So off again.... Georgia this time. Little anxious as not going to be able to easily read the lettering, speak much language or have much time to figure out timetables. I’m told it’s the Switzerland of the Soviet Union, Which is a good start! I’ve sort of got a plan but an inability to confirm it means my potential night Train tomorrow to Batumi i require to suss out on arrival into Tbilisi.
However flight first to Kutaisi then (hopefully) night bus to Tbilisi with arrival time of 0600. Then it’s options: try to go 1h south to monastery or to go north to muskheta. First I’m guessing I need to check my train and get ticket if running so thinking that’ll be stop 1 in the morning! Great start though, no queue at airport and straight through security, maybe it’s normal for a Thursday!!
So I thought I did well on travels. The guy behind me is chatting with some girls and they are experts! Talking about ‘flights4free’ website and £125 to San Fran from Edinburgh next month. Sounds like something I have to check out when get signal again!!
Arrival straight forward, 0240, 13 degrees and little foggy but with smooth run through passport etc and into a small but buzzing area with ticket counters, exchange, bank machines and a coffee shop the start is good. Bank machines liked my card so great start, 250GEL taken out (1:3) so May do most of trip..... chat with couple of lads also heading to Tbilisi, they’re returning here for 3 days before heading to Kazygstan to teach English. Rave about the country so getting excited now. I get the ticket (20GEL) for Tbilisi from the slightly chaotic counter, no queue of sorts, just shout loudest!!
It’s 3.30am and I’m on the bus, but it’s not in a rush to go..... ETA ? 0730 so may catch sight of the mountains as sun rises, I’m hoping!! The bus is full however so guess the not being quiet on a Thursday is wrong!!! WiFi appears not to be working currently sadly and no power points so hopefully my spare batteries are not finished. Decided not to take the free SIM card at the airport, not sure I’d use it too much. 0345 and we’re off, I’m
Told by a few guys that there’s no stops (and no loo) so very glad I still have some grapes and pineapple slices in my bag but not overindulged in the watery stuff!!
Wow I’m noticing cigarette smoke..... been a while since I smell the stale stuff..... oh best get used to it😬
Stupid me has not switched off my alarm so I am woken at 0530. We stop not long after for a toilet / cig break at Gori, WiFi access so managed to send a message home!! Its a quick 5 minute stop and we’re off……. ooops, most forget a passenger, and we’re off again. The countryside is starting to become visible and as sun rises I can see we are surrounded by hills in the background, similar size to Eildons, and massive expanses of cultivated fields. There was no forecast of rain but the black cloud in front worries me!! I notice also the number of neon crosses on the hills, quite a modern look for a church!f
Arrival is a bit of a let down!! Roadside stop and no announcements, everyone sat until they saw their luggage being removed!!
I take off positively.... just need to find the station, get Train ticket and decide on my day. It’s 0725 and nothing is open...... a coffee and loo would be nice, but no where to be found!! So off I wander.
I notice the people sweeping the road, mainly women, with herb like brooms. The sun is shining and it’s looking like I didn’t need to fear the black clouds, they’re so behind me!!
The meander to the station is rather more complex than expected, but on the way the modern statues are amazing to see. They are quirky and variable.
However flight first to Kutaisi then (hopefully) night bus to Tbilisi with arrival time of 0600. Then it’s options: try to go 1h south to monastery or to go north to muskheta. First I’m guessing I need to check my train and get ticket if running so thinking that’ll be stop 1 in the morning! Great start though, no queue at airport and straight through security, maybe it’s normal for a Thursday!!
So I thought I did well on travels. The guy behind me is chatting with some girls and they are experts! Talking about ‘flights4free’ website and £125 to San Fran from Edinburgh next month. Sounds like something I have to check out when get signal again!!
Arrival straight forward, 0240, 13 degrees and little foggy but with smooth run through passport etc and into a small but buzzing area with ticket counters, exchange, bank machines and a coffee shop the start is good. Bank machines liked my card so great start, 250GEL taken out (1:3) so May do most of trip..... chat with couple of lads also heading to Tbilisi, they’re returning here for 3 days before heading to Kazygstan to teach English. Rave about the country so getting excited now. I get the ticket (20GEL) for Tbilisi from the slightly chaotic counter, no queue of sorts, just shout loudest!!
It’s 3.30am and I’m on the bus, but it’s not in a rush to go..... ETA ? 0730 so may catch sight of the mountains as sun rises, I’m hoping!! The bus is full however so guess the not being quiet on a Thursday is wrong!!! WiFi appears not to be working currently sadly and no power points so hopefully my spare batteries are not finished. Decided not to take the free SIM card at the airport, not sure I’d use it too much. 0345 and we’re off, I’m
Told by a few guys that there’s no stops (and no loo) so very glad I still have some grapes and pineapple slices in my bag but not overindulged in the watery stuff!!
Wow I’m noticing cigarette smoke..... been a while since I smell the stale stuff..... oh best get used to it😬
Stupid me has not switched off my alarm so I am woken at 0530. We stop not long after for a toilet / cig break at Gori, WiFi access so managed to send a message home!! Its a quick 5 minute stop and we’re off……. ooops, most forget a passenger, and we’re off again. The countryside is starting to become visible and as sun rises I can see we are surrounded by hills in the background, similar size to Eildons, and massive expanses of cultivated fields. There was no forecast of rain but the black cloud in front worries me!! I notice also the number of neon crosses on the hills, quite a modern look for a church!f
Arrival is a bit of a let down!! Roadside stop and no announcements, everyone sat until they saw their luggage being removed!!
I take off positively.... just need to find the station, get Train ticket and decide on my day. It’s 0725 and nothing is open...... a coffee and loo would be nice, but no where to be found!! So off I wander.
I notice the people sweeping the road, mainly women, with herb like brooms. The sun is shining and it’s looking like I didn’t need to fear the black clouds, they’re so behind me!!
The meander to the station is rather more complex than expected, but on the way the modern statues are amazing to see. They are quirky and variable.
