends questions are answered, why I’m here l, where I’ve been etc. She explains that it’s unusual to see ‘white people’ smile at strangers and be on their own! She talks about the wealth thirty people she lives amongst and the difference she sees now here of on going kindness and ‘living from the heart not the pocket’ it’s a nice analogy. We chat a bit then she turns back. Her sister explains that we are almost in Tainan and it’s not hills but flat. I nod and smile. We get off and I say good bye worsh then a lovely trip onto the museum in Taipei and thank them for chatting.
Off to get my next ticket. Easy straight to Tainan then open on to Zuoying. I’ve 36 minutes to wake so I head to grab something to eat for now. A sweet potato pastry it is! I’ve 15 minutes now so wander outside to sit and eat it in the hot sun then I think that I could go up to the platform to wait. I go for my ticket..... it’s not in my bag......I sit for a minute to check me bag fully. And end up beside my friends!! They offer to get me a coffee. I polity say thanks but no thanks as my train leaves soon and bud them another goodbye!. I had it before the shop! It’s now 8 minutes til the train leaves......... there’s no one there so I look on the counter then I notice it on the floor, it must have fallen out when I paid! Phew!! I have 4 minute to get to the platform. The run starts. It’s not far but the station is busy. I make it but just. It’s only 35 minute to destination so not far.
The plan: 1-2 hours there then head for coast and the south south!!
Arrival and there’s a small map showing my exits. It looks similar to my one on google but I can’t pick up my location. Follow my nose! There’s a large green area in front of the station, tick, cross this and you’re in the Main Street. It’s awfully quiet for a main city area. I wander on. Eventually I’m starting to think it’s totally wrong, and looking at a sign it appears I’m no where near Tainan! I head back to the station. Retrieve my bag from the storage locker and hear the train is about to leave, I run up the stairs but it’s pulling out as I arrive. Only 15 minutes til next one so not too bad. I can see Tainan in the distance!!! Grrrrrrr the lady knew I wanted to go into the city but didn’t explain it’s not a central station. Lesson learnt and this will be my last HSR as the line ends at Zouying! I watch the high speeds go through the station, yup they’re fast!!!
The landscape continues to be fertile with Plenty is crops and greenhouses. As I head south there’s less Paddy fields. It’s all of 13 minutes to destination. Can’t grumble. Now to find the bus and see when it’s going. I’m back on the tourist bus option I think but I’ll find out which is best in a minute!
Straight forward to ticket and I get a return although not sure if it’s worth it as had wondered about alternative route out, well it’s $600 return and $400 1 way so can figure out later. Platform 1 downstairs. There’s 3-4 buses waiting. I get signalled into one and duely hop on leaving my bag underneath. It doesn’t sound long in 130 minutes but it is when I consider it’s over 2 hours!! Settle down. There is WiFi though but not much use when it’s 0430 in uk etc!!!
I snooze a bit and waken. We’re still in the built up area, with what appears to be loads of fish farms, I’m 1/2 through the journey, then..... suddenly I can see the sea and the sea can see me! It’s a blackish rocky beach by the looks of it, the sun is further down, looks good!
Arrival and there’s a small map showing my exits. It looks similar to my one on google but I can’t pick up my location. Follow my nose! There’s a large green area in front of the station, tick, cross this and you’re in the Main Street. It’s awfully quiet for a main city area. I wander on. Eventually I’m starting to think it’s totally wrong, and looking at a sign it appears I’m no where near Tainan! I head back to the station. Retrieve my bag from the storage locker and hear the train is about to leave, I run up the stairs but it’s pulling out as I arrive. Only 15 minutes til next one so not too bad. I can see Tainan in the distance!!! Grrrrrrr the lady knew I wanted to go into the city but didn’t explain it’s not a central station. Lesson learnt and this will be my last HSR as the line ends at Zouying! I watch the high speeds go through the station, yup they’re fast!!!
The landscape continues to be fertile with Plenty is crops and greenhouses. As I head south there’s less Paddy fields. It’s all of 13 minutes to destination. Can’t grumble. Now to find the bus and see when it’s going. I’m back on the tourist bus option I think but I’ll find out which is best in a minute!
Straight forward to ticket and I get a return although not sure if it’s worth it as had wondered about alternative route out, well it’s $600 return and $400 1 way so can figure out later. Platform 1 downstairs. There’s 3-4 buses waiting. I get signalled into one and duely hop on leaving my bag underneath. It doesn’t sound long in 130 minutes but it is when I consider it’s over 2 hours!! Settle down. There is WiFi though but not much use when it’s 0430 in uk etc!!!
I snooze a bit and waken. We’re still in the built up area, with what appears to be loads of fish farms, I’m 1/2 through the journey, then..... suddenly I can see the sea and the sea can see me! It’s a blackish rocky beach by the looks of it, the sun is further down, looks good!
People start getting off in drips and drabs and for the final 10 minutes I’m alone on the bus.
The sun is shining, just perfect!! There’s some new smart looking houses being built but in the whole it’s definitely off season!! A kids looking area with go carts, horses and buggy trampolines is dead but maybe it’s lunchtime! I’m almost there and we stop for fuel!!! The guy comes on to see if I’m only person I think, he’s not opening the luggage so hopefully I stay here!! He comes and signals sleep..... oh he wants my Hotel. I show him and the map address but must be only 290m away so I offer to walk but he says no and we’re off!
About 39 second later sure enough we pull up and he nod to me. I actually think we’ve oassed it!!! Anyway a quick walk back and I see my spot! It’s opposite a 7-11 and when I pop on there’s no one to be seen. I head over to the 7-11 and grab a dim sum for well I guess lunch!! It’s actually pretty good considering it’s a chain and costs all of .20p!! Back at the hostel I notice a guy has now appeared. It’s 1355 but he’s happy to let me check in. I’ve a bunk room to myself I think but not sure. There’s a locker too. Quick change and it’s time to do the opposite of all the locals and get into that sun!!! I head straight to the beach, no swimming. Darn!! Off to a bay round the corner along a street laden with hotels! There’s quite a few ‘white people’ around!! Lots of surf shops too!!
I pop into the dive shop. There’s not much English but I get the impression it’s $1000 per shore dive. Tempting! Little bay is where I’m heading, and as I get closer I get the impression that it’s a bit of a party place, there’s ‘bar’ trucks lined up in the car park!!! I head down, the music ya playing and there’s lots of people around. This is where they all are!! I pop to the main bar and order a beer, it’s $120 to drink in and $60 to drink on the beach!! No brainer!! I get one and the bar man (max) gives me a large receipt so I can use the toilets!!!!! It’s part of a Hotel beach!!
It’s a lovely chill then a wander back through town. It’s getting set up for the nighttime and the street looks like it turns into one big market. There’s not many people about but it’s only 1730!
The sun is shining, just perfect!! There’s some new smart looking houses being built but in the whole it’s definitely off season!! A kids looking area with go carts, horses and buggy trampolines is dead but maybe it’s lunchtime! I’m almost there and we stop for fuel!!! The guy comes on to see if I’m only person I think, he’s not opening the luggage so hopefully I stay here!! He comes and signals sleep..... oh he wants my Hotel. I show him and the map address but must be only 290m away so I offer to walk but he says no and we’re off!
About 39 second later sure enough we pull up and he nod to me. I actually think we’ve oassed it!!! Anyway a quick walk back and I see my spot! It’s opposite a 7-11 and when I pop on there’s no one to be seen. I head over to the 7-11 and grab a dim sum for well I guess lunch!! It’s actually pretty good considering it’s a chain and costs all of .20p!! Back at the hostel I notice a guy has now appeared. It’s 1355 but he’s happy to let me check in. I’ve a bunk room to myself I think but not sure. There’s a locker too. Quick change and it’s time to do the opposite of all the locals and get into that sun!!! I head straight to the beach, no swimming. Darn!! Off to a bay round the corner along a street laden with hotels! There’s quite a few ‘white people’ around!! Lots of surf shops too!!
I pop into the dive shop. There’s not much English but I get the impression it’s $1000 per shore dive. Tempting! Little bay is where I’m heading, and as I get closer I get the impression that it’s a bit of a party place, there’s ‘bar’ trucks lined up in the car park!!! I head down, the music ya playing and there’s lots of people around. This is where they all are!! I pop to the main bar and order a beer, it’s $120 to drink in and $60 to drink on the beach!! No brainer!! I get one and the bar man (max) gives me a large receipt so I can use the toilets!!!!! It’s part of a Hotel beach!!
It’s a lovely chill then a wander back through town. It’s getting set up for the nighttime and the street looks like it turns into one big market. There’s not many people about but it’s only 1730!
Couple of messages and an update from Mark who is whizzing along! He maybe here in a couple of days possible for Saturday if he pushes himself. As I fly out Tuesday and the east coast is much slower to get up I’ll possibly not cross paths but shall see.
I try to figure it’s the website on the hotels computer but having same problem on there so I’m heading off. I go out and immediately notice the increase in food traffic. In comparison to other cities people just walk across the street. Let’s see what this place has to offer. Well it’s a kilometre funfair and food fest. Oh sue would be so happy!!! Loads of fish things. The same as I’ve seen before in local foods. It’s like shilin but with space oh and plenty of alcohol stands so giving to the potential feel of the weekend. It’s heaving as I wander up the Main Street. How to chose!?! I notice some dim sum I’ve not seen before, 8 for $60. The smell of stinky tofu speeds me past some places!! The vendors don’t even try to change language!! I hear fireworks and suddenly remember it’s a poi day I was told! Maybe that’s why it’s busier!? I pick up a drink. It’s a Cassie black tea google translate tells me!! It tastes if weak cold black tea. I like the look of the prawn balls, then on closer i selections realise it’s chicken feet balls. Vito that!! I pick up a scallion pancake. They are good and she gives me a lettuce leaf in it. I hear german, American accents but it’s few and far between and the odd smile I make is not returned!! I pass the police station and there’s the zebra sitting outside. It’s a popular statue!!! I’m heading down the other side. I’ll do this first tomorrow!! Lots of music blares out of various venues they’re very quiet. I wander down to a bar and pizza place. It contains 2 people. It’s 2130. The on the street bar contains 3 and all European looking. I’m taken back to my time in Sanur, friendly town, relaxed at night and safe feeling. I’m off the main street and heading to the hotel the beach route. The waves are pounding the beach again. Their power can be easily heard.
The traffic lights are quaint here. They have a couple kissing on the red and holding hands to cross in the green. I just can’t get it on my video!!!!
The girl that was here when I left is busy doing selfies. I’m not sure if she works here or just a guest. She’s not for speaking to me!!
I eat the dim sums that reheat in the microwave and message Home etc. Planning to be done for tomorrow!!