The streets are getting busier, and lots of people are confused I feel by this female with backpack wandering this early. I am guessing the rest of the bus people have headed to hotels... I feel very like the only stranger and I don't even know how to say "good morning!"
I get lost over and over again. I can find the station, and i cross the rails a few times, in different locations, however I can not seem to find the ticket area / entrance............. I can't read the signs and none have pictures of trains or rails to aid me!!!
A big market area is getting fully setup where i thought the station was, and I really could do with that loo stop!!!! The area feels a little uncomfortable to be in, although there is no direct threatening aspect, I just feel very obvious and lost!!!
Eventually the entrance is visible on the opposite that I expected..... I went a long way for a short cut!!!! Anyway, ticket purchase is simple and the ladies very helpful..... Oh and theres a cafe upstairs........ LOOOOOOOO :D
Now I have 15 hours to kill........ lets go find some things to do. I had planned to head up to Mtskheta and see the monastery there, but i saw it on the way in and wasn't too excited to head there, but I would need to go back to town and find how to do these minibuses........ I'm guessing from the square I was dropped off at............ oh its all a bit confusing!!!! Decisions..... but at least I have coffee.............
I wander back more confidently towards the square, and can feel the hustle and bustle of life starting up. I decide to suss out the area, and head to the old town to see this before it gets too busy.......... its 0930. I notice a sign on the information booth (which opens at 10am I think........ or guess), the sign is showing how to read and pronounce Georgian words.......... best to keep a hold of this and practice....... I go under the underpass tot he other side of the road. Theres lots of lovely sounding places to eat later......... and I walk round the corner.......towards the old town.
I pass a travel agent offering trips to various locations, I have a full day unplanned, and theres a tour to the monastery in the south leaving in 3 minutes.... 30€........ Oh go on then!!!!
I get lost over and over again. I can find the station, and i cross the rails a few times, in different locations, however I can not seem to find the ticket area / entrance............. I can't read the signs and none have pictures of trains or rails to aid me!!!
A big market area is getting fully setup where i thought the station was, and I really could do with that loo stop!!!! The area feels a little uncomfortable to be in, although there is no direct threatening aspect, I just feel very obvious and lost!!!
Eventually the entrance is visible on the opposite that I expected..... I went a long way for a short cut!!!! Anyway, ticket purchase is simple and the ladies very helpful..... Oh and theres a cafe upstairs........ LOOOOOOOO :D
Now I have 15 hours to kill........ lets go find some things to do. I had planned to head up to Mtskheta and see the monastery there, but i saw it on the way in and wasn't too excited to head there, but I would need to go back to town and find how to do these minibuses........ I'm guessing from the square I was dropped off at............ oh its all a bit confusing!!!! Decisions..... but at least I have coffee.............
I wander back more confidently towards the square, and can feel the hustle and bustle of life starting up. I decide to suss out the area, and head to the old town to see this before it gets too busy.......... its 0930. I notice a sign on the information booth (which opens at 10am I think........ or guess), the sign is showing how to read and pronounce Georgian words.......... best to keep a hold of this and practice....... I go under the underpass tot he other side of the road. Theres lots of lovely sounding places to eat later......... and I walk round the corner.......towards the old town.
I pass a travel agent offering trips to various locations, I have a full day unplanned, and theres a tour to the monastery in the south leaving in 3 minutes.... 30€........ Oh go on then!!!!
The minibus has a lithuanian family (Mum, Dad and older son), an Italian guy takes his place in the front seat, no offers to others, and a Danish couple, neither of which are very chatty, so I lead the questions....... I have a sitting information duck!!!
We leave Tbilisi and on the way out we have the statue of the state pointed out. It’s a woman with a glass in her left hand and a sword in the left; the glass signifies welcoming visitors and the sword is to fend off the enemy.
He tells us that there are lots of right hand drive cars and there’s lots of issues with them, mainly from Japan with the government trying to stop them coming in and tax them higher. It’s not the dangerous side of them he’s meaning so it’s just a way of minimising importing cars. The lady beside me asks about cycling. It’s not very big here at the moment but they are trying to develop it slowly with cycle paths. However as the roads are so old it’s not easy to adapt them as the buildings are built onto the side of them. He admits that the country is only starting to get to grips with tourism and it’s not really kicked off yet. We stop for fuel. It’s diesel 2.07 GEL = 66p per liter. Further on we pass the largest bazar for wholesale. It’s huge load of temporary covered looking hits although as they get snow here I assume they’re more substantial than look like from the edge of the road while whizzing past! We carry on through less and less forgiving landscape with very little signs of agriculture. The odd lot of cattle and maize fields, which since discussing with Dad after Slovenia, I now know is for fodder. It’s quiet in the car. I’m behind the driver and he struggled to hear me before so despite wanting to chat I feel it’s not possible. Me Italy in the front has forgotten his camera and left it in the shop so a stop to make a call and off we go!
After about 45 minutes we turn off the main highway we hit the local farm roads towards Azerbaijan.... they make the ‘middle road’ at Home seem like a motorway!
45 minutes and many many bumps later we arrive at the destination. As we get out the car he asks our nationalities. We have 3 Lithuanians (?father, mother, son in his 20s), 2 Danish (? Couple but he looks younger so initially i thought mother and son.... whoops) and an Italian guy who seems to keep disappearing and doesn’t really understand English!! He reminds me of Roberto Benigni in ‘A Beautiful Life’.
Toilet stop (0.5GEL) we learnt that David Gareja was a 6th Century disciple who prayed in Tbilisi and water appeared. He moved to this monastery and did the same finding water appearing not long after. He stayed in here for some time and painted frescos in the caves around and is buried here. We wander round the church area at the bottom then it’s ready for the climb. We can see a big section is being renovated and about 6 monks still live here. The climb sees the Danish girl not start and it’s going to be an interesting challenge. I’ve not got my better shoes on so no idea how these flats will get on..... rocks and steep paths upwards Italian guy runs off, I’m next with the guide and the Danish guy right up with us. We stop regularly for the excuse to ensure the Lithuanians are with us still and pretend not to need to catch our breath.
At the top it’s Azerbaijan and more desert like scenery. The phone changes to Az cell coverage and the others have welcome notices on their phones, Vodafone has given up sending I think!! We take off along the Az side and start to investigate the amazing caves. They’ve recently been numbered and our guide has the info about them. Lots of frescos that have been damaged he tells us by the Tartar monks and then further damage in the 1920 earthquake. I notice that it appears that they have been covered over then the covering removed but he’s not sure. It’s a decent wander around and back down, thankfully a different route. There’s a French group initially behind us but thankfully they are slow (and noisy)!! I climb up and down the rocks getting into the caves while most of the group just stand on the bottom route. Myself and the Lithuanian Dad have non climbing shoes but we’re up every rock face. The guide is very kind and always offers to help me down, but I’m fine jumping off the rocks. Just don’t over jump or it’s a hell of a downhill slide!! I get a chance to chat to the guide. He’s very passionate about Georgia and feels it’s really regained its identity since USSR days. It’s always been a country and kept its respect even during the soviet era. He’s now abandoned the others and there just myself the Danish guy and him. We find the place where David had sprung water. It’s locked up and our guide is not sure why. Maybe once they start charging for the place they’ll open it! 2 hours later and we are back at the car. On the way back I take more notice of the deshevelled farms and the tiny houses and caravans on them. They do have large sheds though. There’s a couple of tractors but most farming I see are horses working cattle. Our driver asks if want lunch and danish couple answer for us all. There’s certainly tension there at the moment but I guess 2 hours sitting around with nothing to do is not great and there’s no cave or places to wander! I ask him if I can charge phone in his cig charger and that’s no problem. Yeah I have battery incase nothing on the train.
We leave Tbilisi and on the way out we have the statue of the state pointed out. It’s a woman with a glass in her left hand and a sword in the left; the glass signifies welcoming visitors and the sword is to fend off the enemy.
He tells us that there are lots of right hand drive cars and there’s lots of issues with them, mainly from Japan with the government trying to stop them coming in and tax them higher. It’s not the dangerous side of them he’s meaning so it’s just a way of minimising importing cars. The lady beside me asks about cycling. It’s not very big here at the moment but they are trying to develop it slowly with cycle paths. However as the roads are so old it’s not easy to adapt them as the buildings are built onto the side of them. He admits that the country is only starting to get to grips with tourism and it’s not really kicked off yet. We stop for fuel. It’s diesel 2.07 GEL = 66p per liter. Further on we pass the largest bazar for wholesale. It’s huge load of temporary covered looking hits although as they get snow here I assume they’re more substantial than look like from the edge of the road while whizzing past! We carry on through less and less forgiving landscape with very little signs of agriculture. The odd lot of cattle and maize fields, which since discussing with Dad after Slovenia, I now know is for fodder. It’s quiet in the car. I’m behind the driver and he struggled to hear me before so despite wanting to chat I feel it’s not possible. Me Italy in the front has forgotten his camera and left it in the shop so a stop to make a call and off we go!
After about 45 minutes we turn off the main highway we hit the local farm roads towards Azerbaijan.... they make the ‘middle road’ at Home seem like a motorway!
45 minutes and many many bumps later we arrive at the destination. As we get out the car he asks our nationalities. We have 3 Lithuanians (?father, mother, son in his 20s), 2 Danish (? Couple but he looks younger so initially i thought mother and son.... whoops) and an Italian guy who seems to keep disappearing and doesn’t really understand English!! He reminds me of Roberto Benigni in ‘A Beautiful Life’.
Toilet stop (0.5GEL) we learnt that David Gareja was a 6th Century disciple who prayed in Tbilisi and water appeared. He moved to this monastery and did the same finding water appearing not long after. He stayed in here for some time and painted frescos in the caves around and is buried here. We wander round the church area at the bottom then it’s ready for the climb. We can see a big section is being renovated and about 6 monks still live here. The climb sees the Danish girl not start and it’s going to be an interesting challenge. I’ve not got my better shoes on so no idea how these flats will get on..... rocks and steep paths upwards Italian guy runs off, I’m next with the guide and the Danish guy right up with us. We stop regularly for the excuse to ensure the Lithuanians are with us still and pretend not to need to catch our breath.
At the top it’s Azerbaijan and more desert like scenery. The phone changes to Az cell coverage and the others have welcome notices on their phones, Vodafone has given up sending I think!! We take off along the Az side and start to investigate the amazing caves. They’ve recently been numbered and our guide has the info about them. Lots of frescos that have been damaged he tells us by the Tartar monks and then further damage in the 1920 earthquake. I notice that it appears that they have been covered over then the covering removed but he’s not sure. It’s a decent wander around and back down, thankfully a different route. There’s a French group initially behind us but thankfully they are slow (and noisy)!! I climb up and down the rocks getting into the caves while most of the group just stand on the bottom route. Myself and the Lithuanian Dad have non climbing shoes but we’re up every rock face. The guide is very kind and always offers to help me down, but I’m fine jumping off the rocks. Just don’t over jump or it’s a hell of a downhill slide!! I get a chance to chat to the guide. He’s very passionate about Georgia and feels it’s really regained its identity since USSR days. It’s always been a country and kept its respect even during the soviet era. He’s now abandoned the others and there just myself the Danish guy and him. We find the place where David had sprung water. It’s locked up and our guide is not sure why. Maybe once they start charging for the place they’ll open it! 2 hours later and we are back at the car. On the way back I take more notice of the deshevelled farms and the tiny houses and caravans on them. They do have large sheds though. There’s a couple of tractors but most farming I see are horses working cattle. Our driver asks if want lunch and danish couple answer for us all. There’s certainly tension there at the moment but I guess 2 hours sitting around with nothing to do is not great and there’s no cave or places to wander! I ask him if I can charge phone in his cig charger and that’s no problem. Yeah I have battery incase nothing on the train.