I try to figure it’s the website on the hotels computer but having same problem on there so I’m heading off. I go out and immediately notice the increase in food traffic. In comparison to other cities people just walk across the street. Let’s see what this place has to offer. Well it’s a kilometre funfair and food fest. Oh sue would be so happy!!! Loads of fish things. The same as I’ve seen before in local foods. It’s like shilin but with space oh and plenty of alcohol stands so giving to the potential feel of the weekend. It’s heaving as I wander up the Main Street. How to chose!?! I notice some dim sum I’ve not seen before, 8 for $60. The smell of stinky tofu speeds me past some places!! The vendors don’t even try to change language!! I hear fireworks and suddenly remember it’s a poi day I was told! Maybe that’s why it’s busier!? I pick up a drink. It’s a Cassie black tea google translate tells me!! It tastes if weak cold black tea. I like the look of the prawn balls, then on closer i selections realise it’s chicken feet balls. Vito that!! I pick up a scallion pancake. They are good and she gives me a lettuce leaf in it. I hear german, American accents but it’s few and far between and the odd smile I make is not returned!! I pass the police station and there’s the zebra sitting outside. It’s a popular statue!!! I’m heading down the other side. I’ll do this first tomorrow!! Lots of music blares out of various venues they’re very quiet. I wander down to a bar and pizza place. It contains 2 people. It’s 2130. The on the street bar contains 3 and all European looking. I’m taken back to my time in Sanur, friendly town, relaxed at night and safe feeling. I’m off the main street and heading to the hotel the beach route. The waves are pounding the beach again. Their power can be easily heard.
The traffic lights are quaint here. They have a couple kissing on the red and holding hands to cross in the green. I just can’t get it on my video!!!!
The girl that was here when I left is busy doing selfies. I’m not sure if she works here or just a guest. She’s not for speaking to me!!
I eat the dim sums that reheat in the microwave and message Home etc. Planning to be done for tomorrow!!
Day 5 National Park: Kenting
I’m off again. Great sleep had and ready to explore this park. The advise is hire a scooter grr I’ve not brought any driving I’d wjth me and am now too bothered to be making noise in this peaceful area so I’m foot it is. I ca y find push bikes in the couple of shops beside the hostel. It’s 4.5km to the main trails. I spot a loop I can do and as I’ve booked the hostel for another night I have all day to enjoy.
I’m hearing a pug sound from the roadside. Maybe it’s the wild boar?? I’m offered a ride on a scooter by a person passing but decline for now! I have last nights food to walk off!!
It’s a steady incline and I think I’ve spotted my destination, it’s not so far if there was not a large gulley first!! The climb goes on. I pass monkeys who scurry over the road at the sight of me and I assume shout warnings to others. I pass and it’s quiet again.
I’m half way and at the 160 degree bend I meet 9 tour buses coming down! Despite lots of local bus stops I’ve not seen one yet!! There’s lots of little pathways with post boxes at the end so I’m guessing there’s lots of people enjoying the view!!
I’m hearing a pug sound from the roadside. Maybe it’s the wild boar?? I’m offered a ride on a scooter by a person passing but decline for now! I have last nights food to walk off!!
It’s a steady incline and I think I’ve spotted my destination, it’s not so far if there was not a large gulley first!! The climb goes on. I pass monkeys who scurry over the road at the sight of me and I assume shout warnings to others. I pass and it’s quiet again.
I’m half way and at the 160 degree bend I meet 9 tour buses coming down! Despite lots of local bus stops I’ve not seen one yet!! There’s lots of little pathways with post boxes at the end so I’m guessing there’s lots of people enjoying the view!!
I hit the National Park recreational area. It’s 1 km from the park I was heading to and so I take a picture of the view looking down to my hostel and plod on!! I then resecide. It’s 10am and there’s a few bits in here. I have time!! The map I’m given ‘in Chinese and English’ is a little confusing as to the scale! I need to find the maple to get a scale!!! I think this is tree day!! I find the maple. There’s some educational signs around!! The next one however is not to my liking!!
I fill up my bottle in the usual way at the visitors centre. They’ve no cold so 37degree warm it is.
There’s a cave and such on the map so I’m heading that way. Cave closed but they have a cactus garden! As I wander around think Mum and Dad would love this and make far more sense to them.
Formosa now I recognise them. The stones have names on and in the next section it’s aimed towards wildlife I think by their tiles.
I find the cave of stalagmites . It’s not too impressive but it’s cool! I get to the end and I’m to almost crawl into a small cave. I can’t do it as can’t see the exit so I’m heading back the way I came!! There’s another cave with stalagmites but I’m going to give I a miss.
There’s a cave and such on the map so I’m heading that way. Cave closed but they have a cactus garden! As I wander around think Mum and Dad would love this and make far more sense to them.
Formosa now I recognise them. The stones have names on and in the next section it’s aimed towards wildlife I think by their tiles.
I find the cave of stalagmites . It’s not too impressive but it’s cool! I get to the end and I’m to almost crawl into a small cave. I can’t do it as can’t see the exit so I’m heading back the way I came!! There’s another cave with stalagmites but I’m going to give I a miss.
The viewing tower offers coffee!! It’s 11:00 so I’m ready. At the top are amazing views and well worth the walk; putting into perspective the area and landscape. It appears very fertile. It’s windy though and I’m on my own. Wow. Certainly worth the walk! Coffee in hand I head back upstairs to enjoy in the sun and wind!! I’m joined by a large group of people, well large being about 8 but it’s more than I’ve seen all morning!! Time to head back!!! I think I can potentially head out a different exit by the map but I’ve signed in ‘for safety’ so best make sure I head out the same way. Water filled at 25 degrees this time, I’m on my way again. Shall down this bottle and refill at entrance area I think! Rehydrate while I can!!
I head out and there a crowd gathered. They’re filming something. That explains the trucks. I try to ask but the guys instructing traffic wave their hands and look away. Oh well I could pretend it’s a big film!! I believe much of Life if Pi was set here and I can relate to the scenery here (75%). I’m allowed to pass so off I go down the hill for 1km to the entrance. It’s along a road so not as nice as the previous part but I can head off into a track in a bit and they’re very good at signposting them!
Back to visitors centre and time to upload for Mum and Dads breakfast update!!! It’s midday and been stunning morning. The WiFi won’t connect. Aaarrggghhh! Sorry Mum!!
I head out and there a crowd gathered. They’re filming something. That explains the trucks. I try to ask but the guys instructing traffic wave their hands and look away. Oh well I could pretend it’s a big film!! I believe much of Life if Pi was set here and I can relate to the scenery here (75%). I’m allowed to pass so off I go down the hill for 1km to the entrance. It’s along a road so not as nice as the previous part but I can head off into a track in a bit and they’re very good at signposting them!
Back to visitors centre and time to upload for Mum and Dads breakfast update!!! It’s midday and been stunning morning. The WiFi won’t connect. Aaarrggghhh! Sorry Mum!!
I find sun and a bench in the visitors centre and meet a german couple also back packing around. They are from Frankfurt and have retired and regularly head off. They’ve been here 1 week also and love it. I reassure them that the walk to the viewing platform is not as hard as the one up here!!
I’m moderately reassured that, as the heat peaks at 29 degrees and the occasional cloud only, I’m heading back down hill I hope!!! I may not be eager to jump into as many verges on the way down if there are snakes!! For anyone accessing this for information, the disabled loo at the entrance is the only upright type loo, rest through out are local hover and pee options!! Although sure Rachael and my OT team would frown upon the space on there to manoeuvre!!
As I wander off I’m playing the alphabet country game, where do I need to go to get all my missing letters:
I pass the park I was going to. There’s very little info and so I go to buy an ice cream and head on. The lady speaks great English and I chose the local favourites of red bean and a mint chip for freshness. They’re big scoops and she asks for $40. Wow. Takes me back to Bulgaria when he scooped it in then weighed it so didn’t know the price!!
I pass an entrance to the park and there’s a map so some info. Let’s do it! In I go and head for pavilion 1: you can see eagles from here, but it’s the butterflies hovering in the breeze that catches my eye. There big and elegant next the gorge. I can hear loads of people from here. It’s 259m walk or so it says......up there there are huge groups of kids jumping for photos and screaming. I meet a couple of white people, they’re Canadian and biking round the place. They’ve been to Bali for a month and 2 weeks here. I give them my HSR timetable as they’re struggling with finding info and I’m not needing it any more. We chat and wander round for about an hour, and Then I realise that heading out the wrong way and going back to the ice cream place!!! Oooops. Ah well it’s nice to chat sk I continue. I show them the ice cream lady and we part our ways .
I’m moderately reassured that, as the heat peaks at 29 degrees and the occasional cloud only, I’m heading back down hill I hope!!! I may not be eager to jump into as many verges on the way down if there are snakes!! For anyone accessing this for information, the disabled loo at the entrance is the only upright type loo, rest through out are local hover and pee options!! Although sure Rachael and my OT team would frown upon the space on there to manoeuvre!!
As I wander off I’m playing the alphabet country game, where do I need to go to get all my missing letters:
I pass the park I was going to. There’s very little info and so I go to buy an ice cream and head on. The lady speaks great English and I chose the local favourites of red bean and a mint chip for freshness. They’re big scoops and she asks for $40. Wow. Takes me back to Bulgaria when he scooped it in then weighed it so didn’t know the price!!
I pass an entrance to the park and there’s a map so some info. Let’s do it! In I go and head for pavilion 1: you can see eagles from here, but it’s the butterflies hovering in the breeze that catches my eye. There big and elegant next the gorge. I can hear loads of people from here. It’s 259m walk or so it says......up there there are huge groups of kids jumping for photos and screaming. I meet a couple of white people, they’re Canadian and biking round the place. They’ve been to Bali for a month and 2 weeks here. I give them my HSR timetable as they’re struggling with finding info and I’m not needing it any more. We chat and wander round for about an hour, and Then I realise that heading out the wrong way and going back to the ice cream place!!! Oooops. Ah well it’s nice to chat sk I continue. I show them the ice cream lady and we part our ways .
It’s 1430 and I’m heading back down the road. My destination looks far and I’m thinking it’s going to be a long walk home!!! At least it’s warm and dry still!! I have 6 hours until rain forecast!!
I find myself trotting down the hill. It’s certainly steeper that the other side. Civilisation appears over the side!!! The gullets and streams are dry which is not expected. It’s 15:00 and I’m back at sea level. It’s a bright town looks clean and new! I’d contemplated stopping here but bus schedule wasn’t clear so I didn’t and I think I’d have liked it. I’ll recommend to Mark. It’s quaint and simple.
It’s hot down here and I need some tefreshment so I grab a ice cream shake at the local cafe / street kitchen. It’s a banana that was grown here. So good!!! The beach is lovely and quiet. Lots of jet skis etc are waiting for use but there’s no one around and the waves are rolling in nicely. It’s not far back along the highway to the little bay beach. Maybe a beer will add to my liquid count today!! Heading down I meet a couple of girls on the way back up the stairs. They tell me there’s 15 buses of Taipei school kids arriving in a trip!! I buy a beer from Mo again and spot wine very white girls over the far end. They n be Scottish it Irish’s sure enough they are. School teachers doing 10 days also here and have come down the opposite side to me. We chat for a while then I go get beers and settle in for the sunset!yhe school kids are blocked from the water by the life guards and a long piece of string!! It amuses us as the waves soak the guys with the rope! It’s cloudy and not impressive sunset but the girls I previously met are back and we start chatting. Steph has broken her elbow in Vietnam and had it pinned 4 weeks ago. She’s self treating and sounds sensible in her approach. They will go on to Philippines so I’ll see if I can find contacts there for her. We swap numbers.