David Gareja Monastery
The Danish couple agree we can visit the winery. Yeah!! It’s a fast tour with a big group into a large shed with 40+ huge casks of wine. The guy has some plastic cups and is pouring tasters. He notices me and I seem to get a double shot!! He’s asking me lots of questions and starting at me as I taste it. We get to try a bubbles, dry white, semi dry white and dry red and another red. The final one has a very subtle flavour and is lovely. He chats as we head back to the main building to buy wine...... he suggests a wine for me and I try to buy a couple of small ones but they don’t have hand luggage size except in brandy and vodka. The vodka is not a flicker I would buy so I stick with a small brandy. He’s gone now, been sent to fill 5 litre plastic bottles with wine, so I head to purchase and as he earlier tried to say, you get a feee present and you do. A 50cl bottle of red. I can’t turn it down despite trying so ironically I have a tiny bottle and a large one. Everyone else is hanging around the car and I felt guilty as last one out until I realise the driver is also buying something so I head to pick up some food and get my first kachapuri with cheese. The French ladies are trying to figure out what it is. I explain it’s cheese and we discuss that it’s not "puree" as in French. They’d already ordered but as I left they were discussing trying one. For all of £1 why not. t’s a quick trip back and I need to clear all that wine so I’m on the hunt for a place with....... a loo. I notice a place selling Ajarian, bread with an egg in it. I’m tempted as I’ve been told they’re amazing. I head to the loo and wait with excitement. I’ve ordered a small by notice there’s 4 sizes so shouldn’t be too big. Well how wrong was I. It was huge when it arrived! £2.30! Wow. Sadly I’m disappointed. It’s very very salty andi struggle to enjoy it. I leave the crust it’s all to much. I’m glad I’ve tried it but I’ll not rush back! As I wander through town I notice that I’m still getting stared at!! I make the most of the dimming light and head around the old town. I notice a postcard to buy but on the back it’s got only space for the address so I don’t get it. There will be more... but the picture is of houses on a cliff edge. I need to find this so head in a rough direction along the river where I’d not been this morning. Found it! I’ve wandered down a lovely cosy wee street full of bars and shisha with low sofa seating so I decide to wander back that way. Bev wants a fridge magnet so going looking for that but they’re all tatty and I don’t want them, more postcards with not much space to write.
Coffee was needed as I’m flagging and of course only polite to try a local white, rather nice it was too. As I walked in I must have stood out like a foreigner as the girl immediately as she sees me calls another guy to serve me! I catch up on the world and check in with Home as a very large glass of wine arrives (all 10GEL = £3)!! There’s a guy at the table opposite and a couple at another table. Not long after I notice he’s doodling and then the girl goes and he’s called over to the table.... I’m guessing it’s some sort of interview! Mug walk into a bar where I’m being surrounded on street, lovely guy:Yuri wants to study medicine. Sister works here and he’s just hanging out and practicing English / trying to teach the impossible Georgian to me!! So he’s disappeared to get his uncle for some reason so I think it’s time to move on! I’ve left my email incase he decides to ask for help on medical training. He’s broken up 1.5 hours of waiting. I head down a bustling street and decide to stop for coffee... and WiFi! Need to check in with home etc. So I wander towards the station, passing the bridge of peace and noticing it’s got lights on I head to investigate as anyone would with time to spare. It’s a lovely display of pride, the Georgian flag over the expanse flashing slowly on and off. Couple of selfies and on the street again. I strangely feel safer tonight than o did this morning which is not what I expected. I’m looking for one last stop to tide me over. I’m attracted by the fruit hanging up and ask for a couple of the flat fruit circles that resemble a place mat!! Kiwi and apricot. Think I’ve just found my pressie for all!! Maybe I’ll not try it first!! Haha. At least it’s light. I find Bev’s magnet also so tick that one..... Wandering back down to the old walls where I started this morning, there’s life and they look stunning garnished with red and green lights. I am starting to really see this a night City! Oh well dilly and dallying is only going to last so long so it’s time to head to tube and off to station. Feeling confident on the process I head to the station in liberty square and out to the station. It’s buzzing with life of people waiting. 2 expected trains and mine leaving in 1.5 hours. Time to do picture sorting and catch up on this!! I’m feeling tired too!! We’re called 20 mins before depart and through a heavy door and there the train is waiting. A lady is selling snacks for the trip and it’s a fight to get on board. Once on I have a window seat in a row of 3, and a mains plug so time for a charge! Bonus there’s WiFi considering I can’t get to London for the price of this ticket!! Bonus, James has sent a message correctly guessing my previous photo of the flags. Clever boy that one!!! It’s only got 4 carriages and seems nice and new. I can see me not sleeping as it’s reasonable time in other countries still!! It’s a 5.5 hour journey back via Gori and Kutaisi so I’m doubling back all the trip but I think it’ll be worth it. Oh the knees are starting to ache!! Hahaha!! |
Tbilisi
Day 2: To the Coast
Well I manage to sleep reasonably well only women twice before 0530 so feel quite refreshed! The wine and 32000 steps probably helped! I try to go to the toilet with 30 mins left of the journey but they’re not in use, unsure if they have been at all. However I get a nosey into 1st class and it’s bigger seats but that’s about it that I can see. I am fortunate I Note that I have the only table and this helps as the girl in the isle seat is sleeping and I had to crawl under the table to get out and back in!! Overall (outwith the recent toilet situation) second class is very similar to uk trains.
Arrival is into the middle of an open station for following the locals is best cover for no English signs obvious. Head straight to loo, change, wash teeth etc in a nice clean toilet block, little wierd as it’s outdoors and everyone stares in on you at the sink!! Coffee in hand I regather my plans. Tourist info is open, so I’ll check on Kutaisi transport. Sun is due up shortly so I’m thinking 5-6 hours to wander the town will be enough and head north. Forecast still heavy rain tomorrow so want to see Kut too today. Sleep in tomorrow back to uk time!! I’ve declined the selection of breaded options for breakfast at present!!