I find myself trotting down the hill. It’s certainly steeper that the other side. Civilisation appears over the side!!! The gullets and streams are dry which is not expected. It’s 15:00 and I’m back at sea level. It’s a bright town looks clean and new! I’d contemplated stopping here but bus schedule wasn’t clear so I didn’t and I think I’d have liked it. I’ll recommend to Mark. It’s quaint and simple.
It’s hot down here and I need some tefreshment so I grab a ice cream shake at the local cafe / street kitchen. It’s a banana that was grown here. So good!!! The beach is lovely and quiet. Lots of jet skis etc are waiting for use but there’s no one around and the waves are rolling in nicely. It’s not far back along the highway to the little bay beach. Maybe a beer will add to my liquid count today!! Heading down I meet a couple of girls on the way back up the stairs. They tell me there’s 15 buses of Taipei school kids arriving in a trip!! I buy a beer from Mo again and spot wine very white girls over the far end. They n be Scottish it Irish’s sure enough they are. School teachers doing 10 days also here and have come down the opposite side to me. We chat for a while then I go get beers and settle in for the sunset!yhe school kids are blocked from the water by the life guards and a long piece of string!! It amuses us as the waves soak the guys with the rope! It’s cloudy and not impressive sunset but the girls I previously met are back and we start chatting. Steph has broken her elbow in Vietnam and had it pinned 4 weeks ago. She’s self treating and sounds sensible in her approach. They will go on to Philippines so I’ll see if I can find contacts there for her. We swap numbers.
Time for return and shower and we all part our ways. I may see them in the street market later.the WiFi in the hostel will not connect so I’m a little stuck for now so head back out. I meet a guy I’d seen earlier who has his scuba mask and roller blades with him. He’s from Spain and over here modelling in Taichung. He’s going to sleep hippy style under the stars. He’s keen I visit Galicia so gives me his number to contact him when I do! Just have to hope the WiFi is working when I get back!!
I’m back and nice lot of messages waiting as WiFi is up and running. Mark not far off so my lack of planning works out as I’ll stay 1 more day and catch up with him. Maybe I’ll see the girls too as missed them at the market. (Ciara and Helena). 2 rooms booked and I can chill!! The scurry up the east will start Saturday to Hualien where the earthquakes have been, Sunday Toroko Gorge and then Monday and Tuesday the north coast to airport I think!
I’m back and nice lot of messages waiting as WiFi is up and running. Mark not far off so my lack of planning works out as I’ll stay 1 more day and catch up with him. Maybe I’ll see the girls too as missed them at the market. (Ciara and Helena). 2 rooms booked and I can chill!! The scurry up the east will start Saturday to Hualien where the earthquakes have been, Sunday Toroko Gorge and then Monday and Tuesday the north coast to airport I think!
Day 6, the beach!!
Well it’s another sunny morning and Mark due in today so I’ve decided it’s shopping day! First stop coffee and get me out!!
I see some cute boarding shirts and shorts for Fraser so message Karen who’s off on holiday today too. Most of the shops have not opened yet and the post office is closed so that plan also no good!! The local police zebra I hope has cameras in his eyes as that would just fit the place!!! I find an espresso in a little local supermarket (well not the 7-11) and it comes with a near wee handle! I think I’ve found my bus stop for tomorrow so that’s great. I’m think james will prefer a name on his and I can find quick silver. I’ve just messaged Karen commenting on the concept ‘made in Taiwan’ and ironically they’re all made in Thailand!!! More fool me!!! There’s a few ‘whites’ around but I’m really noticing that they drop their heads as walk past. Totally the opposite from the locals!
Off to the no swim beach. It’s holiday time!! The waves are crashing in and the surfers are happy!! The wind is blowing the sand but I take to higher ground and avoid getting hit too badly thanks to the aloe beside me. It is a swirling wind so the odd covering of sand occurs!! Planning the next 3 days time!
Hualien I think Saturday. It’ll take most of the day with an early start, then Toroko gorge Sunday morning and off up to juifen was the original plan and I’ll stick with that I think, then Monday round the coast to Taipei north again. I fly out late Tuesday so have time to chill that day or do shopping. I know who lockers etc work so no worry about leaving luggage for a while. I fly at 7pm so need to be in Taipei station by 4 I’m thinking to get out there! Loads of Tuesday to enjoy.
Mark arrives just after midday, not bad for 76km and a long uphill into the park! He’s ready for lunch after a shower. I’ve noted the place over the road so we head there. Decision to do a wash is made as joys of a hostel is all this is available. Perfect I can chuck in my bits and all clean again!
Fantastic lunch, freshly made, and wash on (powder sold in the hostel) we head into town for swimmers for Mark. Choice is amazing and he picks up some for £2!!! I introduce him to the Main Street and the other street, town tour done!!! Back to hang out the washing and head to the beach.
There’s another group of kids on the beach, we later learn they’re 12 year olds down from Puli near SunMoon lake, and loving the beach! We can’t sit in the bar and the umbrellas today are $300 so we find a rock to sit at and join Drew an American living out here. He’s married to a Taiwanese girl who had moved to USA when she was 8 and they were working like shops in the night so he suggested time out and travel and they never left here! He’s very happy and recently moved south to here and trying to teach English.... Dani the Spanish guy I met last night joins too but no sight of the girls.
The school kids had been on the other end of the beach now steve on our side and line up in front of us. They’re doing a running team game. They must run to a stick, pick up a pair of sandals and drop them. If they land one upright and one face down then they run back and take the next one in! Simple but they love it!! They are encouraged to talk to us but all too shy!! They are just starting English! Not long after they are done and head towards the water. Soon the waves are crashing round them and they are all in. They are trying to get the teachers in too, and succeed except for the 2 with the microphones and music blaster!! Their enjoyment of it all is obvious! We’re not sure they can swim as beaches were banned areas during the previous regime.
Sun setting so head to watch on main beach leaving the kids having fun (75 or so of them). They didn’t bring bags so it’ll be a cold walk back we are thinking!
Sunset is nice but the waves are crashing in again, Drew had explained this was due to a typhoon in the Philippines that was a couple of days ago and thus the waves and winds are hitting us. Maybe not good for cycling! It’s stunning force of wave and there’s a big drop into the sea made by the sand now. Tide is certainly higher than earlier. After the sun goes behind the cloud it’s a shower and then to the place next door for Japanese food, and amazing as always it was.
I take Mark to experience the night market and there’s nothing too exciting he feels either so as the rain starts, we head back through the centre to the hostel to chill out. I have a bottle of wine we could have!! Although now we have to as I buy a ‘?black wheat wine!?’. Haha! Yes Mum another to try!!
When we are back in the hostel there’s another bike sat there, and a Chinese guy, Tiger, has just arrived. Immediately we strike up conversation and his English slowly increases in confidence.
He’s been coming down the east and will head back on the west. Mark and him trade routes as I get the wine and 2 cups from the hostel manager. He’s only got 2 and declines the wine offer! We all drink some, it’s a little like sherry and ok to drink! Mark headed out for a cigarette and bumped into Dani also so brings him in. We start chatting further and he gets out his ‘flute’ or recorder as I would recognise it more and starts playing some traditional music from Spain. We cover politics and music through the evening. Tiger is very interesting to listen to but he’s struggling with David accent and I’m translating the English to English!!!
Sleep is setting in, it’s 2230 so we bid goodnight and leave Dani and Tiger to contrive. By the sounds of it they chat for quite a while so must have started to get his ear into Spanish accents!!
It’s been a bonus nice day, tomorrow will be a lot of travel so sleep will not be an issue!!!
I see some cute boarding shirts and shorts for Fraser so message Karen who’s off on holiday today too. Most of the shops have not opened yet and the post office is closed so that plan also no good!! The local police zebra I hope has cameras in his eyes as that would just fit the place!!! I find an espresso in a little local supermarket (well not the 7-11) and it comes with a near wee handle! I think I’ve found my bus stop for tomorrow so that’s great. I’m think james will prefer a name on his and I can find quick silver. I’ve just messaged Karen commenting on the concept ‘made in Taiwan’ and ironically they’re all made in Thailand!!! More fool me!!! There’s a few ‘whites’ around but I’m really noticing that they drop their heads as walk past. Totally the opposite from the locals!
Off to the no swim beach. It’s holiday time!! The waves are crashing in and the surfers are happy!! The wind is blowing the sand but I take to higher ground and avoid getting hit too badly thanks to the aloe beside me. It is a swirling wind so the odd covering of sand occurs!! Planning the next 3 days time!
Hualien I think Saturday. It’ll take most of the day with an early start, then Toroko gorge Sunday morning and off up to juifen was the original plan and I’ll stick with that I think, then Monday round the coast to Taipei north again. I fly out late Tuesday so have time to chill that day or do shopping. I know who lockers etc work so no worry about leaving luggage for a while. I fly at 7pm so need to be in Taipei station by 4 I’m thinking to get out there! Loads of Tuesday to enjoy.
Mark arrives just after midday, not bad for 76km and a long uphill into the park! He’s ready for lunch after a shower. I’ve noted the place over the road so we head there. Decision to do a wash is made as joys of a hostel is all this is available. Perfect I can chuck in my bits and all clean again!
Fantastic lunch, freshly made, and wash on (powder sold in the hostel) we head into town for swimmers for Mark. Choice is amazing and he picks up some for £2!!! I introduce him to the Main Street and the other street, town tour done!!! Back to hang out the washing and head to the beach.
There’s another group of kids on the beach, we later learn they’re 12 year olds down from Puli near SunMoon lake, and loving the beach! We can’t sit in the bar and the umbrellas today are $300 so we find a rock to sit at and join Drew an American living out here. He’s married to a Taiwanese girl who had moved to USA when she was 8 and they were working like shops in the night so he suggested time out and travel and they never left here! He’s very happy and recently moved south to here and trying to teach English.... Dani the Spanish guy I met last night joins too but no sight of the girls.
The school kids had been on the other end of the beach now steve on our side and line up in front of us. They’re doing a running team game. They must run to a stick, pick up a pair of sandals and drop them. If they land one upright and one face down then they run back and take the next one in! Simple but they love it!! They are encouraged to talk to us but all too shy!! They are just starting English! Not long after they are done and head towards the water. Soon the waves are crashing round them and they are all in. They are trying to get the teachers in too, and succeed except for the 2 with the microphones and music blaster!! Their enjoyment of it all is obvious! We’re not sure they can swim as beaches were banned areas during the previous regime.
Sun setting so head to watch on main beach leaving the kids having fun (75 or so of them). They didn’t bring bags so it’ll be a cold walk back we are thinking!
Sunset is nice but the waves are crashing in again, Drew had explained this was due to a typhoon in the Philippines that was a couple of days ago and thus the waves and winds are hitting us. Maybe not good for cycling! It’s stunning force of wave and there’s a big drop into the sea made by the sand now. Tide is certainly higher than earlier. After the sun goes behind the cloud it’s a shower and then to the place next door for Japanese food, and amazing as always it was.