She’s very helpful and I can get a bus from central Batumi so no excuse. Little Taxi hassle and I’m off on foot. Immediately I feel comfortable. Wide streets, Black Sea on my right and city in front almost resembling a Dubai type skyline in the neon lights! The sun is just coming up on my left and again I can see I’m surrounded otherwise by hills / mountains. There’s no bikes in the cycle path and overall very few motor cycles about which I also noted yesterday. Infact I’m not sure I’ve seen or heard one as yet! Eyes peeled! Sadly it’s not a lovely soft sandy beach here but a large pebbles one so for now Bulgaria wins!! And just like that the place is fully naturally lit and I’m only 12 minutes from leaving the airport in darkness! Suddenly I recall in carrying 2.5 litres of liquid, maybe I’m not tired!! The water and wine I forgot about!! Slight holdup as a freight train enters the docks and we can’t cross the tracks!! No barrier etc, but it’s obviously there, so no need for overkill!! Really must ask why horns beep so much, initially I thought they were taxis but not!
Make it to the old town and find a restaurant open so time to read up on options. Ive seen information that there maybe a bus about 11am so I’m giving myself 4 hours wandering after food and then head for bus. It’s only 3 miles to the end so should manage it. Also it’s Saturday.... aka shopping day which I want to avoid!! I ask for a lemonade and the girl suggests something so I agree. I’m not sure when she shows me the bottle saying it’s wheAt. I pour and bright green comes out so I’m expecting minty taste ( not that the picture looked like mint) thankfully it’s a subtle flavour and perfect as not too sweet. On studying the label I notice it’s tarragon. My food arrives, it’s not small: lunch sorted!! Packing 1/2 in a plastic bag I consume the other half just before someone starts smoking in the booth in front of me. Time to move after top change and the good old loo stop!! It’s warming up to a hot one
Arrival is into the middle of an open station for following the locals is best cover for no English signs obvious. Head straight to loo, change, wash teeth etc in a nice clean toilet block, little wierd as it’s outdoors and everyone stares in on you at the sink!! Coffee in hand I regather my plans. Tourist info is open, so I’ll check on Kutaisi transport. Sun is due up shortly so I’m thinking 5-6 hours to wander the town will be enough and head north. Forecast still heavy rain tomorrow so want to see Kut too today. Sleep in tomorrow back to uk time!! I’ve declined the selection of breaded options for breakfast at present!!
She’s very helpful and I can get a bus from central Batumi so no excuse. Little Taxi hassle and I’m off on foot. Immediately I feel comfortable. Wide streets, Black Sea on my right and city in front almost resembling a Dubai type skyline in the neon lights! The sun is just coming up on my left and again I can see I’m surrounded otherwise by hills / mountains. There’s no bikes in the cycle path and overall very few motor cycles about which I also noted yesterday. Infact I’m not sure I’ve seen or heard one as yet! Eyes peeled! Sadly it’s not a lovely soft sandy beach here but a large pebbles one so for now Bulgaria wins!! And just like that the place is fully naturally lit and I’m only 12 minutes from leaving the airport in darkness! Suddenly I recall in carrying 2.5 litres of liquid, maybe I’m not tired!! The water and wine I forgot about!! Slight holdup as a freight train enters the docks and we can’t cross the tracks!! No barrier etc, but it’s obviously there, so no need for overkill!! Really must ask why horns beep so much, initially I thought they were taxis but not!
Make it to the old town and find a restaurant open so time to read up on options. Ive seen information that there maybe a bus about 11am so I’m giving myself 4 hours wandering after food and then head for bus. It’s only 3 miles to the end so should manage it. Also it’s Saturday.... aka shopping day which I want to avoid!! I ask for a lemonade and the girl suggests something so I agree. I’m not sure when she shows me the bottle saying it’s wheAt. I pour and bright green comes out so I’m expecting minty taste ( not that the picture looked like mint) thankfully it’s a subtle flavour and perfect as not too sweet. On studying the label I notice it’s tarragon. My food arrives, it’s not small: lunch sorted!! Packing 1/2 in a plastic bag I consume the other half just before someone starts smoking in the booth in front of me. Time to move after top change and the good old loo stop!! It’s warming up to a hot one
Batumi
😃
Heading off I see a moped..... on the cycle lane and going similar speed to my walking pace!!! He looks determined though!! Lots of runners for a Saturday morning around the park area it’s all very relaxed!! Some interesting poses and exercises being done but it’s all suitable in today’s weather! I’ve stripped off the outer layers now and into the no tights and t-shirt. It’s lovely temperature.
Its obviously quite a party beach area in season, currently it’s all being packed up by looks of it. It’s not a beach I’d rush back to but sure the party would be amazing with cheap vodka and wine all locally produced! Turning off into a lovely boulevard Which is being winterfied, and I’m disappointed I didn’t see the boys in their musical instrument lights lit up. As I make my way to medusa statue, i start to feel the beauty of the renovated old town although warm sun obviously does help! Its all very gold!! Onward wander it is a lovely old city. The only dislike are all the dogs running around, some with ear tags (assumed owned) but many without. They’re not aggressive but are little too inquisitive, although I could be fully to blame as my breakfast is still in my bag!!
Heading off I see a moped..... on the cycle lane and going similar speed to my walking pace!!! He looks determined though!! Lots of runners for a Saturday morning around the park area it’s all very relaxed!! Some interesting poses and exercises being done but it’s all suitable in today’s weather! I’ve stripped off the outer layers now and into the no tights and t-shirt. It’s lovely temperature.
Its obviously quite a party beach area in season, currently it’s all being packed up by looks of it. It’s not a beach I’d rush back to but sure the party would be amazing with cheap vodka and wine all locally produced! Turning off into a lovely boulevard Which is being winterfied, and I’m disappointed I didn’t see the boys in their musical instrument lights lit up. As I make my way to medusa statue, i start to feel the beauty of the renovated old town although warm sun obviously does help! Its all very gold!! Onward wander it is a lovely old city. The only dislike are all the dogs running around, some with ear tags (assumed owned) but many without. They’re not aggressive but are little too inquisitive, although I could be fully to blame as my breakfast is still in my bag!!