I take Mark to experience the night market and there’s nothing too exciting he feels either so as the rain starts, we head back through the centre to the hostel to chill out. I have a bottle of wine we could have!! Although now we have to as I buy a ‘?black wheat wine!?’. Haha! Yes Mum another to try!!
When we are back in the hostel there’s another bike sat there, and a Chinese guy, Tiger, has just arrived. Immediately we strike up conversation and his English slowly increases in confidence.
He’s been coming down the east and will head back on the west. Mark and him trade routes as I get the wine and 2 cups from the hostel manager. He’s only got 2 and declines the wine offer! We all drink some, it’s a little like sherry and ok to drink! Mark headed out for a cigarette and bumped into Dani also so brings him in. We start chatting further and he gets out his ‘flute’ or recorder as I would recognise it more and starts playing some traditional music from Spain. We cover politics and music through the evening. Tiger is very interesting to listen to but he’s struggling with David accent and I’m translating the English to English!!!
Sleep is setting in, it’s 2230 so we bid goodnight and leave Dani and Tiger to contrive. By the sounds of it they chat for quite a while so must have started to get his ear into Spanish accents!!
It’s been a bonus nice day, tomorrow will be a lot of travel so sleep will not be an issue!!!
Day 8: the Travel:
So the morning starts with coffee and dim sum sadly from the 7-11 opposite but they do the job. I get more stickers that I’ve established will purchase a funny little mug thing that you can use for tea of growing plants in. I go to ask for one for Alice but they’ve run out and I can’t get in this store. The bus is due in 10 minutes and I don’t have time to run up the road to get one there so I have to hope it’s still available in another location!!Mark is trying to figure out the wind which is gusting again. Head wind and he’s taking a bus cross wind and he’ll go for it. We think it’s a cross wind so buy a sushi set for lunch as not sure how the train will be and back to pack and head off. So it’s time to bid another farewell to Mark and adventure of how to get to the north west begins. At the bus stop good old Dani trundles past. He’s slept on the beach until heavy rain started so can’t into town to find shelter but the owner moved him on! Poor guy. His rollerblades are soaked inside also. He’s had enough of taiwan and will fly to Philippines on 12th so can’t wait!! The old guys hanging around the bus stop are looking after me. The Kenting shuttle bus passes and I go to get on but they shout no and point at the next one. Kenting express. I jump out and they shout to put out my arm to hail it so do as I’m told and he duly stops. I hand over my ticket and the driver says something and nods his head to the right to go on. We are sort of parked in the middle of the road!! He doesn’t give me a option to put my luggage below and it’s not long before I establish it’s not going to fit on the rack above my head so it’ll have to take up a seat!!! The road is familiar and not too busy at present which is great!
I’m in Hengchun now and it’s more populated and much more busy with street breakfasts again. Back to civilisation already. There’s plenty of activity and the fields are full of people working before it’s too warm I guess. There’s lots of strange circles in the hillside. I catch them also on google earth but not sure what they’re about. We’re near the ‘museum of marine life and biological institute’ the auto person on the bus states but that’s the 3rd time it’s announced that so no idea really where it is!!! Onions. Mass piles of onions. They do use a lot though and garlic!! I establish that there maybe a stop at Fang-Liao station which is much better for me as it saves back tracking down by 1.5 hours so I’m going to keep fingers crossed and watch google maps location!! At least I’m fast off as my backpack is beside me!! I think though from what information I can find, that it’s the next stop.
On up the coast. It’s a calm day on the east and lots of windsurfing potential. Bridget you’d love the kite surfing if there was any!!
I arrive in Fung-Liao and head to the station to establish my onward journey. I’m getting a train in 1 hour so time to explore a bit and sort out stamps etc. I have a 40 minute change in Taitung so can explore basics there and arrive 1435 into Hualien where my hostel for tonight is 5 minute walk away so plenty of time to suss out and establish my onward trip to Toroko Gorge tomorrow morning. I leave my backpack at the station for $30 and head to the post office I passed. It’s Saturday of course so busy! 11 people in front of my ticket. Maybe some left already!?!? It’s hot and I can feel it so the aircon is a relief!! Yes whizzing through as numbers seem to have left!! Most of the information etc is in English in here so maybe there’s more tourism than I expect. Suddenly the numbers stop moving and I notice only 1 counter is working!!! Oh it’s like the rest of the world after all!!! Suddenly i realise I’m at banking and there’s a different counter for post. I head over and the guy looks very uncomfortable. He signals a girl over who can speak a little English. I show on google maps uk and try to sign for a stamp, not so easy, then I ask for 4. Wait and see what I get!! He’s very confused looking!! Opens more books....... frowns more....... not a normal request maybe!! He goes to ask another person....... sorry guys if this is the wrong price. Oooops!! He’s studying lots!! Asks another friend! And lift off..... $33 each. We’ll see if they arrive!! 20 minutes later time moving fast!
I pass a 7-11 and decide to get this little thing for Alice. They have only 1 left and I have no idea what it is. Although the box is not so small. Oh then she gives me more stickers and another book!! I’ve found a camera icon on the map so shall grab there up the back streets. I find a guy cutting meticulously something into shreds! It’s more humid now too and I can see how Nark would have struggled with it although the wind is sheltered by the mountains. There’s trees with plastic bags on them.... more plastic, I’ve seen lots of this around but not sure what they are so photo and challenge Mum!! I find the camera thing. It’s a tiled mosaic area with a large mural which I can’t make out but assume it’s for Train incomers as beside the tracks and heading back fo the station. There’s also (sadly in white) a dog lying in a style familiar to Corrie!!
10 minutes til Train I think! My post office stop meant I didn’t get to the coast but as it’s Saturday and easter weekend I’m not sure how much they’ll have open. I believe they have a week long festival of the tomb sweepers.
On up the coast. It’s a calm day on the east and lots of windsurfing potential. Bridget you’d love the kite surfing if there was any!!
I arrive in Fung-Liao and head to the station to establish my onward journey. I’m getting a train in 1 hour so time to explore a bit and sort out stamps etc. I have a 40 minute change in Taitung so can explore basics there and arrive 1435 into Hualien where my hostel for tonight is 5 minute walk away so plenty of time to suss out and establish my onward trip to Toroko Gorge tomorrow morning. I leave my backpack at the station for $30 and head to the post office I passed. It’s Saturday of course so busy! 11 people in front of my ticket. Maybe some left already!?!? It’s hot and I can feel it so the aircon is a relief!! Yes whizzing through as numbers seem to have left!! Most of the information etc is in English in here so maybe there’s more tourism than I expect. Suddenly the numbers stop moving and I notice only 1 counter is working!!! Oh it’s like the rest of the world after all!!! Suddenly i realise I’m at banking and there’s a different counter for post. I head over and the guy looks very uncomfortable. He signals a girl over who can speak a little English. I show on google maps uk and try to sign for a stamp, not so easy, then I ask for 4. Wait and see what I get!! He’s very confused looking!! Opens more books....... frowns more....... not a normal request maybe!! He goes to ask another person....... sorry guys if this is the wrong price. Oooops!! He’s studying lots!! Asks another friend! And lift off..... $33 each. We’ll see if they arrive!! 20 minutes later time moving fast!
I pass a 7-11 and decide to get this little thing for Alice. They have only 1 left and I have no idea what it is. Although the box is not so small. Oh then she gives me more stickers and another book!! I’ve found a camera icon on the map so shall grab there up the back streets. I find a guy cutting meticulously something into shreds! It’s more humid now too and I can see how Nark would have struggled with it although the wind is sheltered by the mountains. There’s trees with plastic bags on them.... more plastic, I’ve seen lots of this around but not sure what they are so photo and challenge Mum!! I find the camera thing. It’s a tiled mosaic area with a large mural which I can’t make out but assume it’s for Train incomers as beside the tracks and heading back fo the station. There’s also (sadly in white) a dog lying in a style familiar to Corrie!!
10 minutes til Train I think! My post office stop meant I didn’t get to the coast but as it’s Saturday and easter weekend I’m not sure how much they’ll have open. I believe they have a week long festival of the tomb sweepers.
Maybe the flowers are something to do with the fruits I have not yet identified as a map in the station shows lots of growing areas for them. More challenge Mum and Dad!! Turns out it’s not a electrical activated card so having tried to use it on the scanner the guy smiles, takes it and crossed it off!! Ooops!! A couple of girls have pull along bags, the station allowed them over the tracks and a drop down floor takes them to the platform, so typical of convenience of here. No health a safety overhaul just warnings and do it at your own risk attitude. Here’s the train. Looking forward to the views in this leg!
They’re extensive as we head through the mountains. I feel like I’m heading home as the tunnels are frequent as if coming out of Kings Cross then it’s beach, like Berwick, except much more rough and dark sand!! Welcome to the west coast! Dani and Drew both said it’s not a swimming coast so glad I did that yesterday! You can see the extent the sand is pulled back and outwards. Makes it a lovely picture but but I think too safe to swim!
As I arrive into Taitung it’s getting cloudy and I’ve not seen grey clouds for a couple of day!! Oh dear. Don’t want to wish them over the mountain either as that’s where Mark is!!! I’ll take what I get I guess!!
As I leave the station I must stamp my own ticket to exit on the table to the side of the gate!! Unique!! So once again WiFi will not work so this time I’m following the crowds!! There’s a bit more life here but no information in English at the desk so as long as I’m back in 59 minutes I’m good!!! The wind is blowing dust around the area is bones and cat shops!! Rental scooter $300 for an hour. The mountains have disappeared now behind the cloud. I’ve time I think!! I head down a random street and another. It’s looking like new builds here, smart and high class suburb. I find a 7-11 and it’s got WiFi so can check out options, and get a coffee. The mugs gave locations on them. Earlier Mark hit Paris and me Washington DC. This time I get Tokyo. It’s spitting the places I’ve not yet been!!!
I find where I am and there’s not much more to here so I head ha m to the station with 10 minutes to go. Im a mile or so away from the centre and no time to do that! Return to find my platform etc!
The train is there already so get into my seat. I notice the sign on the platform opposite says it’s 11 degrees, wow I’m obviously made for the cold; I’m still in shirt and t-shirt!!The seat head covers make me giggle a little!!
We leave and my seat this time is on the coastal side so I’m not seeing the grey cloud over the highest peaks!! Bonus! We’re in what looks like reasonable fertile area for farming again and the area between houses is large so unsure how it works, large land plots of many in one together. Rice, maize, and banana I can recognise, only!! The rest I’ll see again if Dad and Mum can guess from the whizz past photos!! It’s like a basin I’m going through. Mountains either side and lush land in between. The journey is only 1h27 so not too bad!!
As we enter into Yuli station there’s a picture of what I think is a teddy bear made in the rice fields. The train is moving slightly too fast to get a good shot sadly and a coupe of bushes get in the way. There’s a big pick up in Yuli, but I’m guessing its because it’s the fast train to Taipei.