The trip
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I’m unlikely to go swimming and with the backpack adding up on weight I decide to try to make my way towards Kutaisi (Koot-eye-ss) and find Tbilisi square. I’m told I can get a marshrutka there for about 15GEL. I’m not sure how this works and not really in the mood to barter. Initially I turn down the offer, but having not seen any signs for Kut, I go back to the initial offer and hope in with 3 local women. We need 2 more to leave for Tbilisi I believe but there’s no one around.... could be a bit of a wait!! It’s a slick operation but no ideas how it works!!! But I have a lift for 20GEL and fighting over 5GEL (1.20p) seems silly! Another couple arrive so hopefully we’re on our way! Oh no one of the 3 is not coming and everyone appears to be confused!! Doors firmly shut!! We’re off!! 1023 with estimated 2.5 hours the internet says. Maybe another upright snooze!! Im on my first marshrutka trip!! We turn the corner passing my breakfast spot and notice buses with Kut on them! Typical!! Ah well never mind! I feel like I’m in a mini Sri Lanka seared situation. There’s little thought for others on the road!!? Stop at the bus station and pickup another person. Bus full now I think..... maybe he’s heading to airport by the baggage he’s got! A wave down and now front is full too. We pass the station and I realise that could have cycled into town today!! As we progress along the coast I’m having flash backs to Sri Lanka and our journey to Messina wow Tb is 374Km! Cows are wandering along the road side, tagged but obviously free to roam and get hit by a marshrutka! We’re overtaking everyone, not always safely, so I close my eyes but no sleep as it’s stop start then bounce over the bumps! As we turn off in land I notice fields with women wiring picking something from small bushes, cows wandering other side of road.... I’m disorientated!! Unfortunately the marshrutka Has very dark windows and flying along too fast for pictures.
I get chatting to the couple beside who have been rather polite in their previous short answers, they’re here cycling the Silk Road and due to head to Poti tomorrow as their ferry to Odessa has been changed to there instead of batumi. He’s from Poland, her from Germany and they’ve been living in Aus. Im about to find out more about the Aus but when as suddenly as we took off we stop and driver gets out and opens the bonnet...... lights a cigarette and gets on the phone..... then a bus pulls up and the guys are taken off to continue to Poti. We stay on the edge of the road, all doors now also open. As I’m writing another marshrutka rocks up and everyone else is called off the bus. Get out to stretch my legs and there’s a place for me so in I hop and off again.... on a much more sedate drive!!! It’s midday. No falling asleep on this one, I’m at the edge of the seat with the step and door on my right!! It’s warm out! As we progress the farming is far more fertile here and there’s goats, chickens, pigs and cows avoiding being road kill! This has been an interesting journey. We have had 5 on and off, smelly men and local music to entertain. Over all I’m glad to be getting off and some circulation into my bottom. I’ve done 14,000 steps so far today so hoping to do the same again and early night and long sleep. Need to try dumplings and phkali (pomegranate topped veg paste?? Mc Donald’s at station it is in kutaisi and 1320 I’m on foot again to find Hotel and leave my bag! Changed mind. Off to sight see etc! Toilet and coffee and some of my cold breakfast.... it’s good cold!! Kutaisi and around |
I google map my route and it takes me down a muddy residential road. There’s people on it although the group of men ahead make me incertain. There’s a fresh smell of tar and the boy with them tell me there no through road ahead so back I go and turn a right! I do find myself frequently wandering into the high rise parts!! Despite thinking I’d avoid the busy main highway into the city, the pedestrian walk way is wide and pleasant to walk along. I’ve a bit of proclaimers and Kilmarnock blues setting my pace, small steps needed! So it’s a 1.2km climb by the looks of the sign post and my intended location shining in the sun! Typical my liquid shop on the way up is closed! However once round the right hand corner the climb flattens taking me through garden still laden with oranges and Sharon fruits! Sadly all out of reach. A taxi stops to offer me a lift. Cheeky *** it’s 100m round the corner!! Haha. I’m not silly!!
Get to the top and there’s a wedding going on and I can’t tell if we can enter the church yard so I notice the place opposite up on a ledge that will give me a bit of a view and also I can have a drink and plan my rest of day. There’s only 1 other person in the place and he’s sitting on the next table fiddling with his phone. I notice a train ticket in his wallet that’s very similar to London ones so maybe he’s from uk. Anyway no time to think as I order wine and water and turn round to find him gone. I’m having a quick vino when I notice a guy taking my picture. He had the camera of the person on the next table!! I double check it was his camera and he knew the person, he did! I laughed and they left. Not long after the guy returns and asks if I would like to join him on a tour to the monastery, as his guide had suggested I join him as they had space..... why not!! 1 photo and my day has rearranged again!! The guide is offering 2 options, a long and a short. The Long involves hot springs.... well why not, after all I did pack my swim stuff and a towel!!! I do still have to find my hotel but there’s no rush!! I’m guessing we’ll be finished about 6:30 or 7. I’ve a couple of places to see in the city but then I can always do them in the rain! I pour my water into my big water bottle and the wine into the plastic water bottle and we’re off. The driver has his daughter with him and checks I’ve seen the church. I admit to not and he insists I go in. An American woman now has come chatting and she joins me to go admire the view. We dodge past the wedding pictures and I picture the view and head back out. Again the driver asks (as he lights another cigarette) if I went inside. I admitted not to going in and was surly sent back to see inside. It’s nice but I’m not too big on churches so I wander round the outside again. I return and he seems happy enough to let us leave. Jakob, originally from Poland and now living in London, is doing a fantastic job of switching between Russian and English although one of the first questions we are asked is do we smoke pot, we both did a definite no! No more questions as to why he was offering! As we drive along his daughter (Maria) is very quiet but Jakob tells me he’s looking to but in London and had been looking at Barking as his money will not stretch too far so asking how it was. I suggest also Romford area on train lines and propose that he comes out to look. The Polish community is strong around here too. He wants space not location so thinks like me!!! He’s studying for his uk residency exam next weekend and has come away for the first time alone as he also has friends that say yes but do not commit. Hence he’s taken a guide every day but is seeing lots! I go to use my spare battery and it’s dead. Self discharged I assume as I ensured it was full before leaving. Grrrrr A explains as we wander through that his grandfather and father lived there and he was brought up in the monastery. At first I think he’s joking and he’s just very religious unlit we’re looking at a platform over the cliff face and he’s telling J he slept out there in the summer. As I stand around waiting for J and A to head into the church (I’ve covered my legs with J towel cloth from India but I’m not too bothered to go in! I notice how fast weddings are. There’s been 1 in and one undertaking currently and the next queuing outside!! She’s very pregnant!! We head off and back to the car, it needs to reverse out and A asks J to help. Can’t give good enough instruction to reverse out with a local guy helping out so A tells J he’s useless!! J also not regularly driving and is amused by this!! The roads are winding and I realise the mad driving ...suddenly I realise it’s also a right hand drive car! Gelarti roof is made of ceramic. Inside most famous mural of the Virgin Mary who’s eyes watch at all angles over you in the church. You can’t see them easily. Another quick wedding, driver (Archilli) is getting anxious to get J out...... but he’s happily taking pictures in front of the alter!!! I notice that people exiting the church / monastery kiss door frame, I’m not sure why!! A and J have rejoined me and we go over to the building opposite, he tells us that I’m the 14th Century a traveller who once went abroad to spreading the word in Greece about this place was killed for doing so as they wanted to keep it quiet and sacred. A tells us that Georgia is the site of religion and Jesus mother Mary was a Georgian. He’s so proud of his country. When we get into the rather bare building with a group of kids being taught something he explains that now there’s a wine cellar in the base of the current structure hence the air bricks! Yo the small staircase the roof contains a large telescope too. Out the side door and over to the next building to see where the grave for Tsar David 6th is. He points out the size of the stone and explains that he was 2m 20cm tall and broke stone he’s under himself. It’s cracked in the middle so I’m guessing that’s what he means but not sure! Think it’s lost a bit in translations!! More extreme driving back down the road. Even J taken aback and tries to slow him. Next is a quick stop next to my Hotel for the night for kachapuri. I suggest checking in and leaving u bag but he says it’s fine he knows the owner and it’ll be ok later. So off to eat and have a coffee at his place (airB&b) just down the road which also allows him to get some swim shorts for J. J and I get a catch up while he’s sorting stuff out and dropping off his daughter. Anyway it turns out that A took J and a Russian couple around yesterday who were staying at his guest house, and he didn’t say a word all day to any of them. The Russians checked out 2 days early to go to Batumi and insisted on money back, which he did. J told him he was silly! However today what a difference, he’s not stopped chatting!! Coffee /tea and food over then off to hot springs we go. It’s open til 2000 but he can negotiate longer. Not sure I’ll manage a very late night. He’s identified a place on the outskirts for dinner, I’m happy to go if we can get dumplings but I’m really not hungry!!! Let’s see after being in the hot springs. Hopefully I’ll not fall asleep!!
28500 steps. Legs will love the rest!! Have the trousers ready to change into on way out. It’s a 20m or so pool which has a (slippy) ramp into it but it’s warm!! There’s another 1 person doing laps and is only. The change into bikini was fine and I’m not as cold as I expect. Off to the warmth of the water though! We do a few lengths but quickly establish the the 5 spouts at the side are the incoming very warm water! It’s rather lovely!! A is not joining us, instead stands looking freezing (he’s only skin and bone). The other guy gets out and A offers to take some pictures, why not! Picture time over and a few ‘lovely’ comments as he wandered around snapping with our cameras! Then the questions start: are you single, why, what age are you, have you been married. He and J carry on in Russian, his English is either poor confidence or not a strong language for him, he tells J that is not be single here!! J admits to having had a fiancé but no longer ‘sad story’ and A suggests we should get together!! I’m starting to feel the cold, it’s about 1845 but A tells us it’s beautiful in the darkness so we decide to wait another 20 minutes. More chatting and the darkness has set in but is not getting any more black. There’s a stunning clear sky and so we decide to call it a night and face the getting out. The water running in is amazing but it’s not concentrated and the inlet temperature is similar to a hot tub so it’s a shame they don’t have a small ‘hot’ pool. Regardless we have had time in the water that cures everything!! At least it’s cured my sleepiness!! The change is quick but I’m not too cold surprisingly. Maybe Aunt Margaret’s advise of waiting in the hot water until you don’t feel the cold works in cooler water too! Never the less trousers and thermal top on and feeling cosy, and back to the car ready for the next hair raising road to the health spa up the road. Sairme and it’s health spa is a large complex. A explains that you can lose 10 year by staying here and drinking its water for a month along side blood corrections, and weight loss. Previous conversation with J he’d explained that it’s dangerous to drink some of the waters with wine as they can cause an interaction and make you very ill. Oh dear! Rooms in the hotel we can see above our heads with steps heading up the hill keeping you additionally fit, are €250 a night and there’s plenty of activity. It’s starting to spit.... start of the very wet night is a couple of hours early! There are 4 large ‘pump houses’, I’ve guessed that they provide water to the pools, but no.... they pump in the different waters. We take our bottles and head off on water tasting experience. There are health warnings about drinking too much and as a result there are 4 measures: 100mls, 150mls, 200mls and 250mls out of each of the taps ! It’s has a slightly fizzy texture and a bit sulphury, in number 1, another you can taste the iron compounds in it. A wishes us to fill up our bottles for the next day....I put In a 250mls (max measure) and refuse to let A push it again pointing that J needs his filled, but I’m not sure about it at all so deposit the left overs on the way back to the car, guess medicine is not always tasting good!! There’s loud music playing in the place above the car, so guessing some sort of party in their restaurant which A tells us is excellent. We head off again on the wet roads, there’s a few stomach turning moments, but A appears to have control enough and despite the tail swinging he carries on at this rate round the bendy road and back to Kutaisi. I snooze a bit to try to cover the sickness feeling sitting in the back. Thankfully in the dark the route seems faster, and quickly we arrive at our dinner recommendation. The rain is getting quite persistent and I’m feeling very sick, not too much food!! |
I get a message from J: Archili has slept in and it’s 10am and J is to waken him up. We’re very late for the start we’d planned!