It’s looking gloomy now and certainly sunless!! There’s potentially signs of damage from the earthquakes 4 weeks ago with bridges down and being rebuilt. Mark was informed that small ones are always good because without the small they have to anticipate a big one. The tunnels are open for the trains, and there’s plenty of them with train warnings to ensure you follow the signs and listen to the train crew in the event of an emergency.
Well I’m here, 6 hours of travel and a couple of walks in between(7000 steps and approx 2.5 miles) I’m glad to get out!!! We’re 20 minutes late also! Perfect though as check in starts now! Bag drop and go!! It’s up 5 flights of stairs, well I’m going to be at the top of a rubble heap if I do get hit by an earthquake. But it’s very quiet! Bonus!
They’re extensive as we head through the mountains. I feel like I’m heading home as the tunnels are frequent as if coming out of Kings Cross then it’s beach, like Berwick, except much more rough and dark sand!! Welcome to the west coast! Dani and Drew both said it’s not a swimming coast so glad I did that yesterday! You can see the extent the sand is pulled back and outwards. Makes it a lovely picture but but I think too safe to swim!
As I arrive into Taitung it’s getting cloudy and I’ve not seen grey clouds for a couple of day!! Oh dear. Don’t want to wish them over the mountain either as that’s where Mark is!!! I’ll take what I get I guess!!
As I leave the station I must stamp my own ticket to exit on the table to the side of the gate!! Unique!! So once again WiFi will not work so this time I’m following the crowds!! There’s a bit more life here but no information in English at the desk so as long as I’m back in 59 minutes I’m good!!! The wind is blowing dust around the area is bones and cat shops!! Rental scooter $300 for an hour. The mountains have disappeared now behind the cloud. I’ve time I think!! I head down a random street and another. It’s looking like new builds here, smart and high class suburb. I find a 7-11 and it’s got WiFi so can check out options, and get a coffee. The mugs gave locations on them. Earlier Mark hit Paris and me Washington DC. This time I get Tokyo. It’s spitting the places I’ve not yet been!!!
I find where I am and there’s not much more to here so I head ha m to the station with 10 minutes to go. Im a mile or so away from the centre and no time to do that! Return to find my platform etc!
The train is there already so get into my seat. I notice the sign on the platform opposite says it’s 11 degrees, wow I’m obviously made for the cold; I’m still in shirt and t-shirt!!The seat head covers make me giggle a little!!
We leave and my seat this time is on the coastal side so I’m not seeing the grey cloud over the highest peaks!! Bonus! We’re in what looks like reasonable fertile area for farming again and the area between houses is large so unsure how it works, large land plots of many in one together. Rice, maize, and banana I can recognise, only!! The rest I’ll see again if Dad and Mum can guess from the whizz past photos!! It’s like a basin I’m going through. Mountains either side and lush land in between. The journey is only 1h27 so not too bad!!
As we enter into Yuli station there’s a picture of what I think is a teddy bear made in the rice fields. The train is moving slightly too fast to get a good shot sadly and a coupe of bushes get in the way. There’s a big pick up in Yuli, but I’m guessing its because it’s the fast train to Taipei.
It’s looking gloomy now and certainly sunless!! There’s potentially signs of damage from the earthquakes 4 weeks ago with bridges down and being rebuilt. Mark was informed that small ones are always good because without the small they have to anticipate a big one. The tunnels are open for the trains, and there’s plenty of them with train warnings to ensure you follow the signs and listen to the train crew in the event of an emergency.
Well I’m here, 6 hours of travel and a couple of walks in between(7000 steps and approx 2.5 miles) I’m glad to get out!!! We’re 20 minutes late also! Perfect though as check in starts now! Bag drop and go!! It’s up 5 flights of stairs, well I’m going to be at the top of a rubble heap if I do get hit by an earthquake. But it’s very quiet! Bonus!
I’ve left the hostel, mums coffee today hopefully joined with my update! It’s muggy but I’m taking a chance!! The main road is strewn with lanterns and I even pass some Christmas trees!!! Down the underpass and my instinct to hold me breath kicks in, but the dampness is from rain water as it smells fine! Some, what look like fighter jets head overhead. No one (except me!) look twice!! I’m unsure how the traffic lights work! I think you just walk!!! At times I take the ‘of she’s going I’m going’ attitude! Schools our, Saturday 1600??? I later learn from tomorrow’s friend that this is making up for the days lost in the coming holiday!!!
Yup more xmas trees??? Maybe they use them for this festival.
The old railway line has been made into a sort of craft market and has little boutiques etc. Looks like it’ll hold the night scene too!! I find a milk shop selling all things milk. I have my sweet potato ice cream at last!! Well is just cold sweet potato balls!! Now to find the bin!!!! It’s certainly one of the biggest challenges for a traveller in Taiwan!!!
As I walk up the Main Street back to my hostel the varied array of smells hit me from each shop. Pass the baker, the Chinese medicine and then the garage!! I pass my second ever beggar. Overall I feel like I’m back in an area made for tourism and very Chinese. Maybe I’ve hit this city at the time it’s just done the decorations but I’m not sure. I guess I liked the friendliness of Kenting with its 2 streets and laid back natures. However for a town that hit headlines less than 6 weeks ago with a moderate earthquake centre I see very little sign of the effects, although I’m not wishing to, but I expected a little more chaos!! Well done Hualien!
Back to the beef noodle place next door. The hostel man has just come out and gives me the thumbs up. I love my noodles!!! I choose the beef noodle soup but another comes out and explains that this has no beef so I need to have the beef noodles! Oh well that’ll do!! Everyone else’s looks amazing! Mama comes out from the back and smiles! It’s not long before I get my soup and it’s fab. The beef is very tender and it’s got a great flavour. I notice after a few minutes that again I am everyone’s amusement and I am not sure if they’re filming, but no the younger guy comes over and has google translate saying ‘do you eat chilli?’ I give thumbs up and there’s much laughter from the 2 guys and a look of uncertainty from the ladies. They go to the fridge and bring out a bowl of fresh chilli sauce. I take a small spoonful and eat it! They’re shocked!! Then the google translate ‘do you need some tea?’ I say no, I’m fine, had much worse. I try to explain I have travelled in places like Indonesia so hot is ok!! They leave me to enjoy the rest and get my head around tomorrow’s options. The leaflet is good but I have to figure out the luggage etc. I’m going to call it a night and head to wifi world of my room! Oh I need a pen so off I trot to the 7-11 (now I feel like a local in the culture of the world of 7-11) and ask about a ticket for the gorge. She says you can’t buy in advance so I’ll head tomorrow early to sort it out. I ideally want to leave my bag at Xincheng station and then go on to Juifen after.
On getting into WiFi Mark has survived his day, just with some heavy traffic to negotiate, and Brenda is messaging too which was lovely.
Ok I think I’m sorted. I need to take the local train tomorrow at 6.47 and then get the bus from the station. Now for the accomodation!!!!
Yup more xmas trees??? Maybe they use them for this festival.
The old railway line has been made into a sort of craft market and has little boutiques etc. Looks like it’ll hold the night scene too!! I find a milk shop selling all things milk. I have my sweet potato ice cream at last!! Well is just cold sweet potato balls!! Now to find the bin!!!! It’s certainly one of the biggest challenges for a traveller in Taiwan!!!
As I walk up the Main Street back to my hostel the varied array of smells hit me from each shop. Pass the baker, the Chinese medicine and then the garage!! I pass my second ever beggar. Overall I feel like I’m back in an area made for tourism and very Chinese. Maybe I’ve hit this city at the time it’s just done the decorations but I’m not sure. I guess I liked the friendliness of Kenting with its 2 streets and laid back natures. However for a town that hit headlines less than 6 weeks ago with a moderate earthquake centre I see very little sign of the effects, although I’m not wishing to, but I expected a little more chaos!! Well done Hualien!
Back to the beef noodle place next door. The hostel man has just come out and gives me the thumbs up. I love my noodles!!! I choose the beef noodle soup but another comes out and explains that this has no beef so I need to have the beef noodles! Oh well that’ll do!! Everyone else’s looks amazing! Mama comes out from the back and smiles! It’s not long before I get my soup and it’s fab. The beef is very tender and it’s got a great flavour. I notice after a few minutes that again I am everyone’s amusement and I am not sure if they’re filming, but no the younger guy comes over and has google translate saying ‘do you eat chilli?’ I give thumbs up and there’s much laughter from the 2 guys and a look of uncertainty from the ladies. They go to the fridge and bring out a bowl of fresh chilli sauce. I take a small spoonful and eat it! They’re shocked!! Then the google translate ‘do you need some tea?’ I say no, I’m fine, had much worse. I try to explain I have travelled in places like Indonesia so hot is ok!! They leave me to enjoy the rest and get my head around tomorrow’s options. The leaflet is good but I have to figure out the luggage etc. I’m going to call it a night and head to wifi world of my room! Oh I need a pen so off I trot to the 7-11 (now I feel like a local in the culture of the world of 7-11) and ask about a ticket for the gorge. She says you can’t buy in advance so I’ll head tomorrow early to sort it out. I ideally want to leave my bag at Xincheng station and then go on to Juifen after.
On getting into WiFi Mark has survived his day, just with some heavy traffic to negotiate, and Brenda is messaging too which was lovely.
Ok I think I’m sorted. I need to take the local train tomorrow at 6.47 and then get the bus from the station. Now for the accomodation!!!!
Day 9: The Gorges and Views; Toroko National Park
Well I’m up with the sun and it has to have been one of the worse mattresses I’ve ever slept on, springs poking out. Some pics from Karen of the kids on holidays, and a message from Mum to waken to makes 1st April feel nice start. Here’s hoping today if also a good start. Before leaving I get to put Kelso on the map, literally!!! The ladies are our doing their tai chi type moves beside the station and I pop for my coffee in my second home 7-11. You know how sad you are when you get excited at a cup holder bag for your hot coffee, I’m now totally a local, and I’m back in Washington DC. I go for me ticket but the first Train is not for 40 minutes, google lies!! Ticket bought $22 I can sit and enjoy my coffee. The lady speaks great English and I get the Train times for the next part of the journey too. It’s warm but I’ve packed my cardi as think may not be when in the mountains. As I sit amongst a group of people ?Chinese, I realise It’ll be strange to return to understanding everything said!!!
As everyone leaves I turn and notice someone sleeping here! Ah just like everywhere, he’s unfazed by the noises.
I have time to digest the long whatsapp sent to me last night by the hostel I’m staying at tonight. Jiufen is full of steps and recommend leaving heavy luggage at Ruifang. Although mine is not heavy as such I may just look at dropping it there anyway if it’s easy. I’m undecided on tomorrow, my last night still but tonight looks like Ravello (Amalfi) type views so excited to enjoy them. My host sounds very helpful too which is great! I’m tempted on Tamsui but shall chat with my host tonight I think and see what he recommends!! It’s getting busier outside with plenty of people in hiking gear so guess I’ll follow them too!!
It’s almost 7am and I’m thinking I should head to the platform. My ticket says very little information except the price so looking at the info board I can only see 1 Train about 7am. Platform 1 then! My first local train experience and Mark tells me their announcements sound funny!! The pictures in the way through are stunning so looking forward to it. It’s a good 2-3 minute walk through the tunnel so no being late!! Train there already and I’m guessing this is it!! 3 mins to go! It’s going to Helping! I like that anyway!!! It’s like a tube train! Plenty of room! There’s no announcements, the bell rings, doors shut and we’re off! Chug chug!!! I see what Mark means about the “eh hoo” which sounds like oh oh! On the announcement.
On my way out I go to ask for baggage storage but the girl in front says it’s better to leave at the visitors centre. She’s a volunteer there. She gives me all the info I need. My plan to pop in and out is slightly thwarted by her enthusiasm to get me to do lots of the trails. She will give me a proper map at the centre and show my plan!!! Ah will play by ear. Nice weather will mean I’ll want to take the faster train!
As everyone leaves I turn and notice someone sleeping here! Ah just like everywhere, he’s unfazed by the noises.
I have time to digest the long whatsapp sent to me last night by the hostel I’m staying at tonight. Jiufen is full of steps and recommend leaving heavy luggage at Ruifang. Although mine is not heavy as such I may just look at dropping it there anyway if it’s easy. I’m undecided on tomorrow, my last night still but tonight looks like Ravello (Amalfi) type views so excited to enjoy them. My host sounds very helpful too which is great! I’m tempted on Tamsui but shall chat with my host tonight I think and see what he recommends!! It’s getting busier outside with plenty of people in hiking gear so guess I’ll follow them too!!
It’s almost 7am and I’m thinking I should head to the platform. My ticket says very little information except the price so looking at the info board I can only see 1 Train about 7am. Platform 1 then! My first local train experience and Mark tells me their announcements sound funny!! The pictures in the way through are stunning so looking forward to it. It’s a good 2-3 minute walk through the tunnel so no being late!! Train there already and I’m guessing this is it!! 3 mins to go! It’s going to Helping! I like that anyway!!! It’s like a tube train! Plenty of room! There’s no announcements, the bell rings, doors shut and we’re off! Chug chug!!! I see what Mark means about the “eh hoo” which sounds like oh oh! On the announcement.
On my way out I go to ask for baggage storage but the girl in front says it’s better to leave at the visitors centre. She’s a volunteer there. She gives me all the info I need. My plan to pop in and out is slightly thwarted by her enthusiasm to get me to do lots of the trails. She will give me a proper map at the centre and show my plan!!! Ah will play by ear. Nice weather will mean I’ll want to take the faster train!
The bus pass she recommends to hop on and off for a day is $150 on the local bus ($250 on tourist!). The guy passed me asking for the visitors centre. He looks like a local to my untrained eye but only speaks English. It’s $23 to get to visitors centre and he needs exact money, I have $1 to supplement his $22 as there’s nowhere to get change around here at the moment!! it’s 22 degrees according the bus info and the views are stunning already as we climb up. My stop!
My friend of the day takes me with her into the visitors centre and I sign in my bag, I get belt number 1!! A quick set of directions and a new map and I’m off to explore. First leg is through a tunnel but then opens into a large gorge and lots of stairs!!! I’m the first person up as I’m catching the cobwebs over the trail!! There’s a suspension bridge.... oh let’s give it a try, don’t look down!! Made it and reminds me of the Gattonside one we would cross as kids!! It’s now a trail along the river under the rocks with encouraging signs to keep moving to avoid rocks falling on you!! The water is so clear and the rocks striped beautifully like in Georgia. I come to a nice enter. I’m guessing that’s me but then another sign...... I’ll go a bit further and see......it’s much the same so as there’s a bus in 20 minutes to my next stop I’ll heard back. The trail is getting much busier and as things inevitably do, the walking becomes a old concept and the scooters start to pass me in their numbers. There’s very little room in the path so it’s not great and ruins the fresh smell. I’m glad to be escaping and glad I’ve done it early!! I get back to the next bus stop and wait..... starting to find everything in Chinese again!! A bus arrives but I’ve no idea if it’s correct. The guy beside me think it is so we get on. He’s over on exchange to learn mandarin but is having a few problems as of Chinese origin so assumed to speak the language! Oooops my mistake too. Funnily enough he’s going back to study Physio!!
The gorge is nice enough but I feel like it’s just a gorge and would prefer to be more in the mountains!! I return to the bus stop and we part ways as I have a different day pass to him. I’ll head to the end then maybe straight back. There’s a lunch break in the timetable so long difference in buses. I’ve missed my earlier bus so no rush but no option with the timetable!!! The buses are very unpredictable so I’ll get the next to the end, see the route Mark hopes to cycle, then spend 1 hour there and head back down at 1300. This will give me 30 minutes until my Train which will be a faster one (1.5 hours). It’s all a bit close timewise, so I’m going to take my chance and jump on whichever bus direction comes first!!! For my first thought I have to rely on the bus waiting for me to collect my bag, but that rushes my thanks to my earlier friend, so I think I’ll head down. Decision made as first bus heads down then hill. I think the day pass has not been worth it but hey ho. The Spanish in front have to pay $26 for the trip so for the amount of stops I did I was better on local Pay as you go! Good to know for others! 5 miles covered so it’s a start. Step section next stop!!! First to sort out my over night bag!
Back down and I have 1.5 hours wait so back to arguing with my website uploading (keep crashing but not sure if it’s poor internet conflicting!). I fail so wander up the start of another trail. It’s going to be a long one so I do about 10 minutes and head back. Most is through shrub and dense vegetation. I’ll complete it another day!! I’ve seen the best of the day as the clouds descend again so I go collect my back pack from Irene. She’s wanting to come to do volunteering in Europe (currently works in a school for learning difficulties and earlier explained that the tip of roads etc on Taiwan really restrict these people from getting out and about so school is almost their only escape from home) and I give her my email incase she’s over as she’s been very kind to me. Baggage leaving is free!
I pop in to pick up a post card from the visitors centre, job for later and message the hostel to apologise as I’ll be later than anticipated and await the bus.....
My friend of the day takes me with her into the visitors centre and I sign in my bag, I get belt number 1!! A quick set of directions and a new map and I’m off to explore. First leg is through a tunnel but then opens into a large gorge and lots of stairs!!! I’m the first person up as I’m catching the cobwebs over the trail!! There’s a suspension bridge.... oh let’s give it a try, don’t look down!! Made it and reminds me of the Gattonside one we would cross as kids!! It’s now a trail along the river under the rocks with encouraging signs to keep moving to avoid rocks falling on you!! The water is so clear and the rocks striped beautifully like in Georgia. I come to a nice enter. I’m guessing that’s me but then another sign...... I’ll go a bit further and see......it’s much the same so as there’s a bus in 20 minutes to my next stop I’ll heard back. The trail is getting much busier and as things inevitably do, the walking becomes a old concept and the scooters start to pass me in their numbers. There’s very little room in the path so it’s not great and ruins the fresh smell. I’m glad to be escaping and glad I’ve done it early!! I get back to the next bus stop and wait..... starting to find everything in Chinese again!! A bus arrives but I’ve no idea if it’s correct. The guy beside me think it is so we get on. He’s over on exchange to learn mandarin but is having a few problems as of Chinese origin so assumed to speak the language! Oooops my mistake too. Funnily enough he’s going back to study Physio!!
The gorge is nice enough but I feel like it’s just a gorge and would prefer to be more in the mountains!! I return to the bus stop and we part ways as I have a different day pass to him. I’ll head to the end then maybe straight back. There’s a lunch break in the timetable so long difference in buses. I’ve missed my earlier bus so no rush but no option with the timetable!!! The buses are very unpredictable so I’ll get the next to the end, see the route Mark hopes to cycle, then spend 1 hour there and head back down at 1300. This will give me 30 minutes until my Train which will be a faster one (1.5 hours). It’s all a bit close timewise, so I’m going to take my chance and jump on whichever bus direction comes first!!! For my first thought I have to rely on the bus waiting for me to collect my bag, but that rushes my thanks to my earlier friend, so I think I’ll head down. Decision made as first bus heads down then hill. I think the day pass has not been worth it but hey ho. The Spanish in front have to pay $26 for the trip so for the amount of stops I did I was better on local Pay as you go! Good to know for others! 5 miles covered so it’s a start. Step section next stop!!! First to sort out my over night bag!
Back down and I have 1.5 hours wait so back to arguing with my website uploading (keep crashing but not sure if it’s poor internet conflicting!). I fail so wander up the start of another trail. It’s going to be a long one so I do about 10 minutes and head back. Most is through shrub and dense vegetation. I’ll complete it another day!! I’ve seen the best of the day as the clouds descend again so I go collect my back pack from Irene. She’s wanting to come to do volunteering in Europe (currently works in a school for learning difficulties and earlier explained that the tip of roads etc on Taiwan really restrict these people from getting out and about so school is almost their only escape from home) and I give her my email incase she’s over as she’s been very kind to me. Baggage leaving is free!
I pop in to pick up a post card from the visitors centre, job for later and message the hostel to apologise as I’ll be later than anticipated and await the bus.....
It’s a busy train when i board but very quiet. Most are asleep.
We’re heading Bach to the coast and it’s looking rough. Not long andvtnr dark sand beaches become rocks as we bop in and out of tunnels. There are a few fishing boats out and large area of nets so I’m wondering if I get some mussels, although they’re not looking like that sort of met sadly!! There will be a good fish life there!! The sun is back, although I can’t look inlandward as everyone has closed their blinds so I’m lucky the guy beside me kept his open. Apart from his 2 kids playing a row in front opposite the rest of the train is sleeping!!
I’m on time and head straight to find luggage drop but at $20 per 3 hours it’s not really worth being that lazy!!! So it’s coming up the hills with me!!! It’s warm again and my hostel tonight has views and a terrace so looking forward to that!! Shall pick up a cold drink first if can find one! Get off at the first stop, the police station so I’m watching maps closely!!! It’s the first place to have an array of leaflets in English (only!) so I collect a few bits to look at tonight. Final decisions!!!
The bus stop is 200m or so down town so the pictures I got last night from the hostel help! It’s a steep winding road and it at the front Sri Lanka style without the bling, music and madness!!! Wow. We.’the climbing!!! It’s going to be stunning! There’s some huge temple like hotels built into the landscape on my opposite side. I’m there and there’s no bell so the lady beside guesses I want off and we stop! To my relief tonight is downhill to the hostel!!! Well about 70 steps. Make that 175!!!
The girls at the hostel are lovely and very keen to run me through the area etc but I just want to get off into it!! There’s plenty of trips and it’s far more prepared for backpackers and travellers here. I’m in a dorm with 2 others and worryingly I have a top bunk. I’ll be doing the early start so hopefully won’t annoy them too much. I may put my bags out in the outer part to minimise the noise tomorrow. I have no firm plan but that’s for darkness!!
I head back up the steps and then up another 190 to get to the town main roads. She’s give a map of the town and highlighted the circular route. It’s a town full of food, tea and souvenirs not too exciting!! There’s a significant tourist feel not only by the amount of people with poles and flags but I think as it’s a holiday weekend here too it’s probably worse!