Hope it’s not too rushed with wet roads and his driving!!! Although I’ve no idea what we have planned when I think about it!!! There was discussion of caves....!
I try to open the wine bottle but the cork is stuck fast and I fail so repack and ask J to bring me a bottle opener if he can!
I head down at 1030 and wait outside as instructed. A has told J he’s no idea about this hotel and it’s a cafe so I’m waiting on the road side as the rain restarts heavily. They make it at 1046 and later I find I have a message from J telling me A had lost his keys!! Never mind, the overhang balcony keeps me dry.
On the way A suddenly turns the car around saying the caves only open at 12 so he wants to show us a church. We turn back and spin into the small road on the left..... speeding through a church years with grave plots holding head stones with pictures of the deceased on. Never sped winding through one before. At the end we come to a new build church. He’s very proud of the typical Georgian style church and asks what we think is unusual about it. (J has to translate for me). It turns out the correct answer is its stone roof which is better for roofing and shows wealth which neither of us got correct. He’s told J that he knows nothing now about architecture to go with his inability to give instructions yesterday to reverse out.
Off to the caves in what’s now usual driving style for A however he’s very sedate when the fog settles in and it’s raining. Ah I like this driving!! We arrive at the destination and are the only people there. A buys the tickets and splits ticket bits A will keep for later trips I think so I don’t get the souvenir!! I try to find a postcard but fail. A big group of kids rock up..... and thankfully we head off with another couple before them. However not long after they run along beside us.
We’re taken through the dinosaur gates and up the hill to a building. Inside our guide explains they are original dinasaur foot prints, grass eaters then carnivores at the top. There’s a very dustinct ckaroty to this one or two set of foot prints up the rock. We climb up the pathway pursued by kids and out the top. There a wander through the park area in the rain with models of 4-5 dinosaurs that they believe were here then down to a view, which today is a lovely mist, and on into the caves. The lightening is lovely but there’s very little amazement to them. I’m disappointed but it’s better than getting wet today!! Out the other side within 10 mins we wander back to the entrance and visit the loos with a little co cern for more holes in ground. But this is totally the opposite, the seat is very high!!! Refunding A he shows us his bottle opener I’d asked J to bring. We decide to open the wine which is a bit of a test for J too! Success as A tries to turn the car he puts some in my empty small water bottle and A is off before I can safely ( with his driving) empty it also. There J great at something!! . So drinking out the bottle it is. It’s a nice wine and easy to enjoy. We’re heading back to Kutaisi for dumplings! Back to the main square and to a restaurant there. In the restaurant A orders15 dumplings as J eats lots!!!
I’ve not found postcards yet for Alice, and J wishes done too so A asks for a shop selling them and gets directions round the corner.... we’re off at Georgian waking speed (similar to their driving!). We head into a mall type place and are directed around it but alas it’s a paper card shop but no post cards, we try a couple of kiosk and booth places but to no avail so only hope now is airport……
Hope it’s not too rushed with wet roads and his driving!!! Although I’ve no idea what we have planned when I think about it!!! There was discussion of caves....!
I try to open the wine bottle but the cork is stuck fast and I fail so repack and ask J to bring me a bottle opener if he can!
I head down at 1030 and wait outside as instructed. A has told J he’s no idea about this hotel and it’s a cafe so I’m waiting on the road side as the rain restarts heavily. They make it at 1046 and later I find I have a message from J telling me A had lost his keys!! Never mind, the overhang balcony keeps me dry.
On the way A suddenly turns the car around saying the caves only open at 12 so he wants to show us a church. We turn back and spin into the small road on the left..... speeding through a church years with grave plots holding head stones with pictures of the deceased on. Never sped winding through one before. At the end we come to a new build church. He’s very proud of the typical Georgian style church and asks what we think is unusual about it. (J has to translate for me). It turns out the correct answer is its stone roof which is better for roofing and shows wealth which neither of us got correct. He’s told J that he knows nothing now about architecture to go with his inability to give instructions yesterday to reverse out.
Off to the caves in what’s now usual driving style for A however he’s very sedate when the fog settles in and it’s raining. Ah I like this driving!! We arrive at the destination and are the only people there. A buys the tickets and splits ticket bits A will keep for later trips I think so I don’t get the souvenir!! I try to find a postcard but fail. A big group of kids rock up..... and thankfully we head off with another couple before them. However not long after they run along beside us.
We’re taken through the dinosaur gates and up the hill to a building. Inside our guide explains they are original dinasaur foot prints, grass eaters then carnivores at the top. There’s a very dustinct ckaroty to this one or two set of foot prints up the rock. We climb up the pathway pursued by kids and out the top. There a wander through the park area in the rain with models of 4-5 dinosaurs that they believe were here then down to a view, which today is a lovely mist, and on into the caves. The lightening is lovely but there’s very little amazement to them. I’m disappointed but it’s better than getting wet today!! Out the other side within 10 mins we wander back to the entrance and visit the loos with a little co cern for more holes in ground. But this is totally the opposite, the seat is very high!!! Refunding A he shows us his bottle opener I’d asked J to bring. We decide to open the wine which is a bit of a test for J too! Success as A tries to turn the car he puts some in my empty small water bottle and A is off before I can safely ( with his driving) empty it also. There J great at something!! . So drinking out the bottle it is. It’s a nice wine and easy to enjoy. We’re heading back to Kutaisi for dumplings! Back to the main square and to a restaurant there. In the restaurant A orders15 dumplings as J eats lots!!!
I’ve not found postcards yet for Alice, and J wishes done too so A asks for a shop selling them and gets directions round the corner.... we’re off at Georgian waking speed (similar to their driving!). We head into a mall type place and are directed around it but alas it’s a paper card shop but no post cards, we try a couple of kiosk and booth places but to no avail so only hope now is airport……