I wander through and hit the views for sunset then it’s into the top street on the map known as the dark street as this was where the poor people lived as there’s no light in the houses due to being built so close together. The Japanese set it up as a gold sourcing in the mid 1930s but ended about 10 years later and once they left and the area changed and now it’s mainly tourism and movie industry that use it. There’s plenty of bits related to this to entertain!!! I wander through the dark street and it’s lined with good old food market shops. I’ve been told the typical local dishes are the taro puff, the red meat dumpling, red as they cook the meat with the left over of the rice wine, and other small taro balls in soup. I try the first and it’s very very sweet, leave 1/2. The second is ok, lots of garlic and coriander with it but the outside is strange gelatinous stuff, I later learn that it’s potato starch, so I also leave that. I’m up for the mixed fruit smoothie but otherwise I’m filled!! I continue to wander then head back down the central laddered street and the crowds are settling in now!!! A few photos and I’m ready to escape!!
Back to the hostel and it’s empty! I’m going to figure out tomorrow I think and get it all booked then early night!! Last day coming up.......
We’re heading Bach to the coast and it’s looking rough. Not long andvtnr dark sand beaches become rocks as we bop in and out of tunnels. There are a few fishing boats out and large area of nets so I’m wondering if I get some mussels, although they’re not looking like that sort of met sadly!! There will be a good fish life there!! The sun is back, although I can’t look inlandward as everyone has closed their blinds so I’m lucky the guy beside me kept his open. Apart from his 2 kids playing a row in front opposite the rest of the train is sleeping!!
I’m on time and head straight to find luggage drop but at $20 per 3 hours it’s not really worth being that lazy!!! So it’s coming up the hills with me!!! It’s warm again and my hostel tonight has views and a terrace so looking forward to that!! Shall pick up a cold drink first if can find one! Get off at the first stop, the police station so I’m watching maps closely!!! It’s the first place to have an array of leaflets in English (only!) so I collect a few bits to look at tonight. Final decisions!!!
The bus stop is 200m or so down town so the pictures I got last night from the hostel help! It’s a steep winding road and it at the front Sri Lanka style without the bling, music and madness!!! Wow. We.’the climbing!!! It’s going to be stunning! There’s some huge temple like hotels built into the landscape on my opposite side. I’m there and there’s no bell so the lady beside guesses I want off and we stop! To my relief tonight is downhill to the hostel!!! Well about 70 steps. Make that 175!!!
The girls at the hostel are lovely and very keen to run me through the area etc but I just want to get off into it!! There’s plenty of trips and it’s far more prepared for backpackers and travellers here. I’m in a dorm with 2 others and worryingly I have a top bunk. I’ll be doing the early start so hopefully won’t annoy them too much. I may put my bags out in the outer part to minimise the noise tomorrow. I have no firm plan but that’s for darkness!!
I head back up the steps and then up another 190 to get to the town main roads. She’s give a map of the town and highlighted the circular route. It’s a town full of food, tea and souvenirs not too exciting!! There’s a significant tourist feel not only by the amount of people with poles and flags but I think as it’s a holiday weekend here too it’s probably worse!
I wander through and hit the views for sunset then it’s into the top street on the map known as the dark street as this was where the poor people lived as there’s no light in the houses due to being built so close together. The Japanese set it up as a gold sourcing in the mid 1930s but ended about 10 years later and once they left and the area changed and now it’s mainly tourism and movie industry that use it. There’s plenty of bits related to this to entertain!!! I wander through the dark street and it’s lined with good old food market shops. I’ve been told the typical local dishes are the taro puff, the red meat dumpling, red as they cook the meat with the left over of the rice wine, and other small taro balls in soup. I try the first and it’s very very sweet, leave 1/2. The second is ok, lots of garlic and coriander with it but the outside is strange gelatinous stuff, I later learn that it’s potato starch, so I also leave that. I’m up for the mixed fruit smoothie but otherwise I’m filled!! I continue to wander then head back down the central laddered street and the crowds are settling in now!!! A few photos and I’m ready to escape!!
Back to the hostel and it’s empty! I’m going to figure out tomorrow I think and get it all booked then early night!! Last day coming up.......
Day 10: Covering the North:
Traditional Taiwanese breakfast is included at 8am. So it’s up and going for that!! It’s an interesting mix, traditional Taiwanese pancake, green bean and mullet sweet porridge soup and an omelette which shall be brought out separately. Wow they like their sugar!! The porridge is very sweet and the pancake also, could do its some local lemon!!! The omelette is a pancake also with fried egg and cabbage inside. There’s a slight soy sauce flavour too. Amy tells me the pancakes contain brown sugar, I’ll work that off on those steps back to bus!!
I’m ready to go and get chatting to another girl just having her breakfast. She introduces herself as TC from Malaysia and is cycling also. She’s asking for information and I try to relay what Mark has been saying but this is silly, just give her his number and she can get the info directly.
We chat for a bit but I’m aware it’s getting hot and I have those steps ahead of me!! The bus leaves about 0915 so best move. I get my deposit back and bid farewell to my hosts. They’ve been lovely. Decision is bid to Keelung (1.25h) then Coast to Tamsui where I’ve booked a hotel for tonight Which has a late check off of midday so that’ll work well for doing stuff in the morning and then heading to the airport for 1630 or so. I arrive to the top of the steps and it’s not been so bad!! Matching symbols I establish what I hope is the bus stop direction and keep fingers crossed o don’t have to dash over the road!! Yeah I’m ok. The bus arrives and it even says “Keelung” on it. Inside there’s WiFi. Bonus!! Mark has responded and fine with random girls getting his number!!!
The bus fills and has standing passengers as we arrive in Keelung. My first impression on Keelung is nice. Port city with space. However the illusion finishes fast. It is a transport hub and similar to all others!!
I’m ready to go and get chatting to another girl just having her breakfast. She introduces herself as TC from Malaysia and is cycling also. She’s asking for information and I try to relay what Mark has been saying but this is silly, just give her his number and she can get the info directly.
We chat for a bit but I’m aware it’s getting hot and I have those steps ahead of me!! The bus leaves about 0915 so best move. I get my deposit back and bid farewell to my hosts. They’ve been lovely. Decision is bid to Keelung (1.25h) then Coast to Tamsui where I’ve booked a hotel for tonight Which has a late check off of midday so that’ll work well for doing stuff in the morning and then heading to the airport for 1630 or so. I arrive to the top of the steps and it’s not been so bad!! Matching symbols I establish what I hope is the bus stop direction and keep fingers crossed o don’t have to dash over the road!! Yeah I’m ok. The bus arrives and it even says “Keelung” on it. Inside there’s WiFi. Bonus!! Mark has responded and fine with random girls getting his number!!!
The bus fills and has standing passengers as we arrive in Keelung. My first impression on Keelung is nice. Port city with space. However the illusion finishes fast. It is a transport hub and similar to all others!!
I go round in circles for my bus stop for the 862 so I ask a guy at the station. Thankfully I’ve photographed my google directions so it has the mandarin for my destination. He shouts a friend and then this non uniformed man takes me into a room beside us and shows me a piece of paper on the wall which says ‘go across the road, to the stop under the yellow building”. Simple!!, back where I was. It’s just a big circle or hub round about. It’s a busy bus stop too and some lady tries to tell me something. I look confused so she repeats twice more. She points at a small bus passing. Maybe I was to get it?? She looks at my information on the phone and nods. Too late, it’s gone!! She tried again a couple of buses later and mentions Taipei. I think she’s trying to tell me to go via Taipei which I know is faster but I miss the coastal parts. It’s already 11am so I’ll see how much i get in today. This takes me directly to my Hotel area so can stay on if getting too late!!! I’m getting despondent at this point. Lots of buses going and coming but there’s no information for the one I want and I daren’t wander off in case miss it but feel like a need to move. Maybe Taipei and out is the best option. It’s now 1120, it’s hot and sunny and I don’t want to be carrying the back pack!!! Back pack is off and I have taken a seat!!! My plan was to go to the geological park and see that but the lack of buses passing worries me that I’ll be stuck there for ages! Complacency over. It’s arrives at 11:25! Ok let’s go!! Oh no it’s sitting on other side of round about and not moving. Ggggrrrrrrr oh here it comes and all the bus stop get up!! Don’t feel so bad now!! Let’s see what to do!!
I’m thinking about how much room I have in my bag once tomorrow’s UK clothes are out!!! Maybe shopping today is best and then can work from there. It’s to be wet on return sadly! Ive hardly seen any of they thankfully here although I think as usual I’ve hit the perfect week as reports of heavy rain here from Thursday!,
I’m going to keep going. Enjoy the views on the way and just get there!! The girls behind are doing the same!
It’s uneventful until a lady gets on beside me with her broken English. She’s again surprised I’m travelling alone. She is also alone ?widowed? And wants to travel to see England. She’s 70 this year she tells me and thinks she is too old. I say no, my Mum is 80 and still travels. I get shown photos of her family etc and she chats lots!! We are at the northern point of Taiwan. Beaches are rocky so not too exciting! Ah here comes google translate. She’s asking if Big Ben is working!! I explain “no Dong”! She’s very apologetic at her lack of English but I try to explain I have 2 words in mandarin only so she is better. I try google translate but it does simple Chinese, not sure which that is!! I’ll leave it I think. More photos and she’s very fixated at being old!!! Her brother in law and sister are in USA she tells me. I have made her feel very happy today she tells me. Again she rechecks I’m not married then she explains her son is 40 and no girlfriend. This is followed with a big grin. She invites me to join her for food but the bus ride has made me a little queasy so I say I’ve eaten and thank her anyway. I just want to get fresh air!!!!!! She’s concerned it’s very hot. As we enter back into the city it’s certainly a new area, lots of high rise flats all looking the same.
I want to get off but today’s friend is insisting on Plenty if goodbyes and due to the crowded bus and the need to swing my backpack on again I stay to the end of the line. Maybe 1km further than I need. It’s easiest to wait to the end to get off by which time she’s headed on. What a sweet person. I’d been tempted earlier to eat my sushi roll I’d got but remembered you can’t eat on the bus...... darn and my stomach probably wouldn’t take it at the moment. Bring on the fresh air!!
Tamsui is a vibrant portal area with a lovely walkway by the sea inlet and plenty of activity. It’s new and souvenirs mad!!! The temperature has hit 31 degrees the info board tells me ai it’s off to the hotel which is a couple of km walk down. I grab an ice cream, mango and green tea and meander on the shore breeze helping and the cloud stopping me being too uncomfortable but yes it’s hot!! Traffic lights are in my favour so no stopping which I’m glad of!! Im there and check in I’m offered free tea, coffee cookies and water. Water by the mug it is!! I’ve to wait 15 minutes til check I’m officially starts but all is good and it’s nice to get the bag off again. I have free cycle rental and so shall make use of that shortly, and a map to help me along!!! I like the hotel... it’s got properly ground coffee and I have a room on the 8th floor (Top!).
I’m going to keep going. Enjoy the views on the way and just get there!! The girls behind are doing the same!
It’s uneventful until a lady gets on beside me with her broken English. She’s again surprised I’m travelling alone. She is also alone ?widowed? And wants to travel to see England. She’s 70 this year she tells me and thinks she is too old. I say no, my Mum is 80 and still travels. I get shown photos of her family etc and she chats lots!! We are at the northern point of Taiwan. Beaches are rocky so not too exciting! Ah here comes google translate. She’s asking if Big Ben is working!! I explain “no Dong”! She’s very apologetic at her lack of English but I try to explain I have 2 words in mandarin only so she is better. I try google translate but it does simple Chinese, not sure which that is!! I’ll leave it I think. More photos and she’s very fixated at being old!!! Her brother in law and sister are in USA she tells me. I have made her feel very happy today she tells me. Again she rechecks I’m not married then she explains her son is 40 and no girlfriend. This is followed with a big grin. She invites me to join her for food but the bus ride has made me a little queasy so I say I’ve eaten and thank her anyway. I just want to get fresh air!!!!!! She’s concerned it’s very hot. As we enter back into the city it’s certainly a new area, lots of high rise flats all looking the same.
I want to get off but today’s friend is insisting on Plenty if goodbyes and due to the crowded bus and the need to swing my backpack on again I stay to the end of the line. Maybe 1km further than I need. It’s easiest to wait to the end to get off by which time she’s headed on. What a sweet person. I’d been tempted earlier to eat my sushi roll I’d got but remembered you can’t eat on the bus...... darn and my stomach probably wouldn’t take it at the moment. Bring on the fresh air!!
Tamsui is a vibrant portal area with a lovely walkway by the sea inlet and plenty of activity. It’s new and souvenirs mad!!! The temperature has hit 31 degrees the info board tells me ai it’s off to the hotel which is a couple of km walk down. I grab an ice cream, mango and green tea and meander on the shore breeze helping and the cloud stopping me being too uncomfortable but yes it’s hot!! Traffic lights are in my favour so no stopping which I’m glad of!! Im there and check in I’m offered free tea, coffee cookies and water. Water by the mug it is!! I’ve to wait 15 minutes til check I’m officially starts but all is good and it’s nice to get the bag off again. I have free cycle rental and so shall make use of that shortly, and a map to help me along!!! I like the hotel... it’s got properly ground coffee and I have a room on the 8th floor (Top!).
I get settled in and then head out. It’s hot but still a nice wind so I’ll wander to the wharf and beach. It’s a perfect and really, quiet enough warm and still. The beach is nothing special and there’s what looks like rock pools made into the rocks which jut far into the sea. I notice the condo block looks like a cruise ship. Ah taking me back to the Caribbean!!! The sun is coming down as I look over to the Bali area of Taipei which in its name also takes me back to my first Asian experience. I’m figuring out tomorrow in my head, sleep from Hong Kong so up early and stay awake first part to there then I’ll be tired enough to sleep from 2am here which is 7pm UK and should be ok!! It’s humid now, the wind has gone but the heat is still sticking around. 24 hours left in Taiwan!! I’m ready to head back, the steam has run out but it’s been perfect!
I head off as sun sets and the bridge / wharf area gets busy with selfie and couples posing for photos and try to hit the beach (again!) from a different angle. I get there but it’s all cornered off. Despite the new builds around it would seem the t is not a sight to promote. So I head to explore the area round my hotel. I’d like a noodle soup as always.
I find a place doing ramen, that’ll do. There’s a few people. As i walk through the four the girl immediately says rice or noodle. I ask noodle and am shown a series of pictures of food. She is joined by the other 2 people behind the counter. I think I’m unusual sight!! She takes my order and they all smile and get to work..... oh is that a good sign. Then another comes out and directs me to the drinks. Juice, tea or coffee! The tables for 2 are at the window, so, probably stupidly I head to one..... well I think I’m just entertainment. Everyone looks as they walk past..... maybe it’s still my chopstick use!! They give up watching after a couple of minutes but I get the attention of various people passing by. Maybe it’s my bad peeling on my right shoulder!!! Ah well I made someone’s day at least today!!!
Right time to go re-pack and find that cold weather gear!!! And get some moisturiser on my right side!! Shows over guys! It’s dark and the pavements glitter. There’s the odd street stall but certainly not a market. I pass a place like a portacabin with loads of people inside and out. I wish I had the confidence to go in as I’m sure it would be amazing food if knew what it was!!
I head off as sun sets and the bridge / wharf area gets busy with selfie and couples posing for photos and try to hit the beach (again!) from a different angle. I get there but it’s all cornered off. Despite the new builds around it would seem the t is not a sight to promote. So I head to explore the area round my hotel. I’d like a noodle soup as always.
I find a place doing ramen, that’ll do. There’s a few people. As i walk through the four the girl immediately says rice or noodle. I ask noodle and am shown a series of pictures of food. She is joined by the other 2 people behind the counter. I think I’m unusual sight!! She takes my order and they all smile and get to work..... oh is that a good sign. Then another comes out and directs me to the drinks. Juice, tea or coffee! The tables for 2 are at the window, so, probably stupidly I head to one..... well I think I’m just entertainment. Everyone looks as they walk past..... maybe it’s still my chopstick use!! They give up watching after a couple of minutes but I get the attention of various people passing by. Maybe it’s my bad peeling on my right shoulder!!! Ah well I made someone’s day at least today!!!
Right time to go re-pack and find that cold weather gear!!! And get some moisturiser on my right side!! Shows over guys! It’s dark and the pavements glitter. There’s the odd street stall but certainly not a market. I pass a place like a portacabin with loads of people inside and out. I wish I had the confidence to go in as I’m sure it would be amazing food if knew what it was!!
Day 10: Its over............. :(
It’s my final day and it’s already 27 degrees at 0930!!! I’m semi sorted on the packing and post cards eventually written (change of plan as the original ones I was to send I can’t write easily on so they’ll do as pressies!!). I have my coffee in it’s holder and off to the fort. I check out at midday so shall complete packing shortly. I’ve given myself 2.5 hours to 2 hours time and so shall make most of the warmth then shop in the shade at midday! I’m the first person in today so bonus and it’s impressive low to ground square building with lots of info about artillery etc. It’s nice and quiet but it is Tuesday!! I’m wandering through the 3D images area showing the guns etc when the lady suddenly announces ‘shooting’ and the image I’m in the room with fires a big cannon!! I jump and this is followed by a bat attack as obviously woken them too. I’m laughing as I leave, the guide is very apologetic but i try to say it’s all ok!!! Arrrgggjh snake warning!!! You get to climb all over it but guess it’s pretty resilient!! There’s lots of info..... headed in English followed by mandarin text!! Ah the bus tours arrive!! The steps are very close together and I find them always. Oh well me step count will be bigger!! I meet a couple doing their morning exercise. They stop to ask where I’m from and he tells me they spent 10 years in England in London. He also informs me that the golf club here is the first in Taiwan and it’s built on an old Japanese’s army camp. There’s also a mass grave on one corner to all the people that died in the Franco war I think he said in the 1880s. The martyrs shrine is lovely in the sun but the banging of the building works beside soils the ambience!! Time to wander back. I’ve booked the free bus to the old street for midday so it’s already 1045!
By the time I’ve picked up sweeties etc for work I am back at 1130 and the pack organisation begins, one bag for airport change into British clothes that I arrived in 2 weeks ago, and the other with everything else!! I’ve not worn 1 dress and 1 pair of sandals but they were back up for a night out if cooler. Weather from home is cold and wet reportedly (pictures of sleet and snow from mum yesterday!). The bus / minivan is waiting to take me to old street. I’ll do some sun shopping and get bits for everyone if possible then tube and train back to airport for 5pm. The old street is busy!! I top up my EasyCard and hope it’ll do me to the airport. I thought it was about 260 but not easy to tell! I can cash in the left over balance if I wish but the card is non refundable so it’ll do another trip or someone else!!
The sit in the sun is lovely to enjoy last of it for a while!! I’ll give myself until 2pm then head off. I should be able to check in about 4, then chill at the airport I hope and grab the last of the warmth!!! The what is now, normal afternoon haze has set in and I’m hoping Mark is not struggling too much in this heat climbing up the ‘king of the mountains’ road!
It’s over. I need to get on this tube I know the walk at the main station is a long one so no point rushing it! 18 stations to there! It’s cool here at least and free WiFi means i hear from Mark. He’s at a 7-11 and managed 1000m climb in last 2 hours so far and is 1/2 way over so doing really well. He’s hoping to get another 1000m in today and leave 700 for tomorrow then down through the gorge before it’s too wet! 35 mins later and I’m back at main station, 1 week on from my last visit!! A wander through and at 3pm I’m on the train to the airport. It’s overcast haze is settling over the city. I have time to reflect on the past 10 days experience!
The sit in the sun is lovely to enjoy last of it for a while!! I’ll give myself until 2pm then head off. I should be able to check in about 4, then chill at the airport I hope and grab the last of the warmth!!! The what is now, normal afternoon haze has set in and I’m hoping Mark is not struggling too much in this heat climbing up the ‘king of the mountains’ road!
It’s over. I need to get on this tube I know the walk at the main station is a long one so no point rushing it! 18 stations to there! It’s cool here at least and free WiFi means i hear from Mark. He’s at a 7-11 and managed 1000m climb in last 2 hours so far and is 1/2 way over so doing really well. He’s hoping to get another 1000m in today and leave 700 for tomorrow then down through the gorge before it’s too wet! 35 mins later and I’m back at main station, 1 week on from my last visit!! A wander through and at 3pm I’m on the train to the airport. It’s overcast haze is settling over the city. I have time to reflect on the past 10 days experience!
Reflection:
My main points:
- Society of pride and respectfulness Breast feeding as rooms everywhere
- Plastic bags and lots of plastic use!!!!
- Cleanliness and no public eating as you go!!
- Orderly, organised!! No rush!
- No smoking in comparison to Georgia!!
- Fried everything!!!
- Tea everywhere. You have to like tea!!!
- Free water and loos as standard. The water more often hot and warm than cold. Looks almost always include an upright one especially if there a disabled one.
- Very safe even commented on by people living here. Shops have things sitting out in the street out of vision of shop keeper but there’s no anticipation of theft and you are not harassed to buy, or maybe it’s their lack of English!!
- I wonder how it will change in the future. Mark and I feel to go the way of South Idkand NZ would make sense and I worry it becomes like Lombok reportedly has, a second party Indonesian island. My temptation to return there is guarded by the wish nor to spoil my memories. Only time will tell and I’m sure in 10years much will have changed as the younger freer generation come through, speaking English with ease. There’s certainly as Mark commented, a child like innocence to the people and their island even in the day to day things (hello kitty!! is rife!)
- Could do with learning mandarin!!!
- What’s a weekend!?!? There seems to be very little difference between hours worked Monday to Sunday and opening hours etc
Returnability:
7/10: plenty more to do
Would benefit from more company to enjoy it as not much option of meeting people during trips
Has big potential to grow into an amazing country for tourists
7/10: plenty more to do
Would benefit from more company to enjoy it as not much option of meeting people during trips
Has big potential to grow into an amazing country for tourists